3p141592654;2030033 said:
What actually happens when said "joker" "cleans" the AFM? I may have lightly wire brushed the crusty's off when I swapped to the larger Lexus AFM. Is my car going to explode?
7MGTE head banger. Need some input.
- Thread starter IDISLIKEMK3
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What actually happens when said "joker" "cleans" the AFM? I may have lightly wire brushed the crusty's off when I swapped to the larger Lexus AFM. Is my car going to explode?
You mean
Please don't leave out important details when you quote me. When you do that your AFM stops working, you get a code 31. Exploding what?
Please don't leave out important details when you quote me. When you do that your AFM stops working, you get a code 31. Exploding what?
The quote had no details left out, my comment may have but not the quote.
I had read a few posts about not cleaning the AFM sensor but only after I had brushed the thing. The exploding part was purely in jest, please disregard.
I had read a few posts about not cleaning the AFM sensor but only after I had brushed the thing. The exploding part was purely in jest, please disregard.
Yeah you're right, my bad. Brushing shouldn't harm it. Most commonly used solvents destroy the optics inside the AFM.
Ok.... After reading the TSRM when I got home I realized the vacuum has nothing to do with it. It was just an assumption cause I knew the 31 code was AFM something or other. So i Immediately started thinking about that area if I left something unplugged and remembered that line. And carb cleaner is for carbs and brake cleaner is for brakes. Neither touch electrical parts. I use electrical cleaner or if I have it MAF cleaner. But anyways....
This is what i removed from where it was attached to the computer harness. Freaken ridiculous. So when I was in there testing the wires they came undone but the mass amounts of black tape was still holding the wire in. So I didn't notice.This was the result of the 31. After fixing the wiring and tugging on the rest I know have a 31 and a 24..... Can the NEO block a check engine light because it is modifying the signal or does the NEO still need to see a correct signal for it to send a signal to the ECU?
And the car will idle almost perfect until i touch the throttle. Then when the codes come on I can touch the throttle but it breaks up and sputters anything over 2k
This is what i removed from where it was attached to the computer harness. Freaken ridiculous. So when I was in there testing the wires they came undone but the mass amounts of black tape was still holding the wire in. So I didn't notice.This was the result of the 31. After fixing the wiring and tugging on the rest I know have a 31 and a 24..... Can the NEO block a check engine light because it is modifying the signal or does the NEO still need to see a correct signal for it to send a signal to the ECU?
And the car will idle almost perfect until i touch the throttle. Then when the codes come on I can touch the throttle but it breaks up and sputters anything over 2k
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I'm no expert on the NEO, but all these piggybacks just scale the KS input. So no input means no output. Your symptoms are consistent with a bad KS input.
MAF cleaner on our AFMs is instant death.
MAF cleaner on our AFMs is instant death.
Yes^ This is kinda what was a bit of a head scratcher last night. The wire that was all fubar'd was the KS signal. The green with red stripe. But now I have a code that says no voltage between THA-E2? I didnt get a chance to diagnose the 31 code last night cause I spent time fixing the wiring at the ecu. I did take the AFM off and clean it with electrical cleaner and test resistance and at about 62 degrees it was around 3k ohms.
Good to know about the MAF. I have actually never used specific MAF cleaner. only electrical cleaner. because I know it seems to be fine for anything.
Good to know about the MAF. I have actually never used specific MAF cleaner. only electrical cleaner. because I know it seems to be fine for anything.
I hope you didn't use electrical cleaner on the optics part that is in the air stream. The only acceptable cleaner for that part is freon, which is no longer available.
I didn't spray it inside probe just on the outside where there was a nice build up of gunk. I doubt completely killed it but It does have alot of miles on it so maybe I finally killed it. But I will be thoroughly testing it and the wires tonight. So if wires check out then it should be the AFM.
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Tested KS-BODY GROUND(normal is 4-6v ignition sw on)...So when the NEO is plugged in it fluctuates between 1.9 to 2.8 volts. When the neo is bypassed it stays solid at 4.79 volts. Is the neo suppose to lower the voltage? It stayed the same when idling with neo plugged in. Didn't try it with neo unplugged.
AFM tested 2.349kohms at 70 degrees and 4.6kohms at 37 degrees. So that's pretty close to spec according to the TSRM. Going to break out the heat gun here shortly to get the hotter temp ohms.
Had a hard time getting the heat gun to get a steady temp but at around 104 it was .98k ohms which is still around spec.
AFM tested 2.349kohms at 70 degrees and 4.6kohms at 37 degrees. So that's pretty close to spec according to the TSRM. Going to break out the heat gun here shortly to get the hotter temp ohms.
Had a hard time getting the heat gun to get a steady temp but at around 104 it was .98k ohms which is still around spec.
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If your meter reads frequency, see what KS is at warm idle (650rpm). Should be around 20 to 40 Hz.
hvyman;2030313 said:
No the owner has not. I will put that on his to do list when the car goes back to him.
3p141592654;2030314 said:
And yes. My fancy smancy klein I picked up last night does frequency. Thanks for the tip I will give it a shot tonight.
While testing the hz on the ks signal and moving the computer around I noticed the neo restarting itself. It was face down in the dark most of the time tonight so after fixing the signal/power wires i tested everything......0 hz at ecu on ks signal. 35 ish hz as input to neo. Soooo I bypassed the neo on the ks signal and it idled fine and reved fine....So I have narrowed my issue down I think. So if im thinking straight the neo isnt translating the ks signal to the ecu correctly and as soon as the car comes off idle and that signal becomes important....boom check engine light....?
Thank you sir for your input. Appreciate it. Do you think an shitty alternator could have caused this? I am just trying to think if there is anything that I could have done to cause this.
When I worked on it the first thing that was undone was the negative battery cable...forgot to add on the way to where I work on cars the alternator decided to crap out. And he has a vautozone in there and a kirkland battery!! Just asking for trouble. I am just trying to wrap my head around this that it ran bitchin after I put it together and half of the morning after. So idk. I have seen some weird issues caused by faulty regulators in alternators. Thinking just coincidence.
When I worked on it the first thing that was undone was the negative battery cable...forgot to add on the way to where I work on cars the alternator decided to crap out. And he has a vautozone in there and a kirkland battery!! Just asking for trouble. I am just trying to wrap my head around this that it ran bitchin after I put it together and half of the morning after. So idk. I have seen some weird issues caused by faulty regulators in alternators. Thinking just coincidence.