89 7MGTE | time machine restoration, "build".Highly motivated with no time or energy

[bandit1730]

This much "oil" came out of the GE today:



Took off glove compartment, computers, fan, radiator & hoses, intake, canister, drained fluids (transmission, coolant & engine. Still need to drain PS). Then it got dark and damn mosquitoes were having a blast at my expense.

 

[bandit1730]

If you dont want to smooth the turbo block surface so you can go mhg, AND dont want to deal with higher compression/ cam timing issues assiciated with a composite gasket and loss of deck height, you might as well throw away the block. If you build up the na motor, you cant bump the boost up much because it's already a high compression motor.
The pressure plate is more critical than the disc. You can throw 400hp at a factory disc, as long as you have a strong pressure plate to keep it from slipping. If you have a good disc, the check www.clutchnet.com for a good upgraded p.p.

No mods for the walbro. The double resistor issue is with Denso mkIV pumps.

Surface turned out to be very good (RA around 30). Got a larger caliper and got 198.00 mm on block. Keep getting mixed readings on head so I will just go with machinist #s of 115.93mm.


As I see it, I have two options on HG. Either Cometic (0.075 inch = 1.90 mm) or Titan 2.0 mm (please advice on this).

Will buy the Walbro and the Pulley kit from Aaron at "DM"

http://store.driftmotion.com/static/i-walbro255pump84-92supra.php

http://store.driftmotion.com/static/i-7m3pcpulleykit.php

Note: There is also a group buy for AEM fuel pump. Anyone with a review on this pump?
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?180120-**AEM-High-Flow-In-Tank-Fuel-Pump-GROUP-BUY-E85-and-GASOLINE!!!**

 

[supraguy@aol]

You're splitting hairs about the gasket. Either one will do you just as well.
As for pumps, I'd say go with Walbro. It's reliable, and it's cheap. Nothing wrong with the AEM,
though one person did mention that it didn't quite fit the stock pump hanger.

 

[Backlash2032]

I should have used a 2.0 mm gasket, and I went with a 1.4 I believe. Boosted my compression to 9:1 and it flew! Until I swapped the motor into another car with another wiring harness with a whole rats nest of issues...

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[GrimJack]

Thinner gasket gives you more power off boost, and limits how much boost you can run. Thicker gasket impacts off boost power, but allows you to push more boost. With that in mind, the .1 mm difference between the two might make a measurable difference, but you'll never notice it yourself. Titan gasket IS a Cometic, so literally no difference in the quality of the part.

The only complaint I've heard about the walbro pumps over the years is that they can be louder than stock. I haven't used the AEM that Sumeet is selling here, but he's a stand up guy, he'll be able to tell you if it has any caveats. I'm using the Aeromotive Stealth now, which is a bit more expensive, flows a bit more, and is damn near silent.

I've used the pulley kit, it's a quality piece.

 

[bandit1730]

Ok.. thanks to all for advice given. Will get the 2.0mm MHG, Spec Clutch and Walbro or AEM or Aromotive FP.
Tomorrow will continue with the GE removal from rust free shell if not too humid (it was crazy humid today here in Miami).
Also, will search the classifieds and start looking for a set of 550cc injectors as I've seen many members upgrading from 550 to higher flow capacity.
The turbo/LEX/550 upgrade will be done after I'm positive the car has no issues running stock setup (well not 100% stock since I'm upgrading exhaust to full 3", going light weight on: DS, Flywheel, crank pulley and misc pulley set).

Question in the FP
Do I have to run a FPR with the Walbro, AEM or Aeromotive since I will be breaking-in the engine on stock setup?

Question on Intercooler
Given that I won't seek more than whatever extra HP is gained with planned setup, can I keep the stock intercooler or do you recommend a 3" upgrade? I was looking at this one on eBay (size wise since I don't want to relocate oil cooler).
http://www.ebay.com/itm/130829795050?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

Question on turbo: I've been told by some performance shops here in Miami (Mike Turbo & Worldwide Turbo injection, that I'm better off with a T61 new turbo vs the 57 trim upgrade. The reason behind the recommendation is that only the compressor wheel is upgraded (the turbine wheel remains stock). They have a Garret T61 and there is a T61 direct bolt-on sold by CXRacing as well (the only modification will be the oil cooling line)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/T61-Turbo-Charger-Oil-Kit-Toyota-Supra-MK3-MK-3-7MGTE-Upgrade-CT26-Bolt-on-/180783087039?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2a1782fdbf&vxp=mtr

Any opinions on this turbo topic?

 

[Backlash2032]

If you bypass the j tube restriction in the fuel return line, theres no need to run an afpr running a walbro. I'm doing it right now on my DD.

An intercooler would probably be a smart idea, especially with the 57 trim.

Don't bother getting a bigger turbo if you're trying to stay mostly stock

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[bandit1730]

I though I post some pictures of a FEL-PRO "RA" tool I took today while at the machine shop picking up the block.





Machinist says a good way to find out is to glide your nail and listen for sound. A guiro/rattling noise means block is not up to specs for MHG. No sound, then is good. Also, it should feel like close to gliding it on a piece of glass for smoothness.

