7M-GE "Factory Refurbished" engine

[D TR41N]

I read a bunch of the FAQ articles and one had something about rebuilt 7M-GTE engines not needing a retorque(for the head). My neighbor is the guy that sold me my supra. He had a factory refurbished engine put in at 60k miles (car currently has 91thousand on it). My questions is do i need to retorque the head? A dealership did the swap so I'm not sure where exactly the refurb engine would have come from but I can only guess a toyota certified refurbish center or something. Any thoughts?

 

[JDMMA70]

Id retorque it factory torque specs i believe are 55ft lbs. Id retorque it to 75 or 80ft lbs. thats as long as your head is blown

 

[D TR41N]

Id retorque it factory torque specs i believe are 55ft lbs. Id retorque it to 75 or 80ft lbs. thats as long as your head is blown

I didn't want to start a new thread so I'm bringing this one back up. I was reading on a few BHG jobs that it's not smart to use the stock bolts for the head, and that you should get ARP bolts, but wouldn't putting new bolts in require a new head gasket because the seal would be broken? (I heard you shouldn't use the stock bolts because they will not hold up the the torque or they will strip)

 

[suprarx7nut]

I didn't want to start a new thread so I'm bringing this one back up. I was reading on a few BHG jobs that it's not smart to use the stock bolts for the head, and that you should get ARP bolts, but wouldn't putting new bolts in require a new head gasket because the seal would be broken? (I heard you shouldn't use the stock bolts because they will not hold up the the torque or they will strip)

False.

If the headgasket on there now has low mileage, I'd consider a retorque, otherwise leave it be and prepare for it to blow.

The head studs offered from ARP give you a more precise torque reading and will hold like crazy. For a regular N/A the stock headbolts work just fine. That being said, I got the head studs because they are very reusable and I wasn't sure if the stock headbolts on my car had ever been overtorqued or if they had stretched over 18 years and 275k miles.

 

[D TR41N]

False.

If the headgasket on there now has low mileage, I'd consider a retorque, otherwise leave it be and prepare for it to blow.

The head studs offered from ARP give you a more precise torque reading and will hold like crazy. For a regular N/A the stock headbolts work just fine. That being said, I got the head studs because they are very reusable and I wasn't sure if the stock headbolts on my car had ever been overtorqued or if they had stretched over 18 years and 275k miles.

So essentially it's just removing the valve cover and torquing in the correct order? (And prob. replacing the valve cover gaskets and the intake manifold gasket?)

 

[AJ'S 88NA]

So essentially it's just removing the valve cover and torquing in the correct order? (And prob. replacing the valve cover gaskets and the intake manifold gasket?)

There's several threads on this, you have to "crack" the bolts loose with a breaker bar and then torque them.

 

[suprarx7nut]

So essentially it's just removing the valve cover and torquing in the correct order? (And prob. replacing the valve cover gaskets and the intake manifold gasket?)

Yes. You just need to break them loose with about an 1/8 turn and then torque them down like AJ said.

 

[Nick M]

Check with parts, but Toyota doesn't sell reman's as far as I know. They will be happy to sell you a new shortblock for 2500 or so.

 

[cuel]

They probably sent the block out to be rebuilt, or had a top tech do it. Do the bolts one at a time, starting from the middle, and working your way out, according to the torque sequence in the tsrm. Stock torque is 58 ft. lbs.(http://cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=EM&P=55). I'd retorque it if it was my motor, seeing it has low miles. You got the paperwork from when the engine was replaced?