'89 supra turbo race car build up

[porsche6016]

it was smoking reall bad so i changed the oil for the 3rd time after the head change, flushed the collant, addednew coolant, new alternator positioning bolt and wa-la, it stopped smoking real bad. we pulled it out of the garage again to check for leaks and stuff better...

on the way out of the garage





1 major oil leak, 1 minor oil leak and OMG WTF FUEL IS on top the manifold!!!!!
this point we said fuck it and left it out side and than painted joe's roof (http://www.mdstreetscene.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11908&page=16)....

after we painted the roof we pulled the supra back in and tore it apart once again to fix the fuel leak off the fuel rail and injector #4


on sat night after i came home from seeing my g/f in philly, i started cleaning up the wiring inside and tracing the leaks... the major seems to be from the dip stick and the minor one is a cracked hose from the block to the intake valve cover... waiting on a new hose and i'll fire it up again and check for more leaks...

 

[porsche6016]

its leaking fuel still off the fuel rail near the fire wall :bored: and one of the oil leaks are still bad :rant:. and when its running for a lil bit, it starts leaking coolant back somewhere by the firewall :rant:

the old and the new oil line


oil line in place


alternator back on and everything in place


first actual mod for the car :clap: new cone filter with opening at the top
the old one


old and new


new one installed


grill/nose peice on


:afraid7: bumper on and it actually looks like a car again :bud:

 

[porsche6016]

some more shots of the dash coming along and a test fit....

 

[Supra_Villan]

what do u mean deck?? we scrapped both and than hit both lightly with a die grinder. and where do u cut the front timing plate??

thanks man.

and yea, next time we tour canada with the porsche club to mont treblant and mosport, i'll bring my paint gun and supplies lol

very very BAD idea, a metal head gasket needs a VERY SMOOTH, FLAT surface in order to seal correctly, and it will need to be taken to a reputable machinist with the proper equipment(far, far, beyond a gasket scraper and grinder) to do what you need, all the smoke is your unsealed head gasket, could you get pics of what your oil looks like? maybe the underside of the oil cap or a freshly pulled dipstick

kinda new to the supra thing, mainly work with porsches and i do alot of stereos....

the timing cover plate is the metal peice behind the cams?

and does that hurt anything if u don't run that or where would u cut it so it doen't lift the HG?

some more shots of the dash coming along and a test fit....

yes it is the metal piece behind the cams, if the head is machined(in your case IT WILL HAVE TO BE) a certain amount of material is taken off of the head since the timing cover is attached to the head and rests on top of the block along with the head, then it will have to be machined to the appropriate thickness also so it isn't sitting higher than the rest of the head surface, causing it not to seal

sorry to be so negative....but on the positive side, very pretty! your paint skills look awsome, along with your interior/fiberglass work it's all very nice, but a properly sealed gasket is much more essential to a race car than fiberglass door panels

 

[Supra_Villan]

one more thing, not having the head/block machined to match the metal head gasket can ABSOLUTELY SCREW your compression ratio

 

[porsche6016]

i see, i guess we'll see what happens. thanks for the info. the smoke stopped though once i flushed the coolant system and changed the oil again. it is running very smoothly but just has a few leaks to fix. i'm going to get a compression check, make sure everything is dialed in and than dyno it for a base run... it snowed yesterday and than the heater ran out of kerosene so i'll mess with it tomorrow

the shifter pieces

the new and the old

i also replaced the screws or should i SCREW that was holding the actual shifter in with 4 bolts....
looks like i'll have plenty of time to work on the dash this weekend since this damn weather :rant: instead of staying up with my g/f in philly at her dorm....

after leaks and dash is done, getting it caged and than painted, than dyno base run. after that than suspension, fmic and custom exhaust, and a bunch of other things down the road as money comes in

 

[aye mate]

Is that a MD plate I see on the trailer? I take it E-Burg is Eldersburg? Nice build so far.

 

[porsche6016]

Is that a MD plate I see on the trailer? I take it E-Burg is Eldersburg? Nice build so far.

yea. where are you from??

 

[aye mate]

yea. where are you from??

hehe Mount Airy.

 

[JimR]

.............
yes it is the metal piece behind the cams, if the head is machined(in your case IT WILL HAVE TO BE) a certain amount of material is taken off of the head since the timing cover is attached to the head and rests on top of the block along with the head, then it will have to be machined to the appropriate thickness also so it isn't sitting higher than the rest of the head surface, causing it not to seal
............

Hold on a moment! Lets get our names straight. There are two separate pieces here, and they have both been called the "timing cover" at one point or another. The piece attached to the head behind the cams is more accurately called the "No 2 timing chain cover", and the piece attached to the block (yes the block, not the head) is called the "timing gear case sub assembly".

It is this piece that needs to be bolted to the block if you get the surface of the block machined. You do not need to worry about the No 2 timing chain cover when machining the head, there should be more than enough clearance between it and the Timing Gear Case Sub Assembly.

Have a look at this diagram, it will show you what we're talking about: http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/EPC/291420/catalog.aspx?F=1106&P=1

 

[Supra_Villan]

he's got it, yeah, that thing