Sorry gonna simplify ... Stock afm screw all the way out+afpr(rr)+ wideband+raise static fuel pressure=safe+higher fuel cut
440s+afpr+ Lexus afm
- Thread starter Mk34ullboost
- Start date
Right now I'm not going for a 60hp upgrade I just wanna be sure my thoughts I'm having are correct reading how the Lexus afm lies to the computer(same as adjusting stock afm just more lies) then the 550s lie about fuel input (same as raising fuel pressure a little just more lies. I'm thankful for all the helP but this time can someone tell if my logic is wrong instead of what they did to their car or thInk I should do. I'm gonna try and keep this car for as long as I can so I'm not gonna knowingly fuck it up I just read and think about things I could do that would be a upgrade if only 5hp I want it as long as it is safe for my engine.
The Lex meter doesn't tell any lie. It tells the absolute truth about air volume and velocity. The TCCS just doesn't know the calibration.
To answer your original question, i have been running 440 s with the lexus afm for the past 4 years. The only exception as far as more fuel, i installed a holley 255 fuel pump. Have a narrow band and a garrett gt 35 turbo and a resistor hooked up to mafs
It's been said before, it'll be said again.
Just because your motor hasn't grenaded doesn't mean that it's safe.
Just because your motor hasn't grenaded doesn't mean that it's safe.
Tony;1866390 said:
22PSI from a GT35R with 440's and a lex afm with a narrow band/holley255 FP. Can you take pictures of your internals when she lets loose?
Not leaning out at all. I also did another mod that has had a lot of debate... did away with the egr valve and made a block plate and she runs great. As a matter of fact just smoked the new gto 6.0 the other day. Some people talk about all the risks, while others test the facts and make it to the moon
Tony;1866390 said:
a304e is a awesome trans
Tony;1866570 said:
im just trying to figure out how you raised fuel cut to 22 psi with no afpr or piggyback
and your only using a narrowband to monitor afr's
Tony Im curious how it was decided what resistor to put inline the lex afm doesn't make much sense to just throw one in there and what'll that do?
Tony;1866311 said:
And Steve Irwin swam with crocodiles and sharks all the time. Was there a point to your post?
The car doesn't have a mass airflow sensor. And a resistor will not change the Hz, which is what the PCM monitors, not the amplitude, or even an non existant analog signal. A resistor might set a code for low voltage. It just depends on how much resistance is in your resistor. And if it was an analog signal, it would read even lower of a signal. Your post if full of fail. Just facts though, right?
The resistor is hooked up to the mass air flow which is also together with the air intake temp sensor. It sends a false reading of the air temp to the ecu which thinks its much colder outside which in return sends more fuel to the injectors. Since the lexus afm housing is 25% larger or so it only reads through the sensor and allows more air to pass though undetected. The resistor also helps here sending a false report of metered air to the ecu which allows a higher boost until fuel cut. I can get 24psi out but usually hit fuel cut around that time. Have cut back to around 18 right now
ive personally drove a civic with a legit mugen engine in it.. it has wiseco pistons & eagle rods, aem cam pulleys, rc injectors (size unknown) tial blow off valve, tial wasteage, gt35 turbo, EDELBROCK intake manifold, 5" exhaust.... Slowest turbocharged vehicle i have ever driven, the lag is crazy, when boost hits its way over 25 psi (aftermarket gauge gets buried past 25 psi) & it spools around 5k rpm, 6.5K is the rev limit, shift & here comes the outrageous lag again & guess what? a 16 year old owns it.. He has no idea what to do. some guy traded it for some car the kid had & some cash.. MY POINT IS He has no wideband, no boost controller, NOTHING. His car still runs, hasn't blown up, he can go here & there slowly but surely. Idk WTF is going on but thats crazy. i was sure he'd burn holes through the pistons by now...
Tony;1866885 said:
wouldnt colder intake temps require less fuel since oxygen is more dense? or am i thinking backwards?
You are right about cold air is more dense than warm air but because the air is more dense when its cold, you get more bang for your buck. What i mean is, a cylinder of cold air will have more air in it than a cylinder of the exact same size of hot air. The ecu knows this and when detects colder air, it knows it has to dump more fuel to compensate for it.