 

[bandit1730]

If you bypass the j tube restriction in the fuel return line, theres no need to run an afpr running a walbro. I'm doing it right now on my DD.

An intercooler would probably be a smart idea, especially with the 57 trim.

Don't bother getting a bigger turbo if you're trying to stay mostly stock

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Staying "upgraded stock". The upgrade on the turbo/lex/550 should be a good mate for the 3" full exhaust upgrade. My goal is to upgrade all up-gradable components while retaining stock configuration regardless of HP increase. I guess it will be safe to say that I'm looking for GT performance while staying 100% OEM ECU managed (no piggyback/component relocation or mods other than AFPR if really needed and a wide band sensor).

 

[JDMMA70]

If you want to keep the stock appearance the best solution is to get an IC kit that was made as a bolt on with stock piping. Spearco, HKS, Cartech, AMS. Those will give you a better core while allowing you if you choose to keep the stock appearance and use stock piping. Ive never used Cometic HG personally, and I am using an HKS on my motor. I can say the quality between the two seem very close, ive had the two gaskets side by side. Im sure someone can chime in on the quality between the two.

 

[supraguy@aol]

Machinist says a good way to find out is to glide your nail and listen for sound. A guiro/rattling noise means block is not up to specs for MHG. No sound, then is good. Also, it should feel like close to gliding it on a piece of glass for smoothness.

Hmm. Sounds vaguely familiar...

Well, if you can run the edge of your fingernail over the surface and not hear/feel it, then id say you're ok.

Never seen on of those "RA comparator" tools, very cool.
LOL at the belt sander criteria.

PS- Don't go with a lightened crank pulley.

 

[bandit1730]

PS- Don't go with a lightened crank pulley.

Why is that??? I already bought it (Aluminum crank pulley).

Went through your whole build thread last night. It took me near 4 hours to go over all 535 posts. Nicely logged and presented.

Some members have reported fitment issues with the Ronnie K front bushings set, but the threads are a couple of years old. By now, I suppose Ronnie might be producing a new version. Did you find any fitment issues with your set?

Where did you buy your Spec 2 set? DM doesn't carry it.

Update on my time machine restoration:

Waiting on parts from Curt Aigner at Elmhurst Toyota and still pulling out the GE engine (just need to remove front bumper for the crane positioning).

Going to stay with stock turbo and injectors for now as originally planned at least for the break-in period. That leaves me with the fuel pump dilemma. I was thinking to run dual OEM pums with dual resistors. Use just one FP with OEM setup, but if I wanted to do the turbo/LEX/550 upgrade, I will just have to activate the 2nd FP (if not upgrading, it will be a backup just in case the primary FP fails)

 

[Backlash2032]

I would feel much better running a single pump. For this reason alone.

If one pump on a single pump setup fails, the car doesn't run.

If one pump on a twin pump setup fails, the car runs lean and melts a piston.

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[IJ.]

I would feel much better running a single pump. For this reason alone.

If one pump on a single pump setup fails, the car doesn't run.

If one pump on a twin pump setup fails, the car runs lean and melts a piston.

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My take on this is you build a fuel system that will support the required HP then double it, if a pump fails it won't melt the engine and the 2nd pump assures nothing is ever running on the ragged edge, I bring the 2nd pump in only during boost using a PWM controller so you don't get a pressure spike that's difficult to tune around, I also PWM pump #1 so it's silent at idle and cruise.

 

[bandit1730]

The more I research and dig for FP options, the more confusing it gets. :cry:

Tech question:

A) Is it really absolutely necessary to replace "Freeze Plugs" on a FL car??? (I didn't replace them. They all looked fine).

B) Machinist told me I could use new OEM head bolts with the 2.0 MGH given that I won't try to go over 350 HP. He just told me to make sure I use the proper torque, lubricant and to tap the block holes. This question is because I already have a new set of OEM bolts along with a new OEM HG that I won't be using now.

 

[IJ.]

A) They're 20+ years old, it's what you can't see that's the problem...

B) Your machinist is correct if you have a new set of bolts there's no reason not to use them, they're a lot better quality than people realise.

 

[GrimJack]

The aluminum crank pulley is a bad idea because the stock unit isn't just a pulley - it's a damper. On a long crank, like ours, you need a damped pulley on the end.

As for the dual pump debate, the chances of losing a piston due to pump failure is pretty damn insignificant. Anyone going into dual pump territory should be running a standalone, with a fuel pressure sensor feeding into the ECU with a failover that puts you into a limp mode so you can at least drive home.

 

[Zumtizzle]

You won't be able to fit two stock pumps into the Hanger.....

 

[#04]

The aluminum crank pulley is a bad idea because the stock unit isn't just a pulley - it's a damper. On a long crank, like ours, you need a damped pulley on the end.

.

In addition to this^

I had advice that if it does not have a steel centre sleeve, and is all alum, then DO NOT USE...

 

[Backlash2032]

Grim and IJ., you both bring up good points with dual pump setups. Both of your ideas would create a system that would run just fine on a single pump. I was more of referring to the OP, because he's simply running lex afm and 550s, with a 57 trim. Maybe a tune lol. But all he really needs for that setup is a Walbro 255 or an equivelant pump. At this level, I don't think theres a need for dual pumps.

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