Rebuilding my 1987 7M-GE auto due to blown head gasket of course. Gonna do the works; machine work on block and head if need be. Gonna get crank checked and polish, reusing connecting rods recondition, new bearings, new rings, etc. I'll be using ARP headstuds with factory washers as per previous post on here. Torqued headstuds sequence 20,40,60,80 ft lbs. My question is can I reuse main cap bolts and connecting rods bolts? Very difficult to find brand new factory bolts. Watched a video on how using arp rods bolts changed clearance specs on connecting rods. I assume the same will be for the main caps.
7M-GE main cap bolts and connecting rod bolts reusable?
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I reused my main bolts and connecting rod bolts with absolutely no issue, following the TSRM instructions for a rebuild on my GE back in...08-09? Put about 40k on it before I pulled it for a GTE swap. Now I need to find the GE a new home since it's just sitting in the corner of the shop taking up room.
Great. Looking for new oem bolts is tricky and using arp for main and rods will likely change clearances. Did something happen to the GE at 40k? Or did you just want more power?
I don't know if it's necessarily true that using ARP for main caps will change clearances. Their rod bolt kit instructions do say that connecting rods should be re-sized after installation since those are press-fit, but the main caps just drop right over the ARP studs.
The GE was still in excellent shape. I had installed ARP studs and an upgraded Driftmotion oil pump and feed line in case I wanted to go NA-T down the road, but I lucked out and found a '90 Turbo that just showed up at the junkyard so I pulled and swapped.
The GE was still in excellent shape. I had installed ARP studs and an upgraded Driftmotion oil pump and feed line in case I wanted to go NA-T down the road, but I lucked out and found a '90 Turbo that just showed up at the junkyard so I pulled and swapped.
Gotcha. Yeah I was watching this video where they compared stock rod bolts to arp and the rods did need to be resized with arp bolts. I just assumed the same for Main cap bolts. This is good information, it'll help with my build.
Going GTE is nicer. Rather than na-t. Takes the guess work out and parts seem to favor GTE.
I was happy to find a complete engine, ECU, etc. so the swap would be straightforward. Much nicer to keep everything lined up with the service manuals and not use workarounds.
There isn't much to be done for the GE to make power. As far as parts, almost everything can be swapped between the two except things like pistons, injectors, possibly exhaust camshaft and of course, the exhaust manifold. Intake is slightly different as well. GTE block had oil squirters, but plenty have used GE blocks with turbos.
I believe someone on here (Defiant?) was building a 101mm stroke GE, but the thread might've been lost. It was a cool build.
There isn't much to be done for the GE to make power. As far as parts, almost everything can be swapped between the two except things like pistons, injectors, possibly exhaust camshaft and of course, the exhaust manifold. Intake is slightly different as well. GTE block had oil squirters, but plenty have used GE blocks with turbos.
I believe someone on here (Defiant?) was building a 101mm stroke GE, but the thread might've been lost. It was a cool build.
You can reuse your old fasteners or use ARP versions in all positions. The torque specification doesn't change for connecting rod or main caps. That video you saw sounds misleading. One problem I did have with the ARP main cap stud nuts was that the oil sump pickup tube was hitting one of them and I couldn't tighten the pump all the way down. What I ended up doing was modifying the sump pickup by putting a dent in it and grinding away a bit of the flange. If you want to be exacting, or just want peace of mind, you can check the oil clearances with plastigauge. ARP head stud nuts require a thin wall 14 mm socket with 3/8 drive. Craftsman makes one that works. You can pick one up on eBay for $6 delivered.Click here to go there.
The picture size mm may not match what you're getting. Parameters to enter: 3/8, deep, 12 point, 14mm 50671. It can handle 90 foot-pounds.
The picture size mm may not match what you're getting. Parameters to enter: 3/8, deep, 12 point, 14mm 50671. It can handle 90 foot-pounds.
The video I saw, the guy was using rods from a mustang and he measured using inside micrometer. Wasn't anything crazy it was just off by like a thousands of an inch or something in that parameter. It's reassuring to hear that I can reuse old bolts. I do indeed intend on using a plastiguage when check clearances.
Since the rod bolts press in, they stand a chance of deforming the conrods. Hence the ARP instructions to resize once they're in.
A thou is actually pretty significant when talking about bearing clearance. Here's the factory spec, so you're basically shooting for 1-2 thou clearance to match the standard.
And here's the exploded view, showing that both the main and rod bolts are alright to use again:
Gotcha. Seeing it in animation makes more sense now. Of course you can reuse bolts, because after checking clearances you would have to reuse bolts for final assembly. I have the official toyota 87 supra service manual and I have gendered at that page. I'm getting ahead of myself. The engine is still sitting on the engine stand. Waiting to be dissambled.
Some fasteners are torque-to-yield, or locking by distorting the threads. These are just plain old bolts, so you're good to reuse them if they come off easy and you don't see any visible signs of stretching or necking.
Time to tear into it. There was some discussion of the crank being surface- or case-hardened and that by grinding the journals it would ruin the crank, but my GE crank was cut undersize and had no issues with it. I read about that a few years after I had the machine shop perform the work so I never followed up on it properly.
Time to tear into it. There was some discussion of the crank being surface- or case-hardened and that by grinding the journals it would ruin the crank, but my GE crank was cut undersize and had no issues with it. I read about that a few years after I had the machine shop perform the work so I never followed up on it properly.
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