7mgte Header / T04 question

[Bruno Molly]

Found out today that the 6M Crankshaft I scored is ok to use in my build. Machine shop is polishing it and I pick it up tomorrow. Since I don't have a Donald Trump wallet or off shore account but do have 2 kids in college and this is my sons supra that was my daily driver for years, I want to take my time with this build. Not trying to build an engine that will smoke the tires down to the valve stems, but have a little more that stock turbo power. I have had this header

for 3 years, anticipating that some day, my engine will fail and when i resurrect it, I will use this header. Well that day is here. I have the wastegate designed for this header also, it's just not in this photo.
I have been looking at this turbo and know nothing about it.

T4 T04B Turbocharger
.60 A/R Compressor, 1.15A/R Turbine
3" Inlet & 2" Outlet

Its awfully cheap $$$$ and as the story goes you get what you pay for. Is this more turbo than the stock CT26? Anyone know anything about this turbo?
If I get this turbo and use it with the header i have, will I have to have bigger injectors, ECU remapped, and FP upgrade? For this build I am using stock rods with new pistons...(not forged), NPR pistons and rings. Block is +.20 over. Thanks for your help.

-=BM

 

[IJ.]

1.15ar turbine is going to be laggy.....

 

[airhead04]

Its going to be really laggy. Bur if thats an ebay turbo, itll be really broke to. Ebay turbos arent good quality.

 

[Kevin]

what kinda power are you looking for?

 

[Bruno Molly]

Ok...Well Done! like Steak! That's the info I needed. As far as what kind of power I'm looking for....its more like what i can afford, and get what ever power it lands me. (did I say that right?) Lol.
I'm a Dummy when it comes to Turbine Jargon like trim, and ?.??ar etc.... I guess I never really sat down to read up on it in detail. I remember back in my volvo 740 turbo days seeing a Chart with a graph in Turbo magazine about some Mitsubishi, Rayjay, Turbonetics, HKS, and some others I can't recall explaining about Spolling, trim, Lag, coking, cooling, ceramic and all that but i didn't really get into really deep. I have rebuilt a couple of turbos from when the water seals failed, and a couple where the Bearings were so worn the compressor wheel or turbine fins were rubbing the housing. I have a Volvo 850R that is my daily driver..I've tweaked on it some but nothing major. Replaced the Rod bearings and rings last summer...MBC, Cold air intake, NA throttlebody... bout it. Fast as hell! but I pretty much leave it alone since I am satisfied with how it runs. I was amazed that with 315K on the clock, you could still see the cross Hash marks in all of the 5 cylinders. The ONLY reason i went thru the engine was because it had a burned valve. I see a big difference in the quality of the steel in European cars (BMW, Volvo etc.). I also tweak on my 750iL v12. I'm way off track here.... The Supra project is not a major priority so I will just get it back on the road for now and start upgrading with bolt-on performance later. But thanks for the info on that turbo. Can someone direct me to an inexpensive ($300-400) T4 Turbo with minimal lag and boost to where I won't have to hit FC or have and ECU upgrade..INcidently How easy is it to Rechip or Flash an 89 MKiii ECU once you go with a larger turbo? Is there any code, software, interface cable PC-->Supra ECU floating around for download on the internet?

 

[dubsupra209]

you should just rebuild your stock ct and go 57trim they pull pretty hard...thats what im going with...driftmootion sells them with a core change with your stock ct for $510 good price will last a long time too...plus looks stock so if your son has any trouble with ccops they wouldnt know cause it looks like the stock ct

 

[oldsking]

I have also heard the CT witht eh 57 trim is a great upgrade and not to bad when it comes to fearing of not having a lot of money to mod I'm in the T4 boat right now completing my build and I still can't find my off shore account info lol If you get it running soon we have a NC supra meet coming up next month, PM me for details

Good luck with the build!

