Thats kinda off topic. i have 2years experience in automotive and get help from a fully licensed mechanic. Why would I pay a shop if I am capable of doing it myself.
89 Supra rebuild help please won't rev past 3,000 Slow revs.
- Thread starter Raggan
- Start date
Because apparently you can't do a fuel pressure test do to a lack of a tool. So your solution is to drop the tank and replace the pump. It doesn't make any sense to do that without some data that the pump is bad.
I am upgrading to a walbro 255 anyway so why not kill 2 birds with one stone? I'm pretty sure i know whats wrong with the car now anyways it has a afm sensor ending in 42011 and it requires a 42020.
Did a fuel pressure test. Tested fine at idle....but when you step on the gas hard the pressure was dropping from 35-40 to 10 psi. I changed out the pump haven't yet put the tank back in I figured I would change the fuel filter and re do the differential.....and then........the two front diff bolts closest to the front of the car are spinning the captive nut's broke off inside the frame...=( Now i'm going to cut a slot and put a normal nut in there or I might just get two studs welded in and just put a two nuts on to hold the diff.
Cut open the fuel filter when you get the chance, just curious as to whether you had a clogged fuel filter or not :3.
3p141592654;2044796 said:
[video=youtube;KCfYWELLwZY]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KCfYWELLwZY[/video]
:icon_bigg
Well installed a new fuel pump, redid all turbo gaskets seals etc, and the intake side aswell readjusted wastegate checked intercooler lines,fixed all oil leaks,tried a manufactured AFM and many other ones.....recalibrated the TPS checked and replaced all vacuum lines and yet the car bogs when you press the gas hard and sometimes you can tap rev it up to 3000. I'm about ready to just give up and sell it as is....tested every sensor also tried 3 different ECU's
Raggan;2045458 said:
Did you resolve that problem? A drop in fuel pressure during a snap throttle test indicates a restriction in the supply side.
I gotta say, for someone with two years experience in automotive repair you sure have a strange way of approaching things...
fuck this forum i can't say a thing on here without being flamed the supra crowd seems like a bunch of know it all assholes anyways. There has not been one thing posted that has been helpful in the slightest bit so don't tell me about my experiences. I don't have a full fuel pressure kit and I don't feel like borrowing the guy's at the machine shop and why the fuck would i pressure test a brand new motor that isn't leaking ????? say something helpful for once and quit telling me about my goddamn experiences. Even my mechanic with 20 years experience is saying your a bnunch of useless twats anyways so fuck off and have a nice day cause im done with this useless forum
The line coming out of the fuel tank could be bent causing a restriction.
A simple comprression test could reveal a problem with the build I.e.valves out of whack from timing being off or not having corrrect clearences. Normally you have to seat the rings on a new rebuild but you havn't reported smoke from the tailpipe.
A simple comprression test could reveal a problem with the build I.e.valves out of whack from timing being off or not having corrrect clearences. Normally you have to seat the rings on a new rebuild but you havn't reported smoke from the tailpipe.
Okay so I just did a compression test with the engine warmed up. The results were 180 across all 6 cylinders.
I have to borrow a fuel tester again. Tried a different TPS mounted to the throttle body already same issue. I have this problem near the ECU one of the main grounds (from the manifold) the smaller diameter brown wire with a blue tracer splices into a solid white wire at the ECU and then goes to nothing ? im confused it's not showing where it goes on any wiring diagrams.
I have some better pictures.
You can see the smaller ground from the manifold taps into that white and grey wires, but continues on into nothing it was just taped off and the guy I bought the car off couldn't get it to run right either.
You can see the smaller ground from the manifold taps into that white and grey wires, but continues on into nothing it was just taped off and the guy I bought the car off couldn't get it to run right either.
Okay so i did another fuel pressure test its fine at idle again with and without vacum its 30-40 psi. When i give it hard gas it goes down below 10 psi and then if i hold the gas down it slowly builds to about 20 psi. I jumped b+ and fp and it seems to slightly improve but its still cutting out at 3000 rpm.
That wire looks like it goes to the O2 sensor. It wouldn't cause your problem. I would recommend doing a end to end check from the ecu to all the components wire by wire for continuity and shorts to ground. For the fuel, get under the car and inspect the fuel line from out of the tank to the rail for kinks bends and twists or someplace that could be crushed.