7mge-T?

[Emeraldage]

Again, I have a 89 supra, 7mge, 210k miles and 3" exhaust. We're going to do a rebuild first, seals, gaskets, pumps, head ported and polished, machine work on the block we'll see what it needs when it's apart. Possibley cams. Dropping compression ratio .5 if possible too.

Obviously wanting to throw a turbo system on the car after that. Randomly looking around, liked what I saw, a kit from driftmotion for the 7m.

Few questions obviously. For the intake off the turbo, do you just put the afm there? I was also looking at the front facing intake manifold, found em on ebay and elsewhere. This would require relocating the alternator, how would one do this? Also, it says it can use the original throttle body. How would that work out with the cables? Have to cut the cables to work correctly? My car has cruise control and I'd love to keep that.

Also any other comments about putting a turbo system on this engine are welcome, or guides.

 

[Jimbo]

Gotta buy a special bracket to relocate the alternator.
Are you using NA electronics?

 

[Emeraldage]

Yes, I was wondering about the computer as well. I don't think anything there is going to be different. Could a dyno shop actually tune it? I honestly don't really know much about it.

Who makes these brackets? Or have to find out or custom make them? Nevermind just found the Beech 7m Billet one. And the belt can just be pulled right down there and it'd be all good?

 

[Greatdestroyer187]

Sethron71 makes brackets and ffim, r u using ur stock electronics?

 

[Emeraldage]

Well as of now sure. Next step is a rebuild. Getting a kit with gaskets, seals, oil + water pump, pistons. Going to have a shop open the block, figure out what else it needsand take care of that. While it's open they're also going to bore so cylinders are smooth and straight, as well as port + Polish heads, hopefully bring the 210k Toy engine back to life with a little more.

Turbo system will come later however it will come at some point.

 

[Poodles]

Again, I have a 89 supra, 7mge, 210k miles and 3" exhaust. We're going to do a rebuild first, seals, gaskets, pumps, head ported and polished, machine work on the block we'll see what it needs when it's apart. Possibley cams. Dropping compression ratio .5 if possible too.

Cams for NA are generally different than those designed for turbo cars. I don't recommend running a boosted engine without oil squirters, especially with cast pistons.

Obviously wanting to throw a turbo system on the car after that. Randomly looking around, liked what I saw, a kit from driftmotion for the 7m.

Few questions obviously. For the intake off the turbo, do you just put the afm there?

I guess you'd put the flapper AFM there, but I wouldn't run on GE electronics at all as it's not designed for boost.

I was also looking at the front facing intake manifold, found em on ebay and elsewhere. This would require relocating the alternator, how would one do this?

Dropdown bracket or relocation to where the A/C compressor goes (obviously you lose A/C doing that)

Also, it says it can use the original throttle body. How would that work out with the cables? Have to cut the cables to work correctly? My car has cruise control and I'd love to keep that.

Usually need a longer cable, and you lose cruise control. JDM cars used an actuator on the gas pedal instead of the complex linkage on top of the motor. It might be possible to convert, but I've never had the chance to see the JDM assembly.

Also any other comments about putting a turbo system on this engine are welcome, or guides.

It's better (and far safer) to just build a full on GTE these days. It's not as expensive as it once was. You eliminate a lot of issues doing it that way, that would cost just as much to fix and work around than it would to just put the GTE system in.

 

[mecevans]

Nothing wrong with no squirters.

 

[Poodles]

Nothing wrong with no squirters.

For a race car that constantly rebuilt, sure. For a street car, no.

 

[Emeraldage]

Well I didn't really say this but it's a daily driver. So no FFIM then? Have to run weird piping over the top of the engine?

The Cruise control thing confused me. On my car there's a random cylinder on the driver side, with 2 cables. One is connected to the pedal, one to CC I believe. If you turn CC on it will pull the 2nd cable. But if I'm going to lose A/C this is pointless. Even though I rarely use A/C...

 

[Greatdestroyer187]

Were u gettin ur rebuild kit from? R u gonna use arp hardware, highly recomended

 

[Greatdestroyer187]

stock turbo intake manifold flows enough for 500+ hp and u can buy one for $40 or alittle more so spend ur money on other mods

 

[Emeraldage]

Okay, probably ebay but nothing's final so if you have a better place for a kit let me know. Well the engine block is still going to be taken apart to get bored to straight out cylinders, let the shop do the work they do to make it run like new. Bearings and such.

 

[mecevans]

For a race car that constantly rebuilt, sure. For a street car, no.

