sadly, you're thousands of $$ away from beating him, 4 car lengths requires a shitload of power to compensate. Grim has laid out the best path for you though
7mgte vs hks t04z rx7
- Thread starter al lewis
- Start date
rakkasan;1612087 said:
I am planning to forge the engine n so forth but one question since i do not live in a country where there is a Dyno would a standalone be a better move lets say the AEM EMS tuned on the street via loggs or just using a Piggy Back system lets say the MAFT Pro what would you recomend? also do you know of any shops or stores that specialize in 7MGTE's and building them to customers needs specifically in the miami florida area since it would be cheaper for shipping? or should i just do the build up myself with the help of my father who's a qualified toyota tech and use of local machine shops?
Also grim jack what Turbo would you recomend for domination also keep in mind we do alot of stop and go driving down here not to may mile straights if you know what i mean
al lewis;1611772 said:
From your mod list i dont see any 550cc injectors and wideband. What you need to do is get you some evo injectors you can find em cheap for less than $200 with 30k miles on them. Get yourself a wideband so you can keep an eye out on your air and fuel ratio. Ok now you got bigger injector and a way to monitor your AFR. Since you got bigger injectors you need to turn your fuel pressure down to about 26-27 psi, and start turning up the boost 1psi at a time. Keep those AFRS close to 11:1 as you can. With your set up and 18 psi, you should get way closer to him. Keep in mind you can have Gazillion mods but it all comes down to a tune. Play around with the 550cc injectors and this set up and race him again. Now you are set and can now move to a FULL t4 turbo kit or a Bolt on turbo from boss, sp, comp turbo.
---------- Post added at 09:04 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:58 AM ----------
Hey you said you have a lip 3" elbow and and hks exhaust but what kind of downpipe are you using?
I have to agree with everyone, this seems to be a losing battle for you. Even if you went the route of forged internals, larger injectors, t4 turbo, etc. Your brother can tune his AEM ECU more aggressively and probably still come out ahead. Your only hope is his engine blowing some apex seals before the run is over, allowing you to blow past him as he coasts to the side of the road 
Yeah you've got a tough road ahead I've argued how quick RX7's are in flashchat. As far as apex seals go, this issue was mainly associated with the FC 13BT. FD don't have this problem much if at all. However that RX7 has all the right mods so you're pretty much SOL.
I get better times with a 4.3 diff the problem is I have a 1JZ with stock twins and it revs higher & haves a more responsive engine then a 7M.
It is possible to get a slightly worse time with the 7M and 4.3 because the 7M haves more torque over power and a slower reving engine so a taller gearset compared to a reving bike engine with torque under HP curve will benifit better..
The ideal diff for a single turbo 1JZ is a 3.9 if you run a 4.3 on a 600hp 1j your just wasting time shifting because extra power and torque will cause you to blast gears too quickly.
The RX7 will beat you hands down its lighter haves more power the only thing the RX7 doesnt have is torque but it haves mods and is probably pushing 400-500hp with a 1/3 less weight, so its torque short comings is miniscule.
You can try an endurance race race him acrost country normaly Rx7s are less rebuildable and eat apex seals every 30K miles.
Another sure way to beat him is find a friend with a heavily modded 900hp 2JZ supra with simular paint then race him. for pinks:evil5:
It is possible to get a slightly worse time with the 7M and 4.3 because the 7M haves more torque over power and a slower reving engine so a taller gearset compared to a reving bike engine with torque under HP curve will benifit better..
The ideal diff for a single turbo 1JZ is a 3.9 if you run a 4.3 on a 600hp 1j your just wasting time shifting because extra power and torque will cause you to blast gears too quickly.
The RX7 will beat you hands down its lighter haves more power the only thing the RX7 doesnt have is torque but it haves mods and is probably pushing 400-500hp with a 1/3 less weight, so its torque short comings is miniscule.
You can try an endurance race race him acrost country normaly Rx7s are less rebuildable and eat apex seals every 30K miles.
Another sure way to beat him is find a friend with a heavily modded 900hp 2JZ supra with simular paint then race him. for pinks:evil5:
Standalone is virtually always a better choice than a piggyback. Any good tuner can street tune it, however, it's going to take a lot longer and cost a lot more than putting it on a dyno where they can dial in each cell easily.al lewis;1612082 said:
I don't know any places that build engines in Florida... that's about as far away from me as you can get and still be on the same continent. If you have access to competent machine work, and you are picky as hell about clearances and cleanliness, you should be able to build it yourself.
When it comes to Turbos, I'd suggest you call one of the experts, as I don't have much experience, to be honest. I've driven stock and upgraded CTs, a bolt on Turbonetics, and the 67mm on my 2J car. The guys who deal with them day to day will know what questions to ask you, and how those apply to what's available on the market. I've had very good luck with Jeff Tamulis from http://www.NotRice.com - his username on here is jtamulis, if I recall correctly. Give him a shout / PM / email / carrier pigeon and find out what he recommends for your circumstances.
To be blunt, I'd advise you to let him have the faster car. At the end of the day, you're still driving a good looking car, while he's behind the wheel of something that looks like a can of crushed assholes.
Sell Supra, buy MR2. Toss a bigger turbo on the 3S-GTE and push win buttons.
Lets be realistic, unless you want $15000 into your mid 3000 pound MkIII Supra to make it go faster than a ~400hp mid 2000 pound car, buying a mid 2000 pound car is just easier to compete in.
