7m ffim using 1jz manifold?
- Thread starter dmiller
- Start date
dmiller;1417722 said:
as far a i know the only way to do so is to use the 7m runners and cut and welt it on to the 1jz intake. to be honest it would be easier just to make your own.
I dont think it would be easier to make your own as you already have everything you need. You just have to be able to weld alumn..
It would be interesting to see how far apart the runners are on the 7m compared to the 1jz though, it would be easy to cut and weld both but if they didnt line up close it wouldnt be worth it.
And you also have to consider parts costs... Im not sure how much 1jz manifolds are - if you an find them even, but 2jz manifolds ive seen go from $200-250. Plus the cost of labor assuming that you cant weld aluminum yourself and cut the runners flat. Total cost around $400-500+.. And you can find a custom made new one on here for a little more than that.
It would be interesting to see how far apart the runners are on the 7m compared to the 1jz though, it would be easy to cut and weld both but if they didnt line up close it wouldnt be worth it.
And you also have to consider parts costs... Im not sure how much 1jz manifolds are - if you an find them even, but 2jz manifolds ive seen go from $200-250. Plus the cost of labor assuming that you cant weld aluminum yourself and cut the runners flat. Total cost around $400-500+.. And you can find a custom made new one on here for a little more than that.
7m - 1j comparison.....if you weld the 7m runners to the 1j plennum, it puts the plennum waaayyy close to the fuel rail. I made a custom lower runner 7m-2j so I can run a 2j intake. Parts, fabrication and relocation of things, I should have just bought one from a member here making them. Cost was the same if not more.
bryanintexas;1418431 said:
7m - 1j comparison.....if you weld the 7m runners to the 1j plennum, it puts the plennum waaayyy close to the fuel rail. I made a custom lower runner 7m-2j so I can run a 2j intake. Parts, fabrication and relocation of things, I should have just bought one from a member here making them. Cost was the same if not more.
So i'm guessing that guy that was making the FFIM's doesn't anymore ?
here if your interested
suprasport.com has a lipp ffim for the 7m
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=6519
http://rossmachineracing.com/
suprasport.com has a lipp ffim for the 7m
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=6519
http://rossmachineracing.com/
$1,000.00 for a Intake manifold..No way bro,
I'd rather upgrade my turbo with that kind of money.
I'd rather upgrade my turbo with that kind of money.
yeah the one from suprasport is pricey but nice, but ron r. makes nice ffims also...yeah a turbo upgrade would be a good upgrade first
sethron71;1423153 said:
Your work is beautiful. The only problem is that im a sophmore in high school without any money. Im trying to get a job. I purchased a 1jz manifold for $60 and ill see how it matches up when i get it.
dmiller;1423168 said:
Haha yea I understand thats actually how I came to start making manifolds! No money so had to find away to make my own parts and now I am here 6 years later! Anyways as mentioned make sure he is a good welder as welding 20 year old cast metal is a nightmare! And not to sound negative but I am guessing you are going to have $400-$500 in labor by the time you are done. With a welding/fabing shop rate of $75/hr you will be there in a heart beat. Lots of work mating the two! But good luck!
Seth
sethron71;1423153 said:
lol, nice self promoting there bud. =]
slow_yota;1423468 said:
Gotta do what you gotta do, just lets people know I am here to help. I have tried a whole lot of things since my FFIM so I have a pretty good base of knowledge. Enough to know that I will soon be away from using any of the stock/cast parts and just have a line of CNCed pieces cause working with oil soaked cast aluminum is miserable and dirty!
Seth
dmiller;1423615 said:
lol..Alright bud.Im a very good Mig short circuit and Axial spray arc Welder but even i would be scared to mess with Tig'ing cast aluminum, The metal is brittle and Tig is an art.
Seth just curious, Do you pre heat and post heat your cast aluminum ?
slow_yota;1423831 said:
Just preheat it and if it is in the winter and the shop is cold I will sometimes put if in a warm oven to cool down but during the summer I just let it cool at ambient temp.
As mentioned good luck, I have tigged for 6 years now and can still be better. Try practicing for 100 hrs on useless stuff before you even mess with a cast piece. The inconsistencies will eat you alive and you will end up with a puddle of goooo of a manifold lol. Not saying I am a master at all but it has taken me a lot of practice to get where I am now!
HTH,
Seth
sethron71;1423839 said:
well i still have to save up $300 for an intercooler and however much pipes will be so ill have time to practice