60-1 trim 7psi 20-60

[7M4EVR]

I wanted to post this video to get other opinions since I'm new to the 60-1. I feel like the car just doesnt pull like it should. Yeah I know it's only at 7psi because I'm still breaking my rebuilt motor in, and I'm also still taking it easy on it and shifting early. But it just doesnt feel like I had hoped for. I still have some kinks to work out which definitely could affect the performance (just need a warm day). I need to test my wastegate, double check my ign timing again, and do another boost leak test, but doesn't this look slower than it should from 20-60? I watch other videos of the 60-1 and the needle moves way quicker. I still got my little brother to say woot at the end though lol.


[video=youtube_share;W4-yLljbJis]http://youtu.be/W4-yLljbJis[/video]

 

[mkt]

That looks pretty good for 7psi man. Remember ur still in break in so u don't want to push it hard anyways.

 

[atmperformance]

That looks pretty good for 7psi man. Remember ur still in break in so u don't want to push it hard anyways.

Some people would argue if you don't push it hard you're not going to seat the rings.

 

[mkt]

U guys can turn up the boost all u want first start up if u want I'll wait a couple hundred miles till then. I have heard this also

 

[supranewbie]

Some people would argue if you don't push it hard you're not going to seat the rings.

This is true. I've heard it plenty. I remain standing firmly with those who would argue back tho.

 

[supranewbie]

This is true. I've heard it plenty. I remain standing firmly with those who would argue back tho.

Babying it can be just as bad or worse tho. They are correct in the need to force your rings out hard against the crosshatch. But generate too much heat and you get glazing. Same effect from babying it or using synthetic during break in.

7M; I think what you are seeing is normal. It will feel a lot better when you turn it up. And when you capitalize on the power band.

 

[7M4EVR]

FWIW I broke the car in pretty much consistent to Jdubs recomendation on this sticky: http://www.supramania.com/forums/sh...ak-in-Oil-and-When-to-Switch-to-Synthetic-Oil

A little boost is fine, I'm at the 300 mile mark after break in, and I'm not out goin WOT on the thing constantly. But c'mon I spent over a year building it, you think I wasnt gonna give it a couple good pulls before I had to put it away for winter another 3 months..no way! I'd almost rather melt a piston and rebuild it over winter again lol

I hope to have all the little things I need to check done soon so I can rule them out. I am kind of hoping I find a boost leak, or my timing got thrown off some because it feels slow to me, but sounds great. It's almost like the turbo spools up really loud but the car doesnt go anywhere sometimes. Then there are other times when it hits boost and takes off like a rocket.

 

[black89t]

when breaking in a motor the main thing is you don't want to spin it to high for like the first 500 for the bearing to breakin and cause all the shit in the oil from the rings imo. getting into boost is good so is hard engine breaking to seat the rings well. and can't really tell if thats good for 7psi since we cant see your tach. if you were bogging it really hard shifting at like 3k then yeah that looked fine...

 

[atmperformance]

where i feel that's true with older larger clearance motors *cough* 350 chevy *cough* or when you're doing a budget rebuil. If you had everything machined correctly there should be no need for bearing break-in. letting your car warm up first the first time should short all that out then it should just be a matter of seating rings. I've worked on motors that go in a car brand new, get driven around the block till they are warm then straight on the dyno. Once on the dyno it's worked progressively to higher RPMs and throttle. usually any smoke is gone by the first or second full pull which i would say is happening under 25miles.

 

[supranewbie]

where i feel that's true with older larger clearance motors *cough* 350 chevy *cough* or when you're doing a budget rebuil. If you had everything machined correctly there should be no need for bearing break-in. letting your car warm up first the first time should short all that out then it should just be a matter of seating rings. I've worked on motors that go in a car brand new, get driven around the block till they are warm then straight on the dyno. Once on the dyno it's worked progressively to higher RPMs and throttle. usually any smoke is gone by the first or second full pull which i would say is happening under 25miles.

Exactly. Rings should be the only thing requiring break-in. Hopefully that's the only metal on metal. A dyno is the safest, easiest, best bet for break-in.

 

[Mikael_7m]

FWIW I broke the car in pretty much consistent to Jdubs recomendation on this sticky: http://www.supramania.com/forums/sh...ak-in-Oil-and-When-to-Switch-to-Synthetic-Oil

A little boost is fine, I'm at the 300 mile mark after break in, and I'm not out goin WOT on the thing constantly. But c'mon I spent over a year building it, you think I wasnt gonna give it a couple good pulls before I had to put it away for winter another 3 months..no way! I'd almost rather melt a piston and rebuild it over winter again lol

I hope to have all the little things I need to check done soon so I can rule them out. I am kind of hoping I find a boost leak, or my timing got thrown off some because it feels slow to me, but sounds great. It's almost like the turbo spools up really loud but the car doesnt go anywhere sometimes. Then there are other times when it hits boost and takes off like a rocket.

I'd say thats what you would expect from 7psi. When I installed my 57 trim and ran 10-11psi it felt slower than the stock ct26. But now i'm running 16psi and it feels very good.

 

[wardog]

I can tell you from experience that Jdubs recommendations are right on the money. I have broken in 4 engines following his method and all have past the beating i have given them with a 60 trim and 3 ct26 60-1. I can tell you that 7 psi feels like stock on a 60-1 BUT its a different BEAST when you go past 11 psi. I have dynoed the 60-1 at 11.5 and 15 psi with full boltons stock engine with MHG and arps and supporting mods and stock injectors. At 11.5 psi 355 rwhp and 377 rwtq and at 15 psi it did 377 rwhp and over 400 rwtq. Good luck and dont baby it too much. Good Luck.

 

[7M4EVR]

Thanks for the input man and I agree. I fixed a few things and it made a huge difference. Im going to get a new video up once I get the chance. I really cant wait to get the tune and see it past 15psi. There will be a video of that coming in a couple months too.

 

[f00g00]

There is also a way to properly break in cams. The shop in Arizona that rebuilt my K5 Blazer didn't break in my new "competition cam's" mild cam and it cost me 4 flat lobes and another rebuild by a proper shop.
Not sure if Crower's need to be broken in though.