Tell that to Devin

 

[Dan_Gyoba]

Personally, I wouldn't do the FFIM. If you're going to do that, then you might as well start with a GTE, you've got enough work ahead of you, and a decent enough 7M-GTE can be found for the price of the manifold.

The easiest way to drop the compression ratio is with the GTE pistons, or appropriate replacements, but again, probably just as easy to find a GTE block.

The intake cam is SLIGHTLY different, but people have put them in place on the GTE engines as well. You get a bit more low end from the NA cam, at a slight cost to the high end. Probably not high on the list of things to be worried about. The exhaust cam is identical.

The NA cruise control works just fine with a boosted engine, no worries there. It will limit throttle to where there's still some manifold vacuum, but that's fine, and mine holds speed on the highway for anything up to about a 7% grade very well. Cruise and A/C have nothing to do with each other.

I spent a number of years looking into way to turbo an NA, and in the end, the easiest way to do it was to get a 7M-GTE, and start from there. The electronics are better, the engine has more ways to deal with things, and you can follow in the footsteps of thousands of Supra owners before for ways to get reliable power.

I don't think that the oil squirters are that big a deal myself, they're just one more thing that's there in the GTE block that isn't in the GE. There are several high performance turbocharged motors that don't have them, and never miss them. A bigger deal is the dual knock sensors (As opposed to the GE's single) the distributorless ignition system, KV AFM, larger low impedance injectors, fuel pressure regulation, as well as an engine management system that expects the car to go to positive manifold pressure. Makes things much easier to just increase that.

All that said, it also depends on what your goal is. If you aren't looking to go past 250WHP or so, you COULD basically slap a stock CT-26 (OR a mild upgraded one, like Driftmotion sells) on a stock manifold, plumb in an intercooler, add in a fuel management piggyback, and go. Keep boost to 7-8 PSI, and pump 92 octane, and you'll be fine.

I feel that you'd be better off finding a CT-26 and manifold from a parts car than an eBay turbo kit, since you never know exactly what you're getting with the eBay stuff.

I think that it's probably better for you to state some sort of power goal, and budget figures in order to get the best advise. From some of the things that you're mentioning, your budget could be fairly sizeable, and from that, I think that you'd be much further ahead to start with a 7M-GTE, or possibly even look at a 1JZ/1.5JZ swap to get started from.

 

[Emeraldage]

Ugh this really makes me mad. Seems to be so difficult to add a turbo on a car built for forced induction. Yet people with their Honda family sedans put turbos on those constantly. Basically what I'm learning is a turbo system would be stupid. I was looking at 1jz originally but it's going to be expensive and I'm sure there would be many complications. Buying a 7mgte would still be costly and would have to rebuild still, being so old. Don't really want to just sell the supra and get a different one. And I would not got a FFIM if I'd lose A/C. This is a daily car, don't care for crazy power but wouldn't mind it. Looking for at least 300hp (at least from motor). What I've learned tonight is rather discouraging.

 

[Jimbo]

Ugh this really makes me mad. Seems to be so difficult to add a turbo on a car built for forced induction. Yet people with their Honda family sedans put turbos on those constantly.

And they're constantly blowing their shit up.
Just drop in a 7mgte, a lot less thinking involved. 300hp is not hard to reach with basic mods and a tune... and you get to keep your A/C.

 

[Emeraldage]

Well I was going to do an aftermarket setup, not taking the sysmte from a gte. 7mgte manifold fit on a 7mge?

For the most part, without upgrading ignition and maybe ecu I'm not going to get very much out of it?

 

[Greatdestroyer187]

is ur supra ur only car? If I were u i'd save up sum cash and just buy the gte bottom end and electronics u can use ur head on the gte block. Look on craigslist or in the forsale section

 

[Emeraldage]

Don't see a way of upgrading ignition if it runsoff the belt is and a mechanical rather than a coil pack. I bet an AEM EMS or something would solve all these problems but would be very expensive. I did find a 7mgte + 5spd for 700 on craigs. Listing siad he got rear ended. Would this engine drop right in? It had 100k or so listing said. Maybe I could get that, give it to the shop to machine the block heads and seals and what not. Put it in, and later upgrade the turbo system.

My old car (chevy prizm) aka corolla. I can drive it, it's not mine though. My dad sad it'd take weeks to do the machining and everything on the engine, I thought that was a little ridiculous but then again I have no idea.

 

[Greatdestroyer187]

Yah its a drop in but u will also need the wire harness and ecu. Don't just offer him the $700 for it haggle wit him c if u can get it cheaper