Ok I recently rebuilt my motor with stock rods, pistons, crank, etc. I'm running with my stock turbo with the waste gate shimmed about 9mm and I have a MBC adjusted all the way out, timing cranked to 20+ degrees advanced (to compensate for code 52), stock fuel system, ported head with cams. I had an oil leak and ran it low on oil now I have had rod knock for about 1200 hard pedal to the floor miles. The car still is running amazing (no traction in 1st spinning second and chirping third) also with the wastegate shimmed and the boost controller wide open my boost guage only reads 12-13 psi??????
7M Wont Die!!!
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Jesus God, fix the code 52 and timing, before you do a damn thing else, man!
And are you sure you have rod knock? It would get worse as you were 'spinning second' and would beat your bottom end to hell and back.
And are you sure you have rod knock? It would get worse as you were 'spinning second' and would beat your bottom end to hell and back.
this is just dumb, why would you want to do that to your engine? do you want to invest all the money into a rebuild.....again?
IwantMKIII said:
its already fucked so I figured I would just try to kill it and I will be building it better the next go around...and the rebuild didnt cost that much only like $2,000 on the entire teardown and rebuild.
and yes it is rod knock you can hear it through all the gears and while sitting still revving it... trust me I know what rod knock is I've had plenty of experience in picking up pieces of enging block up off the ground:icon_razz
^i wish i had $2000 to toss around and just take as a loss, not to mention the costs of the next build
dude that is awesome, your my idol, I thought I was the only one on these boards that like tearing shit up! Keep up the good work.
2543arvin said:
oh i've learned alot this one im trying to blow just so I can build it right insted of a budget build.
just take it out and rebuild it right this time, w/ 7m's if you dont do it right the first time you'll just keep doing it until you do it right. which wastes too much time and money.
m1supra said:
yeah this is going to cost you more than you think. It may not be rebuildable after this
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Eventually, the rod bearing could completely go, and that puts your rod through the side of the block... Engine block is completely toast then. Repair to your crank rod journal might be needed too, and that's not cheap, and takes time.
Fix your problems when you pull the motor. (Like your Knock sensor wires, and your knock sensors if they are bad.)
Fix your problems when you pull the motor. (Like your Knock sensor wires, and your knock sensors if they are bad.)
I think this will happen but hey man at least you'll have a cool Crank Inspection Window:naughty:Adjuster said:
yeah, go honda if u want to rape engine's 
Rebuild it now and you MAY save your crank and block, otherwise, those two grands of yours is not enought...
Rebuild it now and you MAY save your crank and block, otherwise, those two grands of yours is not enought...
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