7m going into machine shop What Do I need to know

[92TealSupra]

Build is on hold now! I just picked up a '88 Hardtop turbo 5-speed today for 500.00! I am going to work on it a little and if everything really is bad as they say it is I will be parting it out!

 

[Rennat]

I am glad someone asked this because I am buying a 7MGTE engine tomorrow, Friday April 3, and it is going to the machine shop.

Just help me out to make sure I got everything from this thread and fully understand it.

1) I am going to use Wiseco Pistons, .40 over, from Titan MotorSport. Using Stock Rods.
Dont be cheap, get some eagle rods, there like 400-500 from suprarich... i got mine for 400shipped... so yeah. and try to locate a torque plate... if you dont know what one is, do more research and the effects it gives to the engine.

2) When giving them the block, leave the fron't timing cover on and make sure the tensioner is torqued to 36ft/lbs? YES

3) Having the crank machined with new rod and main bearing, any tips?
only go .10 over if possible, and if you have the money get the whole rotating assembly balanced, its worth it in the long run.

4) I am going to be using a metal head gasket. From what I have read, I should buy that at last. How do I know what thickness to get? I understand about have the block prepped from the headgasket, but how do I know what thickness after knowing the amount that was shaved off?
ask the machine shop to tell you, they should be keeping track how much they shave off, but if you want to buy everything right now, running a 1.4 or a 2mm will be fine, you wont notice the differenece... just make sure you get a good one, HKS, cometic, titan....

5) The head is going to be ported and polished, any tips? How hard are the valve seals to change? I have access to a world of tools.
valve stem seals are SUPER easy to change, just need a valve spring compressor, the c-clamp type, and a good set of needle nose and a 14mm socket to push the new ones on... but the machine shop could do this faster and easier, but they fucked mine up! haha. if you do it yourself, then lap the valves too while you have it apart to make sure you have a good seal.

The guys who I am getting this engine from said that the engine has lifter tap. I went to Toyota and a guy that has been working with Toyota's for twenty years said that he has never sold anything concering lifters and the 7MGTE does not have those problems.
its probably rod knock in all honesty... but it could be a shim thats too thin, but if you have a set of the measuring shim thing... i dont know the exact name for it, but its a bunch of little strips of metal all in different sizes to see the clearance between the shim and the cam lobe.

I also read here,, what someone posted, that these engine don't lifters. WTF, who is right? Thanks.
no lifters, springs, retainers, seats, locks, bucket, and a shim... NO lifters what so ever...

edited to make it readable IJ

 

[IBoughtASupra]

Dude....Thanks a lot.

 

[FlipSupra8]

feeler gauge is what hes taling about 2 measure the shim..but thats one thing i need 2 know...how do u meausre it...i gotta take valve covers off? cuz i have a tapping sound too...but no rod knock

 

[rawmk3]

feeler gauge is what hes taling about 2 measure the shim..but thats one thing i need 2 know...how do u meausre it...i gotta take valve covers off? cuz i have a tapping sound too...but no rod knock

Remove the valve covers and while the valve is closed and the lobe is up, slide your feeler gauge into the opening and get the size. You should have .006-.010 on the intake side for clearance, and .008-.012 on the exhaust side for clearance. If you do not, then the shim will probably need to be replaced.

Down side is if your shim needs to be replaced, check your cam lobe for wear on it, as you may need to replace cams too.

If my clearances are off please let me know, as that is what my research has shown me thus far.

 

[paradox616]

Build is on hold now! I just picked up a '88 Hardtop turbo 5-speed today for 500.00! I am going to work on it a little and if everything really is bad as they say it is I will be parting it out!

i did a rebuilt using the parts you mentioned,

pistons came poorly shipped (im in aus to they were air shipped) still could have been packaged better. had minor damage on them nothing that mattered after my builder inspected it.

my engine builder said the pistons were "old style" but manufactured correctly and weren't crap.. stock pistons appeared yellowly gold, these are pure alloy
must be a coating on the pistons some kind of thermal barrier

FYI, i used duct tape on my block surface to prevent contaminants from entering whilst i was not working on it, some adhesive stuck to the deck giving it a "scuffed" appearance
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c295/paradox616/SDC12438.jpg


So id say copied after the std pistons.

my builder measured the bores and told me 20thou was the correct thickenss, then i ordered the pistons. once he had the pistons he bored to suit resulting in a perfect fit. bearing clearance on the ACL appears good and within spec, they sent out a diffrent brand thrust washer but it was ok..

i used a 74thou thick (1.85mm) "86mm bore"
my bore is now 86.5mm

the cometic's suit pistons up to 88mm as the fire ring is slightly larger...

my motors not running yet but i will let you know the results..

 

[DangoAZ]

Paradox - Your finish looks great on that deck. Nice and shiny. You should really clean off all of that adhesive from the tape before you put your head on... It should come off pretty easy with some acetone, isopropyl alcohol, or brake cleaner and a little elbow grease with a clean rag. Harsh solvent and non-linting rag that does not leave anything behind is key.

And when people are talking about RA - That stands for Roughness Average. It is defined in micro-inches. It is an average of the height of the "peaks and valleys" that are made by really small scratches in the metal... So when someone says "40 RA", it means a average of 40 micro-inches of surface scratches or swirl marks.