If it's been torqued down and ran chances are the Viton WILL lift in a few places so be prepared with some paint thinner and Copper spray.
7M-GTE torque numbers.. 80 lb/ft or higher?
- Thread starter paul0075
- Start date
You don't have to remove the head if it's only the rear timing cover leaking because of no sealant. You can remove the rear timing cover, and apply a copious amount of sealant to the top of the timing cover, and carefully reinstall it. I did it with my build, and it worked perfectly, No Leak. And if you're going to use the Permatex, I definitely recommend using the Right Stuff sealant. It's worked wonders for me, and I feel it compares favorably with Toyota FIPG.
P.S. Anyone who wants to flame me for saying this, is welcome to come to my house, and verify that my engine is not leaking.
P.S. Anyone who wants to flame me for saying this, is welcome to come to my house, and verify that my engine is not leaking.
Just got back from the mechanic shop..
The car runs good with a little idle issue, but the engine sounds very good, no white or blue smoke coming from the exhaust..
My mechanic did use a sealant for the timing cover..
We will remove the head and send it to the machine shop to check and make sure they did the right job.
Also, once that is done, we will make sure that we use Prematex or FIPG.
Thanks,
Paul
The car runs good with a little idle issue, but the engine sounds very good, no white or blue smoke coming from the exhaust..
My mechanic did use a sealant for the timing cover..
We will remove the head and send it to the machine shop to check and make sure they did the right job.
Also, once that is done, we will make sure that we use Prematex or FIPG.
Thanks,
Paul
paul0075;1333447 said:
I had an idle issue right after my rebuild, turned out to be coil related. I replace my whole coil pack assembly, including wires, and no more idle issue. I could be as simple as that for you too.
rayall01;1333923 said:
Ok thanks for the heads up.
I also, replaced all the wires and spark plugs... I will check more things and if it goes down to the coil pack, I will definitely replace it.
Thanks
Get your facts straight when you post in the Tech Section Colin.
On an aluminum head, ARP limits torque to 75 ft/lbs...per the spec sheet
On an aluminum head, ARP limits torque to 75 ft/lbs...per the spec sheet
Gotcha, I knew I read it was on that sheet, but didn't realize they had that amendment below it for Aluminum.
What's a bit odd is it only applies to bolts, not studs. Only thing I can come up with for a reason is the bolts are under more twisting force vs studs.
I found this thread when I searched for head torque with ARP studs. I currently have my head torqued to 75 ft/lbs, and my question is, should I go the extra 10 to 85 ft/lbs, or is 75 a safe value? I keep seeing both values pop up, and I'm thinking 75 would be best, but would like some input. Thanks for your help.
-AM3
-AM3
I would use the recommended Arp value, which is 75 lbs. You can always do a retorque for piece of mind, though I doubt the values would change. They certainly didn't on mine after I used the Arp hardware. I had cycled them 4 or 5 times before final install however. gl.