7m dry sump
- Thread starter sunnysupra
- Start date
I haven't seen one. You may want to ask "Van". If I remember right, he was building a dedicated track mk3 and had an awesome build going. I'm sure he at least considered a dry sump.
I finished my 7M dry sump this year, but car is down under construction 
last 2 years, hope to run it by July-August.
I choose Peterson components - 3 stage pump, water/oil cooler, 3 galon tank. Used inline CM filter with disposable cartridges. You can buy washable 40mic filter from Peterson, but it is to coarse in my opinion. I bought it, but decided to use it in my th350 cooling circuit.
Regarding pan - you can find pictures of modified pan in Defiant 101mm stroker thread, there are many good ideas there.
I made it simple - cut off all pan internals and soldered mesh wire. I also use crank scraper. I bought 2 scavenging filters, but didn't find room for them. My freaking manifold has too long runners. Deeper pan is always better for power, even with dry sump.
If you want shallow pan to lower engine you have to be more creative.
I installed tank in front of passenger side rear shock tower, tank vented from the bottom into the frame rail. -16AN lines to and from the tank. Don't have pictures of the tank, I am away from home and will be there in June or July.
If you buy components from Peterson - use Crank drive hub, BBC, ATI, MSD (part # 06-4112) . It will fit over 7M ATI dumper.
Edited 09 May 2013: I learned that my ATI damper is 6.78" size, standard 7M damper is 5.5". So, driving mandrel BBC, ATI, MSD (part # 06-4112) will not fit standard 7M damper. Thanks to Josbeat who brought it to my attention
last 2 years, hope to run it by July-August.I choose Peterson components - 3 stage pump, water/oil cooler, 3 galon tank. Used inline CM filter with disposable cartridges. You can buy washable 40mic filter from Peterson, but it is to coarse in my opinion. I bought it, but decided to use it in my th350 cooling circuit.
Regarding pan - you can find pictures of modified pan in Defiant 101mm stroker thread, there are many good ideas there.
I made it simple - cut off all pan internals and soldered mesh wire. I also use crank scraper. I bought 2 scavenging filters, but didn't find room for them. My freaking manifold has too long runners. Deeper pan is always better for power, even with dry sump.
If you want shallow pan to lower engine you have to be more creative.
I installed tank in front of passenger side rear shock tower, tank vented from the bottom into the frame rail. -16AN lines to and from the tank. Don't have pictures of the tank, I am away from home and will be there in June or July.
If you buy components from Peterson - use Crank drive hub, BBC, ATI, MSD (part # 06-4112) . It will fit over 7M ATI dumper.
Edited 09 May 2013: I learned that my ATI damper is 6.78" size, standard 7M damper is 5.5". So, driving mandrel BBC, ATI, MSD (part # 06-4112) will not fit standard 7M damper. Thanks to Josbeat who brought it to my attention
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hey! good to see another supra owner making a dry sump engine.
thanks to give the reference of the drive mandrel because I asked to Peterson and he saed no one if good for my ATI pulley so thanks again thats was the last part I need to get to complette the kit.
will be a good idea to interchange the ideas eh?
thanks to give the reference of the drive mandrel because I asked to Peterson and he saed no one if good for my ATI pulley so thanks again thats was the last part I need to get to complette the kit.
will be a good idea to interchange the ideas eh?
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Wees is doing the oil pan for me it will be a shallow pan because if is posible to lower the engine I will do it. and scraper aswell
I bought for a 4 stage pump with a 40 thoot pulley and my plan is to try with 20 thoot at the driver (1/2 speed)
like I have not any refernces I bought a 6 ltr bottle with oil-air separator and also I am thinking to fit it at the back of the rear right tower or in the midle of the rar seat (my car is a racing supra)
but all lines will be AN-12 at the moment.
I will run the dry sytem in a vacuum mode with Peterson PCV valve and regulator sealling all the holes....
and same like you I will fit the pump where the steering pump was ( I am using a electric pump) I can tell you like we have same ideas on how to do it because the desing of the pump suport is the same like I was thinking to do jajaja
What belt size are you using?
regards
I bought for a 4 stage pump with a 40 thoot pulley and my plan is to try with 20 thoot at the driver (1/2 speed)
like I have not any refernces I bought a 6 ltr bottle with oil-air separator and also I am thinking to fit it at the back of the rear right tower or in the midle of the rar seat (my car is a racing supra)
but all lines will be AN-12 at the moment.
I will run the dry sytem in a vacuum mode with Peterson PCV valve and regulator sealling all the holes....
and same like you I will fit the pump where the steering pump was ( I am using a electric pump) I can tell you like we have same ideas on how to do it because the desing of the pump suport is the same like I was thinking to do jajaja
What belt size are you using?
regards
josbeat;1900884 said:
Belt is Peterson HTD #05-1909, but for your setup most likely you will need something different. When pump fixed on the bracket in position measure center to centre distance between sprokets and ask Peterson what size they recommend. They will ask you also size of your drive and driven sprokets.
I want to add that I made very badd error and installed too fine mesh screen in my sump. It is on the picture in post above.
I was loosing oil pressure in the end of 2nd gear closer to redline. 2 scavenging sections had hard time trying to pull oil from the sump through this very fine screen. Oil stayed in the sump making big 3 galon tank empty.
I think you have to mutch escavenger meshs and filters, with two escavengers sections you will need to optimize the return line to the tank with the less restrictions but it was Im thinking
I will go with 4 stages pump
thanks for the reply , I have a 40 thoot pump and 20 thoot at the crank but I have not ready the bracket so i can move it close or far to suit any belt . The problem is , when I have the system ready I will need to wait almost 5-7 days to get the belt ....and the time is gold! thats way I am triing to get it before
I will go with 4 stages pump
thanks for the reply , I have a 40 thoot pump and 20 thoot at the crank but I have not ready the bracket so i can move it close or far to suit any belt . The problem is , when I have the system ready I will need to wait almost 5-7 days to get the belt ....and the time is gold! thats way I am triing to get it before