800hp daily?
- Thread starter kawon16
- Start date
a 2jz
---------- Post added at 02:11 AM ---------- Previous post was at 02:10 AM ----------
look through some 800hp build threads using them as a guideline.. build it for 800hp then tune it down
---------- Post added at 02:11 AM ---------- Previous post was at 02:10 AM ----------
look through some 800hp build threads using them as a guideline.. build it for 800hp then tune it down
kawon16;1529609 said:
you will need deep pockets heres a link check it out read threw it....has all the parts #s and wiring info and were to get the 2jz
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?66984-2JZGTE-MKIII-Swap-Info
^ my bad poodles is right those mods will be expensive but this list will help you get the idea of what will need to be done...
kawon16;1529623 said:
you know you need to replace the stock internals.. you know what internals are.. so search around for forged internals.
go to the vendor section on here and go to driftmotion they will have all the gasket piston rods ect you will need....be ready to spend like 15k if your doing the swap yourself maybe more if you have a shop to do it....dont forget you will need to upgrade suspension and defiently check out another vendor arizona perfromance and buy there willowood brake kit i think its like 1500 but well worth it with that kind of power......
ForcedTorque;1529727 said:
Just because it has been done, which it has, does not mean that's the reliable, conservative design, smart way to build it. I can't imagine there is anybody knowledgeable about this who would disagree with that.
Ok, I'm going to chime in here.
The advice you've gotten so far seems more than a little scattered, however, keep in mind the vast majority of the membership has seen this kind of question many times, and seen it result in a 600hp build getting complete... well, probably never. I can think of *one* instance in the last decade where this happened.
Anyway, some points to keep in mind:
The advice you've gotten so far seems more than a little scattered, however, keep in mind the vast majority of the membership has seen this kind of question many times, and seen it result in a 600hp build getting complete... well, probably never. I can think of *one* instance in the last decade where this happened.
Anyway, some points to keep in mind:
- An 800hp engine needs an 800hp chassis, steering, suspension, tires, and brakes. Skimp on any of these, and you're simply building a coffin with pretty paint.
- More importantly, and 800hp car needs an 800hp DRIVER. For 99.9% of the guys out there, this is too much. I've taken people for rides in my car at low boost - 400hp - and had them freak out.
- 800hp without traction control is a quick way to go through tires without going anywhere. Hell, 400hp without traction control is the same beast.
- As for actually making that kind of power level, it's really quite basic. You need enough fuel and air going into the engine, and you need the air to be a cold as possible. For the fuel side, you're going to need big everything - pump, fpr, lines, injectors... for the air side, you're going to need similar bits - big turbo, better intercooler, IC pipes, etc. Then you'll need some kind of computer to control it all, a bunch of gauges to make sure it doesn't all go pear shaped, and unless you plan on replacing the engine really quick, you'll have to open it up and mess with the internals.
^Word. The driver mod is the most important mod you can perform.
As for the rest, you know what they say, if you have to ask.....
500whp is MORE than enough for any street driven car.
As for the rest, you know what they say, if you have to ask.....
500whp is MORE than enough for any street driven car.
Eh, 600HP out of a stock 2J long block is doable. And as Grimjack said, it's completely stupid as it's worthless on the street.
BIG turbo, gt45ish
Big IC
Big TB
Big exhaust
Big fuel system
Big exhaust
for starters, add to this good rods and pistons, cams, valves, springs, port work, the very best engine management you can buy and someone competent to assemble and tune it and it's doable.
Then go through the rest of the drivetrain with the same attention to detail as a genuine 800rwhp will tear up any substandard parts.
As for reliability.... yeah ok, a 3.0L I-6 making that sort of power is going to be running a thin ring pack to prevent flutter and they wear out quickly so you're going to be dealing with blowby issues in a short amount of time as a DD.
Be prepared for regular maintenance as you're building a race engine, a few semi long drives getting on it hard is equal to a year’s racing.
To address the “driver mod” part of the thread, I’m an ok peddler have been around fast cars for 30+ years now and anything over 400rwhp on street tires has the potential to kill you dead in a blink of an eye, but it’s something you learn by doing and if you have some respect for the power and build up to it and with modern electronics it can be drivable.
I have data logs showing wheel spin at 100mph on a dry road with 285/35/18's and 500rwhp.
Big IC
Big TB
Big exhaust
Big fuel system
Big exhaust
for starters, add to this good rods and pistons, cams, valves, springs, port work, the very best engine management you can buy and someone competent to assemble and tune it and it's doable.
Then go through the rest of the drivetrain with the same attention to detail as a genuine 800rwhp will tear up any substandard parts.
