I have had stock setup with NGK Iridiums, I have basic tuning parts and run only 10psi on 93 octane, no problems, no fouling, no missing.
7M-GTE Ignition Upgrade
- Thread starter MA70witBoost
- Start date
I have a brand new Dis4 in it's box here that I'll sell for half price if anyone is interested. (These things will fire the plugs under water)
$270 Shipped.
Drop me a PM if anyone wants it!
$270 Shipped.
Drop me a PM if anyone wants it!
This is a tech thread, please keep that stuff out. We have a for sale section, I'll gladly hold your hand and walk you over to it :biglaugh:IJ. said:
JUST KIDDING :icon_razz
I'm not running a stock ECU, I was told that the earlier problems have been ironed out. I guesss we will see...mk3ukr said:
Well, my goal at the moment is just to put as many bolt on's as possible, then get it running and take it to titan motorsports to have the emanage installed/tuned. Everything in the engine bay will be after marked (so i have planned) excepts for the 7M-GTE w/ will be running on stock internals. Looking to make around 400rwhp... maybe 500. I just want dont want any problems later down the road...
MA70witBoost said:
might want to look at forged internals then, if you want a reliable and fast car.
even if i have my wastegate shimmed at 10psi and the cars tuned? I dont intend on increasing boost past 10psi for now... Just to have the supra as a quick daily. Later when I got the money to buy the internals, then i'll park it, build up the motor, throw a boost controler on it and id imagine im good to go...
MA70witBoost said:
Id at least look into some new pistons (IJ had a good deal going) and some new bearings.
i wouldnt trust stock over 400whp with stock pistons that are old and tired. something tells me that you wont see 400 on only 10psi as well, at least on a ct26, not upgraded.
Platinum and iridium melt easier if you get on the lean side, coppers survive better. I run Autolite AR3923's also.
Well i shouldn't be running on the lean side... Im investing in a wideband a/f gauge and my cars gonna run tuned. My CT26 also's been upgraded. No shaft play and it has an upgrade 60-2 trim compressor wheel to help exaust gasses get out. turbo's good for up to 22psi.
While copper has a much lower melting point that Pt or Ir, it also has a higher thermal conductivity. Hard to say whether the better thermal conductivity would offset the lower melting point. A Cu/Pt/Ir alloy would probably have the best of both worlds.
Melting points:
Copper: 1085 degC
Platinum: 1769 degC
Iridium: 2446 degC
Thermal Conductivity:
Cu: 401 W·m−1·K−1
Pt:71.6 W·m−1·K−
Ir 147 W·m−1·K−1
Melting points:
Copper: 1085 degC
Platinum: 1769 degC
Iridium: 2446 degC
Thermal Conductivity:
Cu: 401 W·m−1·K−1
Pt:71.6 W·m−1·K−
Ir 147 W·m−1·K−1
I found at high boost sustained top end runs the IR's would overheat and glowplug causing a miss!
so autolite copper as opposed to the NGK Iridiums? I was hoping on being able to have a reliable 7M w/o having to throw the rediculously large amounts of money required to upgrade the bottom end. Shoot, engine interals are expensive. Not to mention Im still a noob when it comes to engine internals so i wouldn't know really what to get. I've been looking around at prices ever since the forged internal thing got brought up and Suprastore has a what looks like a decent block package (IMO) but its a bit pricey at $1,595 for just Eagle Connecting Rods, CP .20 over size Pistons, Custom piston rings, Clevite 77 Bearing kit which includes the trust washer, Rod and Main bearings. And sadly i doubt the money will stop there.
What are your goals, there are people running 10 sec on stock rods shot peened! The bottom end is already over engineered from the factory, just replace pistons/rings bearings, shot peen the rods and have it balanced.
Well im not sure what i want the car for yet... I want it as a daily for a while... but to live up to the supra name.... in other words, i want a fast daily. Not looking to set any track records but atleast would like to run low 11's. The head gasket went on my motor. It had an HKS 1.2mm MHG, ARP Head Studs and the head was Port & Polished... I had originally planned on replacing everything on the motor w/ a bolt on, break in the motor, go to titan motorsports (im in miami, they are in orlando) and have them install my emanage and tune it and leave the wastegate shimmed at 10psi till i could afford to park the car again and do a performance rebuild on the motor and install an ebc... go all out (trailer queen)
If you had a BHG with hks metal and arp studs, you prob have a warped head or bad surfacing on head/block, you need them machined. You can get in the 13's with a ct, 11's will take a good bit of work, good luck with your project!