yes the picture with the black sharpie writing on the coils. sorry about the double post, not trying to confuse you.
7MGE-T won't start
- Thread starter thenderson2011
- Start date
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=D&P=1
follow the tsrm to aid you in your diagnosis
you will want to check +B and +B1 for 12volts
then check your ground by doing a resistance check...test E1 for a ground
follow the tsrm to aid you in your diagnosis
you will want to check +B and +B1 for 12volts
then check your ground by doing a resistance check...test E1 for a ground
he is talking about the grounds on the lower right side of the intake, near where the 2 half's of the manifold meet. There is a grounding point. not sure if the ECU is grounded there but its a good place to check.thenderson2011;1844069 said:
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=149
B is the grounding spot
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=151
now read this
B is the grounding spot
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=151
now read this
Okay, I have the same numbers on my coils. what I'm saying is, for the plug marked 6, do I run that wire to cylinder 6. Sorry if i'm not being clear in what I'm trying to say here.
ok here ya go from looking at engine from the front bumper
cylinder numbers go as follow
CYLINDER #1 is the one all the way up front
CYLINDER #2 is beside cylinder 1
CYLINDER #3 is beside cylinder 2
CYLINDER #4 is beside cylinder 3
CYLINDER #5 is beside cylinder 4
CYLINDER #6 is at the back near firewall
spark plug wire for number 1 goes from cylinder 1(front of engine) to coil pack terminal labeled 1(coil pack on left side)
then so on and so forth
now that we got that cleared up
cylinder numbers go as follow
CYLINDER #1 is the one all the way up front
CYLINDER #2 is beside cylinder 1
CYLINDER #3 is beside cylinder 2
CYLINDER #4 is beside cylinder 3
CYLINDER #5 is beside cylinder 4
CYLINDER #6 is at the back near firewall
spark plug wire for number 1 goes from cylinder 1(front of engine) to coil pack terminal labeled 1(coil pack on left side)
then so on and so forth
now that we got that cleared up
lol just wanted to be a smart ass lol
oh and make sure the ignition is turned the on position when testing..always remove ground cable from battery when removing or installing ecu connectors
once you have confirmed you have the correct ground and voltage
then i would suspect your cps is not timed correctly(common issue people have a hard time correctly installing it)
i have not yet removed or installed a cps
but if you use the search button or google then im sure theres something out there with the info you need
oh and make sure the ignition is turned the on position when testing..always remove ground cable from battery when removing or installing ecu connectors
once you have confirmed you have the correct ground and voltage
then i would suspect your cps is not timed correctly(common issue people have a hard time correctly installing it)
i have not yet removed or installed a cps
but if you use the search button or google then im sure theres something out there with the info you need
jonahs_supra;1844093 said:
Haha alrighty. The CPS looks right, but I'll try taking it out and checking it.
I have a volt meter but i'm not really sure how to use it, i borrowed it from my grandpa so it didn't come with instructions or anything lol, so i'm not really sure what to look for or set when i'm checking the ecu grounds and stuff.
depending on which meter you have...so many different meters out there...from voltage meters to multimeter
either 1 will work
what you want to look for on the switch for settings is VDC...this stands for Voltage Direct Current(this is what you want)
most will have different ranges from 12volts to 200 volts
if you dont have a 12 volt setting but show 20V that will work too
normal car off voltage(with good battery) will have 11.6-12.6 volts
so set the meter to a setting above 12 volts...most meters have a 20v setting
heres a nice tutorial on how to use 1
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zb7WHaL_dz8&feature=related
either 1 will work
what you want to look for on the switch for settings is VDC...this stands for Voltage Direct Current(this is what you want)
most will have different ranges from 12volts to 200 volts
if you dont have a 12 volt setting but show 20V that will work too
normal car off voltage(with good battery) will have 11.6-12.6 volts
so set the meter to a setting above 12 volts...most meters have a 20v setting
heres a nice tutorial on how to use 1
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zb7WHaL_dz8&feature=related
This one is GB Instruments, GDT-11, and okay, I'll fiddle with it a little bit.
Thanks for your help man, I appreciate it.
Thanks for your help man, I appreciate it.
this is where my CPS is at installation. Not saying this is perfect but its a known good starting point. the bolt that secures the CPS is NOT going to be centered in the slot allocated. its going to be just off to the top. this must be done at "0" on the crank dampener. and obviously while your cams are in the proper spot.that was my old CPS.
Mine is at the edge of the gear, about an inch to the right of where your black mark is in the picture. and where exactly is the bolt that secures the cps?
edit : better description, if you were to rotate the cps counter clockwise about 10 degrees or so, it would be where mine is at TDC.
edit : better description, if you were to rotate the cps counter clockwise about 10 degrees or so, it would be where mine is at TDC.
jetjock;1844154 said:
What is MIL? and true, but it's giving code 11, which is momentary power loss to the ecu, if i remember correctly.
the bolt is the only one just to the left of the CPS its self.
no your cps orientation is just to the right probbaly just one noch on the cps cam gear, not a whole inch. i dont think this would cause a no start. i would check Jetjocks advice first.
no your cps orientation is just to the right probbaly just one noch on the cps cam gear, not a whole inch. i dont think this would cause a no start. i would check Jetjocks advice first.
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What exactly was jetjock suggesting I do? I have power to my ECU if I'm getting codes thrown right?
code 11 suggest u have a power problem. thou it is momentary, it still is a power problem.
it could be momintary at times and then just no power at others. bottom line is u need to solve this before continuing.
did u find the grounding spot on the intake?
it could be momintary at times and then just no power at others. bottom line is u need to solve this before continuing.
did u find the grounding spot on the intake?
if it gives u a warm and fuzzy, then adjust ur cps too.
ok re read your thread, did u check that the cam sprockets are installed properley on the cams? "center hole on both"
u sure you found a way around the theft system problem? dont assume anything, check u got spark again.
ok re read your thread, did u check that the cam sprockets are installed properley on the cams? "center hole on both"
u sure you found a way around the theft system problem? dont assume anything, check u got spark again.
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