7mgte mild build ?
- Thread starter KG KONG
- Start date
Oh ok. So your going standalone? Whats this thing about the PowerHouse MAP ECU. Have you heard anything about it? Since your going with a standalone, I saw an AEM EMS Universal Stand Alone on EBAY for $799.99 obo. Don't know much about standalone, if its what your looking for, just thought Id let you know.
Okay, I seemed to of missed Tysan's goals for his car. If it's roughly 350 rwhp, just do the mods in my sig.
Whatever you do, ditch that narrowband A/F gauge. It tells you absolutely nothing and is nothing but a fancy bouncing light show when it comes right down to it. If you are going to run the turbo you mention and the other supporting mods, get a wideband A/F gauge and toss the narrowband in the garbage.
Don't be fooled by the words "plug-and-play".
I have yet to get anything that simple for our cars.
I have yet to get anything that simple for our cars.
Yes, Im just saying, there's more to it. I have no experience with that unit. And I myself am not a tuner,
But be wary of the words "plug and play". It's an "overall" term.
All the plug and play items I have bought for my car needed modification of some sort. Not sure of what support level you will get on that unit if your doing it yourself and something is wonky.
There is a stand alone section in the forum that probably deals with it because I think it's a more popular unit.
Mine "plugs in" as well however I have the wrong color plug, I can't tune it and I am adding a few more sensors.
As for standalone not being necessary, it isn't. However it's better when done properly.
Just don't expect to swap it and get perfect results.
But be wary of the words "plug and play". It's an "overall" term.
All the plug and play items I have bought for my car needed modification of some sort. Not sure of what support level you will get on that unit if your doing it yourself and something is wonky.
There is a stand alone section in the forum that probably deals with it because I think it's a more popular unit.
Mine "plugs in" as well however I have the wrong color plug, I can't tune it and I am adding a few more sensors.
As for standalone not being necessary, it isn't. However it's better when done properly.
Just don't expect to swap it and get perfect results.
yeah my local tuner is best with aem he can practically tune aem with his eyes closed lol
but I haven't decided wether I wanna buy the unit from him and have him install or buy from dm and have him just tune that one
I'm trying to get him to give me estimate on pricing so I can figure the difference I know it's gonna be around 2k though
but I haven't decided wether I wanna buy the unit from him and have him install or buy from dm and have him just tune that one
I'm trying to get him to give me estimate on pricing so I can figure the difference I know it's gonna be around 2k though
The plug and play part of the aem ems is that it does plug into our harness. The play part, well, you need to change a few things around to get the AEM happy with the car. Such as switching out the igniter and going to the DH-61 igniter for the sequential ignition. If you do that, you might as well switch over to coil on plug as well.
Ok fellas thanks for your input but I'm as lost as dorthy was on the yellow brick road .lol my car is a 1987 turbo supra with new a340 trans. The motor was rebuilt 40 thous.miles ago .it has a t3 t4 hybrid turbo set at 12 psi. It has stock ic but has 2 inch hard piping its got a bov .new radiator three core . Suspension is stock .its got a 3 inch stainless exhaust with downpipe and straight thru muffler dumped before axle . Runs strong as hell .but just wanted to know what fpr should I use or leave stock only want 15 psi .hitting fuel cut after 12 psi.
Dont really have a hp number in mind i just wanted a couple more psi . Till i hit 15 psi . Whats the easiest way to achieve this goal? I bought 550 rc injectors and lex maf housing. But havent installed them yet . Is this the safest wau to hit 15 psi or ???
KG KONG;1941803 said:
Well.. I will give an answer that is as complete as the information provided...
yes.
You don't need a FPR really.. but when you get into higher output... you will want to know that you aren't leaning out. Only way to tell is a wideband. The Lexus AFM/550's are specifically intended to get around the fuel cut issue. You can still hit fuel cut if you get boost spikes.. but that's a different issue.
Oddly enough, people equate PSI boost into power. Its a heckuva lot more than just that. For one thing.. where is the boost controller sitting.. where is boost pressure read? A properly tuned 7M can put out a lot of power at 12 psi whereas a 15 psi 7M with no tune can do what it does... and nothing much more. You will go pig rich and there wont be room for air because you will have too much fuel. (running AFR 10:1 or lower)
Going for higher power is easy. Managing it so it doesn't damage your engine and is done efficiently.. not so easy.
I want to thank you guys for your time to write . I will get a wideband first thing then do the injectors and lex housing. I will let u know the outcome soon. Thanks again.