so i talked to the same machine shop again and they're telling me $675-$750 for valve job/adjustment then idk for the gasket match. so i believe I'll be getting in touch with someone else.
7mge port/polish
- Thread starter 87'N/A
- Start date
well first they said it will be 300-750 and that they will have to do a valve job as well. so i asked just to make sure if the 300-750 was for the pnp and valve job then they said the valve job is 675-750. so do they have to do a valve job? all i want is for them to gasket match the intake ports.
The only major spot that needs work on any 7M I have ever been into
is the junction between the valve seat & port runner.
You will find a step there that will vary from one port to the next.
Straiten the seat/port missalienment up, and take out any major casting flaws in the rest of the port, and it will be good to go.
This is normally called 'pocket porting'.
Just remember, cut less, think more.
Blindly grinding away at something just for the sake of saying you did it, usually kills power..........
A 1/4 ball carbide cutter will work the best in a Dremmel.
They don't come with one, and will cost you about $10 extra.
Don't try to do one port completely, all at one time.
Pick a spot that needs attention in all the ports, and do just that spot on all 6 cylinders.
This will give a much more consistant outcome.
Wear safty goggles, because going to the emergency ward to get a shaving extracted will ruin your day.
I attach a shop-vac hose to the other end of what ever port I an doing, to help keep the area clean so I can see what is going on.
Some times I put a light right up to the other end of the port if visability is an issue.
To keep the cutter from plugging with aluminum, spray it every once in a while with WD-40.
And if it does plug up with aluminum, stop, and use an awl, or scribe to pluck the aluminum out of the teeth.
And need I say, find an old head, even a suck-ass nissan one, to practice on.
Make mistakes on it before learning the hard way on what was once a good head.
is the junction between the valve seat & port runner.
You will find a step there that will vary from one port to the next.
Straiten the seat/port missalienment up, and take out any major casting flaws in the rest of the port, and it will be good to go.
This is normally called 'pocket porting'.
Just remember, cut less, think more.
Blindly grinding away at something just for the sake of saying you did it, usually kills power..........
A 1/4 ball carbide cutter will work the best in a Dremmel.
They don't come with one, and will cost you about $10 extra.
Don't try to do one port completely, all at one time.
Pick a spot that needs attention in all the ports, and do just that spot on all 6 cylinders.
This will give a much more consistant outcome.
Wear safty goggles, because going to the emergency ward to get a shaving extracted will ruin your day.
I attach a shop-vac hose to the other end of what ever port I an doing, to help keep the area clean so I can see what is going on.
Some times I put a light right up to the other end of the port if visability is an issue.
To keep the cutter from plugging with aluminum, spray it every once in a while with WD-40.
And if it does plug up with aluminum, stop, and use an awl, or scribe to pluck the aluminum out of the teeth.
And need I say, find an old head, even a suck-ass nissan one, to practice on.
Make mistakes on it before learning the hard way on what was once a good head.