Im getting a 86-88 na supra and down the road i wanna swap in a turbo motor. Now for the price should i just go head and swap in a 1jz or go 7mgte. I will be having a shop doing the swap as this is my first rodeo with motor swaps... And please no flaming saying use the search bar. How is the support for the 1j these days?
86-88 na motor swap
- Thread starter sean1197
- Start date
lol this is kind of an iffy subject as most people are completely one way or the other. With that being said its your car so do what makes you happy. Also stating what type of performance you want or what budget you would like to stick to might help people give you a good response. Also you can always keep your motor and go na-t.
4k is my limit for the stock swap.thats including motor trans and everything else and installation.My horsepower goal down the road is around 500 to 600.I would go na-t but i heard its a pain and is alot easier to dump a gte in it. I plan on getting most of my parts for the swap myself and have someone i know thats good with yotas do it for me
If you're having a shop swap in a JDM motor then just go with a 1JZGTE. A JDM 7MGTE will need to have the head gasket upgraded to an HKS metal gasket immediately (the head gasket is a major issue on 7M engines, and you're taking a big risk swapping in a JDM 7MGTE without doing the headgasket upgrade). I don't know what shops charge for good quality motor swaps in your area, but $4K is going to be cutting it close for any turbo engine swap to be done by a shop.
If you can wait and save an extra $1000, get the 2JZGTE. You have the best of both worlds; the torque of a 3 liter and the updated technology of the JZ series.
If you can wait and save an extra $1000, get the 2JZGTE. You have the best of both worlds; the torque of a 3 liter and the updated technology of the JZ series.
1. Are you new to sport cars?
2. Dont let anyone tell you what to do on your car, EVER. its your car and your the one paying for it.
3. na-t is cheaper but it has some problems.
4. Since your goal is 500 to 600, i would recommend the 1jz. Its reliable and cheaper and the modifying parts are cheaper then the 2jz as well.
2. Dont let anyone tell you what to do on your car, EVER. its your car and your the one paying for it.
3. na-t is cheaper but it has some problems.
4. Since your goal is 500 to 600, i would recommend the 1jz. Its reliable and cheaper and the modifying parts are cheaper then the 2jz as well.
I'm balls deep in my 1J swap and I would advise you save up a little more green. I think I'm up to around 6k (includes a grand for the car), as I sit right now, but I have done every minute of work myself... Now I am replacing more things than most people probably would... Or would need to, but there at so many unknowns that pop up... And you don't wanna have like 75% of your parts acquired and realize you need another 2Gs to keep the ball rolling (especially if your car is under someone else's roof).
A little more info: Stock twins, stainless y-pipe, 3" stainless exhaust, harness conversion by none other than Tweak'd Perfomance/Phoenix Tuning, lightweight driveshaft, 3.91 LSD, R154, 3" FMIC. Re-working power steering and brakes absorbed some extra funds as well.
Just my experience.
- Joe
Sent from my iPhone
A little more info: Stock twins, stainless y-pipe, 3" stainless exhaust, harness conversion by none other than Tweak'd Perfomance/Phoenix Tuning, lightweight driveshaft, 3.91 LSD, R154, 3" FMIC. Re-working power steering and brakes absorbed some extra funds as well.
Just my experience.
- Joe
Sent from my iPhone