there is a kit on IPPs web page(not to be confused with LIPP) to stroke out the 7m blocks.(http://www.importperformanceparts.net/ under toyota supra then youll see under the s section the stoker kit) i have never heard about these guys and have all ready try to buy a head from them. i called them a few days later cuz the head hadn't showed up and ask them when i could be expecting the head to be shipped out. they said "o yea we dont have any of those heads in stock", i got my money back with ez. all that aside, has any one heard of another place that has a stoker kit for the 7m? if i had the cash to try the stroke kit from IPP i would try it. hell, i got 2 blocks, just no money(ARMY pay). i would really like to punch the 7m out a lil. i am just want to fined some one that has use the stroke kit from IPP or another company and find out if it really is reliable for the 7m? so if any one knows of another company that sells a stroke kit and/or have stroked you 7m out, drop a line.
7m strocker kit?!?!?!
- Thread starter super supra dave
- Start date
I have the IPP stroker kit. You definatly should consider light weight pistons, rods, and the crank flycut to get your rotating masses down. And everything balanced. There is a few other things to consider also but you probably already know that.
what are the other thing too think of. are you talking about block life or oil probs? stuff like that?
You have to have some way to tune like a piggyback, i.e. Maft-Pro, to get the most out of everything. I think you can get by with the stock ecu, injectors, etc. But with spending those kind of bucks I would want to get the most out of the extra stroke, which means supporting mods. I went 60 over but I think I would have done 40 over the next time. The extra hp IPP advertises isn't much when you consider how much the kits cost, but with the mods to make everything work better you can get some decient numbers. I'm still tweeking mine, of course I'm NA and it takes a little more tweeking than turbossuper supra dave;1065333 said:
And yes the oil problems you have to address in any way you can, I spun a few rod bearings due to hard cornering and braking. I then added 2" to my oil pan and shimmed the oil pump. There is a few threads here that addresses doing the most you can to keep oil to the important parts, wish I knew about them before I did my build.
A lot to consider.
a stroker kit on a 7m is just askin for trouble IMO. It already has too long of a stroke hence the limited revving capabilities compared to that of a 1j or 2j
Have you thought of flycutting the crank? Mine weighed 5 lbs less than the stock one. Thats a lot less rotating masssuprarich;1065469 said:I am just finishing up a 97 mm stroke kit for someone overseas. Should work out very well for him. Here is a pic of one of my 97mm cranks before nitriding
If you can lessen the rotating masses, i.e. the pistons, rods and crank you can rev as high as you want to as long as you have the valve springs to handle it. I've seen 7200rpm and it still wanted to keep going. Of course if you keep running those rpms in a 7m, 1j or 2j, you're asking for trouble.IwantMKIII;1065463 said:
I swear,
Adjuster and myself don't post here for a while and everyone seems to have amnesia.
facts:
Myself and adjuster have been running stroker motor for the last two plus years. As a matter of fact me and him where the first to actually purchase a kit from them.
3.2L when all said and done.
Piggy backs. BIG NEGATIVE. Stand alone or don't bother. And specifically standalone with traction control. The 3.2L engine WILL smoke the tires all the way to 4th and regardless of what you think, smoke show at 60+ mph is not a fun thing or a very safe thing.
lots of little detail work inside of the motor due to the Pauter Rods being so big in the ass (crank side). Side of block has to be grinded some but the bigger issue is the oil pump drive shaft.
as for RPM. Hard to say as sustained is what really tells you what is going on but sustained 7000+ rpm, not happening unless you can rent a NASCAR track.
Adjuster and myself don't post here for a while and everyone seems to have amnesia.
facts:
Myself and adjuster have been running stroker motor for the last two plus years. As a matter of fact me and him where the first to actually purchase a kit from them.
3.2L when all said and done.
Piggy backs. BIG NEGATIVE. Stand alone or don't bother. And specifically standalone with traction control. The 3.2L engine WILL smoke the tires all the way to 4th and regardless of what you think, smoke show at 60+ mph is not a fun thing or a very safe thing.
lots of little detail work inside of the motor due to the Pauter Rods being so big in the ass (crank side). Side of block has to be grinded some but the bigger issue is the oil pump drive shaft.
as for RPM. Hard to say as sustained is what really tells you what is going on but sustained 7000+ rpm, not happening unless you can rent a NASCAR track.
AJ'S 88NA;1065485 said:Have you thought of flycutting the crank? Mine weighed 5 lbs less than the stock one. Thats a lot less rotating mass
Yes, I do that as well when requested. The most recent crank has been trimmed by 5 lbs and knife edged. I will post a pick of it.
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