87 7MGE to 7MGTE build LOT OF PICS

[supra1008]

I wasn't going to post this, but then I'm bored at work and took a lot of pics during the project. I know how we all LOVE pics here so I thought I'd post them up. Enjoy! Lmk what you think

This is my sisters supra. We bought it back in 2002. It's an 87 Supra NA 5spd. We are the 2nd owners. It was bone stock when we bought it. Didn't even have the spoiler and had the stock radio. We both learned how to drive manual in this car. Lol. Been wanting to go turbo on this for awhile now. It's been god awful slow for too long now. We thought we'd finally fix it up.

This pic is from a while ago right after I put some tein ss coilovers on it.

I was at a junk yard in nj and came across a supra w 91-92 5 spoke wheels. Got them on the spot!! $25/wheel!! Worked out nice cause the sawblades needed new tires badly!!! Wrapped them in some bridgestone potenza pole positions. Handles and drives like a dream now!! Even in the rain or light snow!!

I got a turbo motor with rod knock off a friend. It actually only had under 50k miles on this but the turbo blew so all the oil went into the ic piping. He gave me an extra crank. I took it to the garage and ripped it apart, took it to the machine shop. Ordered some .020 over NPR pistons and clevite .010 under bearings and a lot more parts from Driftmotion. Thanks Aaron!

---------- Post added at 11:17 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:11 AM ----------

Pics.

When I just got it on the stand.

took off the head

 

[dmp316]

very nice build man. Keep up the good work

 

[supra1008]

After getting the block and head back from the machinist. NPR pistons. Stock rods. ARP rod bolts and head studs, clevite bearings, 6m crank micropolished.

---------- Post added at 12:17 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:14 PM ----------

very nice build man. Keep up the good work

Thanks. Will try!

 

[supra1008]

added some color.

HKS stopper 2.0!

ARP headstuds

got head? Stripped, decked, tanked and resealed.

 

[supra1008]

Water pump, timing belt rear cover. Actually had to send it back cause the guy didn't deck it with the block. *sigh*

polished stock cams

.

Still have a lot more pics. I'll let you guys catch up for a bit. lol

 

[mecevans]

Your not using a MHG right? That surface finish does not look good enough to seal one...

 

[Moy]

Yeah when I saw that head gasket surface I'm like "please tell me he's not using a..." then saw it "yep, that sucks"

That surface finish is NOT smooth enough for a MHG, a composite type maybe, because the material would partially fill in the ridges, but for a MHG you want an almost mirror like finish

 

[supra1008]

I was afraid of that. ^ some said I'd be ok. I didn't think so. WTF!

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So either I have to take it apart and get a mirror finish or just get a cometic or something. :-/

---------- Post added at 02:48 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:48 PM ----------

Any body wanna buy a hks stopper? No miles on it lol!

 

[Moy]

even a cometic probably wouldn't seal. you'd have to use a stock type gasket. or take it all apart and have the headgasket surfaces fixed. that current surface is super rough

 

[supra1008]

WTF! I guess I'm taking this shit apart then and getting it machined with a mirror finish. Good thing I got a thick enough hg. Atleast I'm doing it now rather than getting bhg, fking everything up and having to spend even more money and time.

 

[mecevans]

Getting machine work is like getting your hair cut. If you dont explicitly tell them what you want dont be disapointed by the results.

Your instructions with that gasket will have the RA requirements. Go back there and tell them to do it right or stay away and take it to someone that can.

 

[BrandonW]

i saw the surface too and was like wtf nooo

same thing happened to me when i had mine machined but they forgot the rear timing case and when i sent the block back for them to redo the machining with rear timing case on the block the surface was smoother and the ra was good enough it came out to ra of 23

tyler might be able to help you out i got help from him to see what my ra was and to see what hg thickness i needed, he measured that stuff for me

and make sure none of those rivets touch any surface they were close on mine but they just cleared

 

[leebizz]

why cant all threads be like this...

 

[supra1008]

^ like what? Lots of pics or idiots tryin to put a motor together and failing? Lol

 

[supra1008]

yea tyler saw it. He said the same thing. I'm just going to take it apart and get the mirror finish just to be safe. I'd rather spend $300 now than have to spend $1000 later.

i saw the surface too and was like wtf nooo

same thing happened to me when i had mine machined but they forgot the rear timing case and when i sent the block back for them to redo the machining with rear timing case on the block the surface was smoother and the ra was good enough it came out to ra of 23

tyler might be able to help you out i got help from him to see what my ra was and to see what hg thickness i needed, he measured that stuff for me

and make sure none of those rivets touch any surface they were close on mine but they just cleared

 

[supra1008]

Ra required is under 30.

 

[BrandonW]

when we checked the ra on the head i got from dm, it was 8 i was like well im not even touching that lol

 

[supra1008]

Well since I have all these pics I'll post the rest anyway. Lol.

upgraded oil pump from Driftmotion

new ct26 57-trim with polished compressor housing and ceramic coated exhaust housing.

 

[spencyg]

You can probably fix the HG surface on the block yourself without doing much disassembly. If it were me, I'd go find yourself a place that sells cold rolled (CR) steel. Buy a 10" long bar measuring maybe 2"x1". Deburr the cut edges so you basically have a very flat piece of rigid steel. Use that as your sanding block, and buy a bunch of different grits of wet/dry sanding paper (quality stuff). Use a skim of oil, and starting at around 320g, work the surface down. You can probably do this with the pistons still in the block and the oil ports in the block going to the head being temporarily plugged). You should be able to cut those ridges down in short order. Don't do any more than necessary, and work up to maybe 800g paper. Always use the oil to keep the paper lubricated and make sure you keep the sanding block very stable on top of the engine casting. I've done this a couple times and it works fine...actually gets a better surface in the end than what the machine shop would send back. After you're done, make sure everything is very clean, cycle the pistons up and down with lots of oil in the bores, ragging everything out as you go. Don't forget to unplug the oil galleys in the block top after you're done!

Not the end of the world here...far from it actually.

SG in NE.

 

[supra1008]

Ok so here's what's been going on with this project. I completely disassembled the motor down to bare block took me little over an hour. Took the block and head to a different shop cause the original shop doesn't have a machine to do a better finish. Pshh. Not gonna go there anymore. Got the head and block back. It looks much better now. This past weekend I put it back on the stand and assembled most of it back together. Here are pics.