7M-GTE what head gasket should i get????

Apr 26, 2006
55
0
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Australia
Hello everyone, it's been ages since i been on here again (shame on me).

Anyway as the title states i need a new head gasket for my 7M-GTE, the old one that was replaced 30.000kms ago has started to leak into the cylinder head:cry: So i have got ARP head bolts and there in already but didn't fix the leak, so now i gotta do the gasket again. This time i want to do it right with a goooooood head gasket that will last me ages.

So if anyone could tell me whats a good head gasket to get for a 7M-GTE and were to get them from would be fantastic, and in Australia would be even better, even tho i got the ARP bolts from the states.

I need to get it back on the road again real soon, and rego is coming up, and i miss driving it.

Thanks :icon_bigg
 

hvyman

Dang Dude! No Way Man.
Staff member
Apr 17, 2007
12,568
1
0
Fullerton,CA
a metal hg but you'll need to machine both the head and block and measure how much material has been taken off to get the right sized hg for the compression ratio.

titanmotorsports.com
horsepowerfreaks.com
935motorsports.com
driftmotion.com

just a few. theres more sites out there.
 
Apr 26, 2006
55
0
0
Australia
hvyman;1248719 said:
a metal hg but you'll need to machine both the head and block and measure how much material has been taken off to get the right sized hg for the compression ratio.

titanmotorsports.com
horsepowerfreaks.com
935motorsports.com
driftmotion.com

just a few. theres more sites out there.

Thanks for the info, i originally put a metal hg on the car 5yrs ago or so, so im now looking for something better, anything that will last for awhile. Im running stock boost, nothing high, id like to push it higher but not since it keeps killing gaskets. The head will be sent away and crack tested and also machined, the block on the other hand i don't think so =/ i cant afford that lol

LilMissMkIII;1248720 said:
http://www.supramania.com/forums/search.php?searchid=1881962

Have a read through the threads in there :)

I got my Titan 2mm hg from a bloke on Toymods... There are gaskets and gasket sets up for sale on there regularly :)

Thanks dude for the link and the info :) i will look into the Titan gasket sets and see what i can do.

I want the gasket, a good one fast, like in a week would be good lol
 

grimreaper

New Member
Jul 2, 2008
2,180
0
0
Dallas
a mhg should not have failed on stock levels, was it prepped correctly?

the hks stopper is the end all hg. The prep work has to be PERFECT. I have the stopper and its held up perfectly so far.
 

Kangae

Buzzin' Half Dozen
Sep 13, 2007
249
0
0
Utica, New York
grimreaper;1248933 said:
a mhg should not have failed on stock levels, was it prepped correctly?

the hks stopper is the end all hg. The prep work has to be PERFECT. I have the stopper and its held up perfectly so far.

+1, also it probably wouldn't be the best idea to get the head sent out to get prepped and not the block, it needs to seat well on both sides.
 

2543arvin

Moving to Japan!!!
Nov 30, 2006
879
0
0
Jacksonville, NC
Well, if you cant afford to send the block out to get prepped, then you would be wasting your money on prepping the head and buying the new headgasket. It doesnt matter what kind of headgasket you get if you dont make sure the surfaces are prepped.

I have a Cometic MHG and got the head and block prepped, and torqued it down with some ARP headstuds. I run ~ 17 psi and havent had any problems thus far.

Take your time and do it right, and you'll appreciate it when its done.
 
Apr 26, 2006
55
0
0
Australia
grimreaper;1248933 said:
a mhg should not have failed on stock levels, was it prepped correctly?

the hks stopper is the end all hg. The prep work has to be PERFECT. I have the stopper and its held up perfectly so far.

Indeed it shouldn't of failed :3d_frown: but the guy i got to get it done did a crap job, as i found out after, the head wasn't sent away to be tested (alloy heads warp) and he didn't tighten the head down as i told him to tot he right torque settings, but i must admit was on stock head bolts back then.

The HKS stopper? can you direct me to this hg? id like to see it and cost, thanks :)

Kangae;1249026 said:
+1, also it probably wouldn't be the best idea to get the head sent out to get prepped and not the block, it needs to seat well on both sides.

Yea ok ill look into getting the block ready as well, i just have never really heard of anyone getting the block sent away as well to be done unless you going to race the thing, as the block should not be out of line etc been cast iron, the head yes i can understand been alloy. But ill see what they say about it and go from there and get prices.

O by the way like ya cars on the side< my dad owns a 1993 LS 400 love that car, thats what i plan on getting next :naughty:

2543arvin;1249145 said:
Well, if you cant afford to send the block out to get prepped, then you would be wasting your money on prepping the head and buying the new headgasket. It doesnt matter what kind of headgasket you get if you dont make sure the surfaces are prepped.

I have a Cometic MHG and got the head and block prepped, and torqued it down with some ARP headstuds. I run ~ 17 psi and havent had any problems thus far.

Take your time and do it right, and you'll appreciate it when its done.

Yea i know, but as i said to kangae ^ i just haven't really seen it been done unless you are running high boost or going to race the car. The block should be fine, flat , smooth and no warping, but i can understand a quick shave of the block to make sure its dead flat. But ill look into it and see what i can do, all comes down to price, and i plan to sell the car in about a yr or so anyway, getting married soon in the next yr so ill need a family car :3d_frown: lol

Cometic hg? can you direct me to one of those so i can also have a look and see prices etc? Thanks. 17psi is a good boost, whats the horse power you are getting at the flywheel?
 