You're opening a BIG can of worms: once you have the power, you'll need the suspension for traction, then the tires will need to be better, then the brakes because you'll sh*t yourself otherwise. Then you break shit, that costs a butt-load of money... If it's what you want, start ringing up the parts. Also, be realistic about how much time you can dedicate to beating this RX-7. Years of having a pile of parts in your garage instead of a running car in your driveway? What happens when things go downhill, stuff gets f*cked up, you lose your job, or worse... You've got a few grand of worthless parts that vaugely resembles a Supra.
Or live with the fact his car's faster and have your car to drive? If you've got the cash, do it man. Otherwise... meh, depends on what's important to ya.
But just keep in mind that there's always someone who'll be faster. What are you willing to sacrifice to be faster than a car 1000 pounds lighter than yours?
If you'd like to find something your car is better at, go up a hill in 5th gear at 50km/hr. Then do the same in the RX-7. The ol' 7M will lug that hill like it's not even there...
Best of luck.
Lets be realistic, unless you want $15000 into your mid 3000 pound MkIII Supra to make it go faster than a ~400hp mid 2000 pound car, buying a mid 2000 pound car is just easier to compete in.
You're opening a BIG can of worms: once you have the power, you'll need the suspension for traction, then the tires will need to be better, then the brakes because you'll sh*t yourself otherwise. Then you break shit, that costs a butt-load of money... If it's what you want, start ringing up the parts. Also, be realistic about how much time you can dedicate to beating this RX-7. Years of having a pile of parts in your garage instead of a running car in your driveway? What happens when things go downhill, stuff gets f*cked up, you lose your job, or worse... You've got a few grand of worthless parts that vaugely resembles a Supra.
Or live with the fact his car's faster and have your car to drive? If you've got the cash, do it man. Otherwise... meh, depends on what's important to ya.
But just keep in mind that there's always someone who'll be faster. What are you willing to sacrifice to be faster than a car 1000 pounds lighter than yours?
If you'd like to find something your car is better at, go up a hill in 5th gear at 50km/hr. Then do the same in the RX-7. The ol' 7M will lug that hill like it's not even there...
Best of luck.
GrimJack;1612163 said:
Thanks for the info and inspiration i just has to accept that his car is faster but in the long run i know i'm more reliable i'm just gona take my time and build my car towards my goal i cherish my supra i'll never sell it want my kids to see it and ride in it once God Spares life by that time it will be complete but then again building never ends:icon_bigg
Why not just use his car as a bench mark for right now. My bro and I used to have this battle all the time with our cars eventually I surpassed him cause he couldn't throw money at his car anymore.
For right now I would look at getting proper fuel if you don't have it i.e. 550 injectors, cleaning up you A/F ratios while increasing your boost slightly.
Although doing that is probably only gonna shave off a car length which is at least a start.
For right now I would look at getting proper fuel if you don't have it i.e. 550 injectors, cleaning up you A/F ratios while increasing your boost slightly.
Although doing that is probably only gonna shave off a car length which is at least a start.
Drop in a 6.0 LS engine ($1000) with a larger cam($500), an Edelbrock intake and DIS box ($800) a Holley 850 double pumper($450). Back it with a strong 200R4 and stall converter ($1600). Add in a 100 shot of Nitrous ($400). Guaranteed 15+ car lengths (being conservative).
VT247
VT247
Well lets see. Upgraded CT-26 vs 67mm turbo, stock ecu vs standalone, upgraded injectors vs stock.. You can figure this one out.
If your 7M is healthy, put on the same size turbo as him and do all the supporting mods for 700rwhp- big intercooler, big fuel system, standalone ECU, tubular manifold/external wastegate. With those mods and racegas, the RX7 at 18psi will have no chance. Good luck, and I hope you've got mucho bucks saved up.
If your 7M is healthy, put on the same size turbo as him and do all the supporting mods for 700rwhp- big intercooler, big fuel system, standalone ECU, tubular manifold/external wastegate. With those mods and racegas, the RX7 at 18psi will have no chance. Good luck, and I hope you've got mucho bucks saved up.
Don't need an aluminum LS2. The iron L98 truck engine still has enormous potential. May be iron vs aluminum but it still weighs less than a 7MGTE. Many 2500 series p/u's, SUV's and commercial vehicles came equiped with the 6.0. It's just a few minor mods (cam, intake, carb) from 500 hp.
To make up for 4 car lengths with what he already has is going to be difficult. Start by loosing weight, tires, tune the suspension.
Mullets are so 80's. Go for a mohawk! lol
VT247
To make up for 4 car lengths with what he already has is going to be difficult. Start by loosing weight, tires, tune the suspension.
Mullets are so 80's. Go for a mohawk! lol
VT247
te72;1616414 said:You forgot the mullet.
Seriously though, where are you finding LS2's for $1000? Or are you talking L98's?
The Al engines are only 10 Kg's lighter than a 7M there's no way known an Iron block is lighter.Vacationtime247;1616507 said:
"L98" Gen I-V are an Al/Al 6.0L engine, if you're talking the old SBC L98 it's going to be much heavier again.
*Error. LQ4 or LQ9 is the truck 6.0 version. L98 was the older 350 tuned port dogs. You're right, the 6 liter weighs @100 lbs more. But you get twice the displacement.
VT247
VT247
IJ.;1616573 said:
lose some weight the rotory motor revs alot quicker to so you got allot of work ahead of you. unless you build you a new stronger motor and put your girl on a diet your fighting a losing batle