As for reliability.... yeah ok, a 3.0L I-6 making that sort of power is going to be running a thin ring pack to prevent flutter and they wear out quickly so you're going to be dealing with blowby issues in a short amount of time as a DD.
Be prepared for regular maintenance as you're building a race engine, a few semi long drives getting on it hard is equal to a year’s racing.
To address the “driver mod” part of the thread, I’m an ok peddler have been around fast cars for 30+ years now and anything over 400rwhp on street tires has the potential to kill you dead in a blink of an eye, but it’s something you learn by doing and if you have some respect for the power and build up to it and with modern electronics it can be drivable.
I have data logs showing wheel spin at 100mph on a dry road with 285/35/18's and 500rwhp.
I never build myself a street car that makes more than 600 ish... You can't make it hook beyond that. And remember I've built these things into the 1,400+ rwhp range while professionally racing them.
With that said, if you want an undrivable monstrosity, as they say, it's your funeral.
800 rwhp daily driver:
First, few cars capable of this power level run it often. Most of the time it's tooling around town on whatever the wastgate spring will give you, generally in the 450 - 500 range. It's only when they turn up the boost and fill the car with C-16 that they make 800.
With all that said, what IJ. posted is dead on. You've got a lot of work to do. You can do it on the stock bottom end, but it won't last long. Unless you've got the money to pop $3000 short blocks into it every few months, you're going to have to build the motor.
What you'll need:
Bottom End:
Cylinder Head:
Engine Management:
Motec M800 with supporting ignition.
That's the basics. You'll need an intercooler to keep up with all of it, hardpipes, a massive BOV or two, a custom wiring harness, and a dozen other little items that will eat your budget up at an alarming rate. All of that will get you there, and if it's built right it will last for a while @ 800 if you run race fuel 24/7. This setup should be able to be dialed up to 1,000 at the wheels if you go with big injectors, run oversized valves and a more aggressive port job if you want to push it to the outside edge.
It's going to be a laggy bitch with shit for power under 4K, (read as, this shit ain't no fun to drive on the street) but when it hits you better know what you're doing because you'll be bouncing off 8.5K in short order. You also better have one hell of a suspension, drivetrain, set of brakes and a certified roll cage.
With that said, if you want an undrivable monstrosity, as they say, it's your funeral.
800 rwhp daily driver:
First, few cars capable of this power level run it often. Most of the time it's tooling around town on whatever the wastgate spring will give you, generally in the 450 - 500 range. It's only when they turn up the boost and fill the car with C-16 that they make 800.
With all that said, what IJ. posted is dead on. You've got a lot of work to do. You can do it on the stock bottom end, but it won't last long. Unless you've got the money to pop $3000 short blocks into it every few months, you're going to have to build the motor.
What you'll need:
Bottom End:
- Crank, balanced, knife edged
- Carillo H-Beam Rods
- Forged pistons (I'd suggest JE's with Total Seal rings, or Arias if you're serious)
- Power Enterprise F-1 Black Rod and Main Bearings
- ARP Crank Stud Kit
- ARP Rod bolts
- Solid engine mounts
- Titan Crank Pulley
Cylinder Head:
- HyperTune Intake w/ 90mm Throttle body & fuel rail
- 1,000 to 1,200 cc injectors with enough pump to push them.
- GSC Stage II cams (274 duration, 10.2 mm lift, 4000-8500 RPM Powerband, Rough idle)
- Forged idler pulley bracket
- Ferrea Dual Valve Springs, titanium retainers, guides, locks, seals and locators.
- Mild Port & Polish
- ARP Studs for the head
- HKS Headgasket
- Tubular Manifold
- Garrett GT4508R Turbo w/ 1.15 A/R
- One big ass wastegate - probably an HKS GT II in 60mm
Engine Management:
Motec M800 with supporting ignition.
That's the basics. You'll need an intercooler to keep up with all of it, hardpipes, a massive BOV or two, a custom wiring harness, and a dozen other little items that will eat your budget up at an alarming rate. All of that will get you there, and if it's built right it will last for a while @ 800 if you run race fuel 24/7. This setup should be able to be dialed up to 1,000 at the wheels if you go with big injectors, run oversized valves and a more aggressive port job if you want to push it to the outside edge.
It's going to be a laggy bitch with shit for power under 4K, (read as, this shit ain't no fun to drive on the street) but when it hits you better know what you're doing because you'll be bouncing off 8.5K in short order. You also better have one hell of a suspension, drivetrain, set of brakes and a certified roll cage.
I would suggest you look on youtube to Ryan Woon's car on the street; the car is useless. Granted, he is higher than 800hp, but you will still be spinning though most of the gears.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mHke...8ECEE40F&playnext=1&playnext_from=PL&index=25
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mHke...8ECEE40F&playnext=1&playnext_from=PL&index=25