7mgte oil squirter question

[Dirgle]

The motor is in a 89 cressida and it is an aftermarket gauge/sender.

Ok, good an aftermarket setup removes questions about gauge compatibility on a swap, though on a cressida that's not really an issue.

I have done that and no oil pressure was shown but I fired it up for 5-10 seconds with the sender removed and oil shot out of the hole with enough force to hit the wheel well.

If there was enough pressure to hit the wheel well then you have oil flow as well as enough pressure to at least show up on a gauge. So to me this indicates an issue with the aftermarket gauge itself. How did you test to verify that the gauge and sender were working? This design uses the chassis ground as part of the circuit. If there is a poor ground between the gauge and chassis, engine and chassis, or engine and sender the gauge will not function properly.

Hmmm that sucks is there any way all 6 could be shot and dropping it enough to read 0 at idle-2500 rpm? Know a way of testing them once there out? I was hoping it was these, if its not I dunno what else to check..

Not likely your issue, read above paragraph.

edit: Like IJ said, if you can get your hands on a mechanical gauge it would eliminate an issue with the engine causing low oil pressure.

 

[IJ.]

Ok, good an aftermarket setup removes questions about gauge compatibility on a swap, though on a cressida that's not really an issue.



If there was enough pressure to hit the wheel well then you have oil flow as well as enough pressure to at least show up on a gauge. So to me this indicates an issue with the aftermarket gauge itself. How did you test to verify that the gauge and sender were working? This design uses the chassis ground as part of the circuit. If there is a poor ground between the gauge and chassis, engine and chassis, or engine and sender the gauge will not function properly.



Not likely your issue, read above paragraph.

edit: Like IJ said, if you can get your hands on a mechanical gauge it would eliminate an issue with the engine causing low oil pressure.

I think it has pressure based on the bold.

 

[steamer1661]

If there was enough pressure to hit the wheel well then you have oil flow as well as enough pressure to at least show up on a gauge. So to me this indicates an issue with the aftermarket gauge itself. How did you test to verify that the gauge and sender were working? This design uses the chassis ground as part of the circuit. If there is a poor ground between the gauge and chassis, engine and chassis, or engine and sender the gauge will not function properly.

Just to be clear it wasent rocketing out onto the well it was more of a weak stream hitting the bottom of the well/frame rail. I grounded out the sender wire and the gauge went maxed out, then hooked it back up to the sender and shot compressed air into the sender to make sure the sender was functioning.

edit: Like IJ said, if you can get your hands on a mechanical gauge it would eliminate an issue with the engine causing low oil pressure.

I drove it up the street while troubleshooting and seized the turbo so I think there is definately a pressure issue

 

[Dirgle]

I think it has pressure based on the bold.

That is my assumption as well. Damned assumptions.

Just to be clear it wasent rocketing out onto the well it was more of a weak stream hitting the bottom of the well/frame rail. I grounded out the sender wire and the gauge went maxed out, then hooked it back up to the sender and shot compressed air into the sender to make sure the sender was functioning.

That is still flow as well as pressure, and should still show up on a gauge. Not sure why your gauge isn't picking it up at least minimally. I would still look for a mechanical gauge with good resolution just to test with.

I drove it up the street while troubleshooting and seized the turbo so I think there is definately a pressure issue

Bad, 7M owner, bad. No treat for you.
Running and especially driving should be off limits if you are not seeing any oil pressure. Until this is resolved you should keep your battery fully charged, and the EFI fuse and spark plugs pulled. And never cranking the engine for more than 30 seconds at a time to keep the starter cool. This is how you need to conduct your tests for oil pressure.

That said, the CT26 turbo doesn't require huge amounts of oil to keep it spinning, especially if it's not under load. Most likely the turbo was on it's way out if it seized. Honestly if you had no oil pressure you would have killed the engine before you killed the turbo.

There may be a pressure issue, but lets test with a mechanical gauge that has good resolution, just to be sure. Borrow one if you have to.

 

[Dan_Gyoba]

Pressure enough to hit the wheel well? Like maybe more than 4.3 PSI, which the TSRM specifies as minimum at idle?

I already don't trust the gauge, or at least it's connection. That's the good thing with a mechanical, harder to screw up.

Siezing the turbo sucks, but lots of possible things there.

 

[IndigoMKII]

Driving an engine with no shown oil pressure, facepalm.

 

[Nick M]

That is my assumption as well. Damned assumptions.

ass + u (you) + me = assume.

 

[Dirgle]

bingo

 

[QWIKSTRIKE]

Try a Mechanical gauge .

Do this or forget about testing.....When I had a fresh rebuild the builder said he installed a new pump, but I had barely any oil pressure. I got a mechanical gauge and made him buy me a new one and pay for the install. With out a mechanical gauge you wont be as sure as you need to be about pressure levels period. You then can go back to an electric based pressure gauge. Hey there grumpy old man! lol