7mgte crank question and head stud sizing.
- Thread starter mrchomponthis
- Start date
use a puller that you can rent from advance auto or autozone or the like, itll be a harmonic balancer puller iirc. i sure hope you've got the crank pulley bolt loose cause itll be a bitch to get off if not. you'll have to use an impact gun and/or jam a screwdriver/flat prybar into the flywheel teeth to lock it.
as for your head bolts (if they're stock) use a 10mm hex socket (like an allen wrench) to get them out. if they're arp head studs, then use a 12pt 14mm socket.
as for your head bolts (if they're stock) use a 10mm hex socket (like an allen wrench) to get them out. if they're arp head studs, then use a 12pt 14mm socket.
Alright listen very good okay? I just took my Crank pulley off my crank today. Keep all spark plugs in, get a 19mm socket and get a breaker bar, and a hammer. Hit the breaker bar, I got mine off this way, about 7 times now I have had to use this way, and I love it. Anyhow, your head bolts are a Allen key if they're stock. If they're arp it's 12mm 12 point for ARP Head bolts.
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well they are arp 14mm. i have a 14mm 12 point socket and i can get the end ones of but not the ones in the inside of those there is just not enough room. I am going to head to auto zone to see if they have some sockets that are smaller that can fit in that small spot. or possibly an allen key socket that can fit. and I tried the 19mm and a breaker bar my engine just keeps turning over.... any other ideas?
mrchomponthis;1135158 said:
It's okay if it turns over just keep the spark plugs in though so compression is still there.. just keep hitting that break bar I go mine off, and this is how I take mine off.
Fuck guys I know you're trying to help but if you don't have accurate information DON'T post in the tech section....
ARP studs use Nuts that are 9/16" 12 point and you'll need a thinwall socket.
The Allen head socket in the Stud is 5mm.
ARP Bolts are 1/2" 12 point
:nono:
ARP studs use Nuts that are 9/16" 12 point and you'll need a thinwall socket.
The Allen head socket in the Stud is 5mm.
ARP Bolts are 1/2" 12 point
:nono:
-pull oil pan
-get a block of wood in there to stop the crank from rotating
-loosen crank pully bolt
Do this once the head is off of I think you'll have issues with your engine stand, and you'll need someone to hold the engine while to break the bolt loose so you don't flip the engine on the stand.
-get a block of wood in there to stop the crank from rotating
-loosen crank pully bolt
Do this once the head is off of I think you'll have issues with your engine stand, and you'll need someone to hold the engine while to break the bolt loose so you don't flip the engine on the stand.
mrchomponthis;1135164 said:
Yeah that matters, if you had the cams on and timing belt, there is more to hold it back, now I bet that crank spins like no other?
Poodles;1135571 said:
This is the best, most reliable way to keep the crank from turning...it will not matter if you have the cams or timing belt installed. Pay attention to the last sentence. You may need an extension pipe on the breaker bar for more leverage.
Well I guess with your situation this works perfectly. I have heard of doign this, but I use the break bar hit it a few times and wham.. the bolt is off, it doesn't hurt anything either. That is my way of doing it and i have done this counbtless times with no problems, but that way looks like ti will work better for you considering your cams are not in there.
Good luck.
Good luck.
thanks for all the help. I am still confused with my head studs. they are 12 point 14mm and my socket won't fit. I went to home depot, harbor freight, and autozone and they don't have any 14mm 12 points any smaller than the socket I have.
A Craftsman 3/8" drive 14mm 12 point socket will fit....so will a Craftsman 9/16" 12 point 3/8" drive socket (just like IJ said earlier). You will need a 3/8" to 1/2" drive adapter for your 1/2" torque wrench. With the cams off, it will be no problem.
i woudl listen to IJ hes got the expeirence and the knowlesdge. Also if you don't have the crank pulley bolt loose i recomend droping it off the stand for this i had mine on a pallet. What i did was take a 4 way( cross bar, star bar, tire iron, ect. all the dumb names ive heard) and find one with a large flat head on one side and lock it up in the flex plate or flywheel which ever one you have.(if you have a old stock one bolt that on because it may bend out one of the holes) and lock the other end under one of the pallet pieces of wood. Thank get to cranking away with a breaker bar and large pipe section for leverage. as IJ told me Levarage is King. Thank use the block for leverage. Some dumbass may have loctited it on before. So let us know how ti goes
IJ.;1135889 said:
Ian - I have a brand new set of ARP studs out in the garage. Before I posted that, I fit one of the nuts to both a 14mm and 9/16" socket. The nut fit both...in fact, it was a better (bit more snug) fit to the 14mm.
Arp use imperial sizes for the heads....
While 14mm-9/16th is close 13mm-1/2" isn't
I prefer to use the correct size tool for the job.
While 14mm-9/16th is close 13mm-1/2" isn't
I prefer to use the correct size tool for the job.
nevermind.. just realized the engine is on a stand. DOH!
haha i was like 'why hasnt anyone recommended putting it in 5th?'
but then i was like ah, ok.
haha i was like 'why hasnt anyone recommended putting it in 5th?'
but then i was like ah, ok.