 

[Kevin]

i dont think you can reflash the ecu because our car is pre obd (correct me if im wrong guys)

i think you should go with a piggyback. there are a few options you can go with, like maft pro, or hks vpc, safc etc..

as for the turbo.. its probably easier to go with an upgraded bolt on ct. you dont have to mess with getting a new manifold, wastegate, running oil lines and bypassing coolant lines, etc..

 

[bountykilla0118]

About flashing the 7m ecu yes you can, but not like Honda and Nissan ...... We would have to get lucky and find a MINES ecu. But with all the other options out there I wouldn’t go that way.

About the turbo ..... move on from the ct26 you already have a t4 manifold get a Master Power unit. If had known more when I first started I would not have gone through 2 upgraded ct26. They are prone to fail not because they aren’t built and balanced right but the actual shaft is to small for the upgraded wheel and compressor surge kills ..... 1 more time ..... kills upgraded ct26's. Get a X-s power turbo if your pockets are light they have been proven over the years to be pretty damn good for $350. Maybe 10 have failed over the last few years and they sell so many to the NA 2jz guys in Lexus Sc 300's and NA Supras. Mark gives offers a great warranty on his stuff.

 

[Bruno Molly]

About flashing the 7m ecu yes you can, but not like Honda and Nissan ...... We would have to get lucky and find a MINES ecu. But with all the other options out there I wouldn’t go that way.

About the turbo ..... move on from the ct26 you already have a t4 manifold get a Master Power unit. If had known more when I first started I would not have gone through 2 upgraded ct26. They are prone to fail not because they aren’t built and balanced right but the actual shaft is to small for the upgraded wheel and compressor surge kills ..... 1 more time ..... kills upgraded ct26's. Get a X-s power turbo if your pockets are light they have been proven over the years to be pretty damn good for $350. Maybe 10 have failed over the last few years and they sell so many to the NA 2jz guys in Lexus Sc 300's and NA Supras. Mark gives offers a great warranty on his stuff.

Interesting...taking this all in. Once I get back in the paint booth, I airbrush and paint Motorcycles, cars, trucks etc. this time of year so I'll make a buck or two once the weather warms up. We'll have a little leeway.
It's basically my son's baby so I will help him out some. Its funny, I drove the car for 8 years and never had any problems other than an occasional coolant hose bursting, then ps leak...I hand the car over to him and Poof! Engine blows.
If he is anything like me when I first started driving I know why now. But I fixed my cars myself as my father didn't know diddly squat about a car. So once we get this car back on the road, whats the procedure for Seating the Rings in a 7MGTE?

 

[IBoughtASupra]

The rings should be exposed to minimal amount of boost and vacuum. Don't full throttle the engine right away. I spoke to IJ, a knowledgeable person, about this samething and he said that any rebuilt 7M should not really go through a harsh break-in. Make sure you do a few pulls from about 80-120, if you can, and let the car coast down, then repeat and also change the oil while breaking in the engine. Hopefully he sees this thread and stops in.

 

[IJ.]

Clarification: I said most aren't in any fit condition to do a hard breakin from first start

Most often there's been a bunch of changes made during the rebuild and there are usually teething problems/issues that need to be corrected that if ran hard can flush ALL of your work and $$$ down the shitter..

 

[IBoughtASupra]

So if I honed all my cylinders to get a good surface and checked every clearance of all the rings to make sure they are within spec and when I say "within," I mean in the middle of the range, not the lowest or highest it can be, then how should I break in the engine?

 

[IJ.]

Up to you I already outlined my methods.

If you think everything is right and want to try a hard breakin by all means go for it but as I posted most Mk3's aren't "ready" from the first start and you run a risk.

ie: Coolant leak and you end up annealing the head, Oil leak and you end up either RKing it or burning it to the ground, Fuel leak ditto on burning it down, Tight bearing clearence and you spin it followed by RK and kicking a rod out through the side of the block, Blocked Oil passage to the head and you run the cams dry and take out all of the cam journals, the list goes on....

I like to make sure nothing is going to fail before I risk loading it up heavily, look around SM it's littered with failures of every kind.