7mge-T?

[Dan_Gyoba]

That was my conclusion. The GTE swap was a much better deal.

At about 200xxx kms, my differential started making noise, so I swaped out the 4.300:1 for a 3.909:1. The difference is exactly 10%, so if my speedo said I was going 100 km/h, I was doing 110. If my odometer said that I had gone 100km, I'd gone 110. Basically, it meant that if you don't want a ticket, stick the speedo to the posted limit, since cops will GENERALLY give you about that much leeway.

At about 480,000kms, I swapped in an R154 which matched the 3.909:1 differential, and my speedometer is now correct. (That does mean that the odometer SHOULD have read something over 500,000 at the time though.) This was another reason that I went for the swap. I figured that if I boosted that high mileage a 7M-GE, it was going to have a VERY short lifespan, no matter how well I took care of it for the past 420,000 kms.

 

[Emeraldage]

Ha. Yeah I wouldn't do that. Hopefully if this guy is selling I get can bunch of shiz off his car. If not. I"m going to build the 7mge. Attempt to get a 7mgte harness, intake mani, 3000 pipe, ecu. Would the throttle body still be in the same spot and CC work?

 

[Dan_Gyoba]

Cruise control is fine. I'm still using the NA cruise, works great. In some ways better than the turbo one would, since it never allows the engine to go into boost. (It shouldn't need to for most situations.)

Problem with the GTE harness and TCCS is that then you also need GTE electronics, so you also need CPS, igniter and coils, second knock sensor (Drill and tap block at the knock sensor bosses).

The GTE intake manifold moves the throttle body off to the side, but you don't need it. In fact, the GE intake manifold is a better design, the reason that the GTE doesn't use the same one is for room for the coil packs. The throttle bodies are slightly different, possibly to deal with boost, but I'm not 100% there. I think that you can use the GE TB just fine though. No need for a 3000 pipe at all, really.

If you're building the GE for boost, I'd take the exhaust manifold, turbo and downpipe from the GTE. You'll also need an intercooler and plumbing, as well as a recirculation valve. Air to the ISC would need to be routed to the intake between the AFM and turbo, and you should re-route your PCV to there as well, and cap off the opening at the throttle body. (Don't pressurize the crank case!) You will probably also want the power steering pump and resevoir from the GTE, though you'll need to relocate the resevoir if you're keeping the distributor (Which I would)

From there, you'll need something to provide/manage additional fuel. This can be done a number of ways, but probably the stock 440cc injectors and resistor pack from a GTE, along with an AFPR would be enough. The engine will run somewhat rich under open loop mode, since you're running larger injectors than it thinks, but this should be enough to provide fuel under moderate ( <10 psi) boost, which is about all that you'll want with the 9.2:1 compression pistons. Some tuning of air/fuel will be available with the adjustable fuel pressure regulator, and would be highly recommended. Alternately, a piggyback fuel computer could handle additional injectors, or something else in order to provide more fuel under boost. This would be more tuneable.

 

[Emeraldage]

Hmm, still some of the things your saying is going over my head. Trying to understand, still not experienced yet haha. If we end up using this engine. We're going to get the engine rebuilt. Compression dropped to 8.5:1 or 9:1 (Which you think is better, figure just match the gte. After that is done, buy an aftermarket turbo system and intercooler. The stock throttle body and intake will hold fine with moderate boost? Can I run average/low boost ~7psi with stock injectors for a bit?