Who

Supramania Contributor
Use the toyota composite gasket and copper spray. Its very forgiving when you don't prep the block. You are throwing away money with any mhg you use if you only do half of the job and guess that the block is up to specs. IMHO
 
Apr 26, 2006
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Australia
7Mboost;1249395 said:
Cheap, fast, reliable- pick 2. If you cheap out, you'll yield the same results.

Cheap and reliable as i just cant afford to get the block shaved, that would mean id have to take the engine out and ship it to a different city, and or take the car there, which means id have to trailer it up there. It will cost me around $1300 to do what i want to do and that about all i can afford, if i wanted to get the block done double it easy if not more. Just remember her in Australia everything cost double the cost then the states. So i just cant simply afford getting the block done, what im about to do is the best i can do with what money i have and i need the car on the road.

If i got 5yrs last time, then this time i should get 10yrs this time with what prep will be done don't you think?
 

johnathan1

Supra =
Aug 19, 2005
5,056
1
36
36
Downey, California, United States
If you aren't planning on making huge power, then a stock head gasket from the DEALER will be fine. Just get the head machined, and it should be good for a while. I replaced mine about 20k miles ago, and it has been fine. I'm also at almost 300whp with an upgraded turbo, and I drive it pretty hard. lol.
 
Apr 26, 2006
55
0
0
Australia
Ok well i have got the head done and replaced the head gasket, a metal head gasket from the machinist that skimmed the head that he recommended for this engine, Injectors done, and cams redone as well. There was a indent on the head that was around the area where the gasket sealed to the head, tsk tsk, so we found the problem =/

Anyway put all back together and runs smooth and nice from the word go, but has one slight weird problem. Under boost or under load with boost starting to kick in it runs hesitant, like it wants to go, but then backs off and does this over and over again, but only under boost. Also the turbo sounds different when i back off under boost, in stead of getting the funny sound turbos do, as in woosh woosh woosh as it spins down, (hard to explain on here) it just one big woosh and thats it, like a big ex hail of air you know?

If anyone knows what courses this? like the timing out a bit or something not connected right, anything at all so we can get it to run smooth under boost would be great. and get my cool turbo sound back when i back off under boost, it sounds crap now.
 

sneakypete

Regular Member
Jul 18, 2007
1,129
0
0
Central NJ
im sure the car is running fine right now... but since the block wasnt decked and/or lapped, dont expect the gasket to last. keep stock boost or less to make it last.
the sound your talking about is probably your bypass valve (BOV). check the TSRM to see if its functioning properly... if not, then replace it
-pete
 
Apr 26, 2006
55
0
0
Australia
sneakypete;1279401 said:
im sure the car is running fine right now... but since the block wasnt decked and/or lapped, dont expect the gasket to last. keep stock boost or less to make it last.
the sound your talking about is probably your bypass valve (BOV). check the TSRM to see if its functioning properly... if not, then replace it
-pete

The block is fine, it was checked and it was fine, as i said above we found what the problem was and it has been fixed. The gasket will last ages now, since the other one lasted 5yrs and well it wasn't even the gasket that failed it was that there was a indent in the head that started to leek water into the head as the head was not tightened down much past stock settings. Now that the head has been machined and a new Metal HG put on with the ARP head bolts it will last ages on standard boost, will even hold more im sure of it.

As for the hesitant problem on boost it was the cold start injector staying on and flooding the system, as the computer was trying to compensate for the extra fuel, making it run terrible under boost. Once this was disconnected it ran perfectly. In time we will try to figure out why it did this and make it run as it was before.
 

CyFi6

Aliens.
Oct 11, 2007
2,972
0
36
Phoenix
www.google.com
Just because the deck is flat doesn't mean its fine. These old engines witht he stock head gaskets leave indentations in the block deck that are hardly visible unless you look extremely close. It just happens there's nothing you can do besides machining to get the deck how it needs to be. Also, the head must be a certain smoothness otherwise it also will not seal. Just getting it machined is not going to do any good if its machined to chebby standards where it needs "grab". Thats not how an MLS works.
 
Apr 26, 2006
55
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0
Australia
JMofIRW;1280135 said:
You're using a MHG and didnt pull the engine to get the block machined?

Yep thats right, no way in the world i was going to afford getting the block skimmed, as it cost me $1700 to do what has been done, and that was even 400-500 over my budget :3d_frown: So what i have done is the best i can do with what cash i have. Getting the block done would of doubled the price.
 
Apr 26, 2006
55
0
0
Australia
CyFi6;1280141 said:
Just because the deck is flat doesn't mean its fine. These old engines witht he stock head gaskets leave indentations in the block deck that are hardly visible unless you look extremely close. It just happens there's nothing you can do besides machining to get the deck how it needs to be. Also, the head must be a certain smoothness otherwise it also will not seal. Just getting it machined is not going to do any good if its machined to chebby standards where it needs "grab". Thats not how an MLS works.

I can understand it with the head as it is made out of alot softer metal, but with a cast iron block my god the indent that would be in the block would be so small that the human eye could not see this, it was checked with a ruler and was perfectly flat, the head had the indent and it was very noticeable as we both think the previous mechanic did it using a die grinder wile getting the old HG off :3d_frown: total idiot.