I'm getting to this and can say - IMO
1. Deleting the Idle Speed Control Valve (ISC) when running Speed Density with a *Standalone EMS works. ***Factory ECU and Piggbacks need not apply :umno:
2. Ignition, Timing and Fueling can be set to compensate for a cold condition start and other down low factors.
^- "No IAC valve at all? Yes, you can run without an IAC valve. Just use your idle speed set screw to adjust it open enough that the engine doesn't stall on cold starts. Sure, your idle speed with the engine warmed up will be higher than it could be, and you'll have no way to adjust for stuff like the A/C or electrical loads, but it'll work." -
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^- Pertaining to a good running & Tuned 7M, this works great and it has a good enough stroke to get R done. Under extreme weather there will be varied results and if your looking to keep factory systems just stay away from attempting this.
Most of the equipment that helps cold starts, idle control and accessories, are not needed if your developing a hobby/race car that will do mostly out and back runs.
Here is an example holding a 500rpm idle in 73 degree weather over 2000 feet elevation. -
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