3D Printed Supra Parts

[Billybob9187]

I dunno why but this voltage meter excites me. I just wish it was the oem green color. Let me know what the mod will cost.

**edit**

PS I just noticed the subtle 420 drop in the photo on the clock. Nice advertising touch.

 

[suprarx7nut]

Making an interior panel from scratch sounds hard. How would you do it?

Best way to do it would be to make a mold out of something rigid. Fiberglass castings would probably work, but ideally you'd have something harder. It'd be really good to have a profile CNC'd in wood which you could then use as a mold for fiberglass or carbon fiber. If you're going through all that trouble, and the target audience is the mk4 crowd... I think carbon fiber is a no-brainer.

Anyways, the switch panel is officially "launched" now and is available for purchase. I only a couple on hand and I'm selling them without switches to start. If there's enough interest I'll buy some switches and bundle them in with the panel to make it a "one-stop-shop".

http://yotamd.com/products/stealth_switch/index.html

I'll get to work on the Profec B Ash Tray holder tonight! Maybe I can get a prototype printed over the next week or so. I needed to tune mine recently and it's aggravating having it just float below the single DIN stereo, barely visible. An ash tray mount would be sweet!

 

[suprarx7nut]

I dunno why but this voltage meter excites me. I just wish it was the oem green color. Let me know what the mod will cost.

**edit**

PS I just noticed the subtle 420 drop in the photo on the clock. Nice advertising touch.

Haha, the 4:20 was a happy accident. Although I'm from Colorado so... perhaps that's just my best time of day.

The green color is a no-cost change for me. I just need to order some up. This red one has worked very well so far so I'll order up a bunch more in Red, Green, Blue and White.

I'm going to go for a drive tonight and see how it does at night. Daytime brightness is great, but getting it bright enough in day time and dim enough at night can be tough.

STAY TUNED!

 

[supranaut]

Cargo clips are nice!

 

[BoostPsiKPA]

Buy switches!

 

[suprarx7nut]

Buy switches!

Sigh... I suppose I should.

Cargo clips are nice!

Thanks!

I tried out the voltmeter last night and it's perfect. The brightness is just right.

 

[f00g00]

I could really go for a much beefier undercover that also has reinforced holes. I'm sure others would also be interested in one.

 

[suprarx7nut]

I could really go for a much beefier undercover that also has reinforced holes. I'm sure others would also be interested in one.

I'd love that as well, but I think that's a big challenge from a manufacturing perspective with super low volumes. I'd probably pursue a carbon fiber version with a very light aluminum frame reinforcement and probably actual grommets to mount it so it doesn't just tear through the holes.

Good idea, I'll get it on my list!

 

[Billybob9187]

I would love if you were able to make a glove box gauge pod like the one for Subaru. It has cut away slots for boost controllers and other like devices.

ex.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/atm-20032

 

[Zrain25]

I agree with billybob

 

[suprarx7nut]

I would love if you were able to make a glove box gauge pod like the one for Subaru. It has cut away slots for boost controllers and other like devices.

ex.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/atm-20032

I agree with billybob

Good ideas. My pricing on that kind of piece, however, would probably be double that Subaru example. Those sort of larger molded plastic pieces are cake when you're making a few thousand of them, but quite expensive in small batches. Maybe I could do some carbon work and make it economical/sexy.

One thing I don't like about those though, is that you then have to drive with the glove box open and look down and way over to your right to view anything, or you keep it closed and never really see the gauges or interact with the units.

I'm thinking my Ash Tray Boost Controller approach will have to be very modular. I should be able to create a system where you could swap out just the "faceplate" and accommodate a variety of parts. IE Different controllers, displays, maybe 52mm gauges...

Also, I've used the voltmeter for a bit now and it's awesome. I love it. Perfect mounting location, IMO. It's out of the way most the time, blocked by the steering wheel, but when you want to check it, it's just a slight nod of the head to view it. It's also interesting to see how the voltage changes at different RPMs and with accessories on or off. Another prototype of the voltmeter is one it's way, hopefully with better fitment around the factory trim. My first one works, but I can do better. Look for pricing around $60.

 

[Billybob9187]

I agree that it's not practical but here in California it's illegal to operate a vehicle on the roads with a wideband gauge let alone boost controller or anything else. Most of the time they don't care but it just takes that 1 cop that has something to prove and bammm your sol. The glove box method conceals them well with a lockable option.


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[suprarx7nut]

I agree that it's not practical but here in California it's illegal to operate a vehicle on the roads with a wideband gauge let alone boost controller or anything else. Most of the time they don't care but it just takes that 1 cop that has something to prove and bammm your sol. The glove box method conceals them well with a lockable option.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Oh wow. I had never considered that. Damn California.

Ok, I'll keep it on my list!

Sent from my XT1060 using Tapatalk

 

[suprarx7nut]

Updates!

Stealth Volt Meter is launched. See here for an install video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h6zLd5ZkwAA

And see here to purchase: http://yotamd.com/products/stealth_volt/index.html

I also have switches for the Stealth Switch which will be included in future sales - with a modest price increase. I have two single pole single throw switches (one black, one red) and one double pole, double throw switch (black).

Cargo Clips should be added to the site soon. They are 100% done and ready for sale, just need to update the site.

I'm having a hard time dedicating time to new parts at this time. The Greddy Profec ash tray holder is on hold. It will not be as easy as I hoped. I'm still planning on expanding my catalog soon, but progress may be a little slow for a while.

 

[Dan_Gyoba]

Very cool projects. I have my own 3d printer, and have made a few bits and pieces. My build materials are limited, no titanium for me, but I've been able to make a few bits useful to me. I want to make an ashtray replacement part to hold some of the electronics displays in the car. I've also considered a DIN plate that can fit under a single DIN radio.

Personally not interested in selling pieces, but may well be interested in some high quality pieces in better materials and tolerances than my printer will do.

 

[suprarx7nut]

Very cool projects. I have my own 3d printer, and have made a few bits and pieces. My build materials are limited, no titanium for me, but I've been able to make a few bits useful to me. I want to make an ashtray replacement part to hold some of the electronics displays in the car. I've also considered a DIN plate that can fit under a single DIN radio.

Personally not interested in selling pieces, but may well be interested in some high quality pieces in better materials and tolerances than my printer will do.

Cool! What printer do you have? Any idea on its limitations? I've been poking around at the various DIY options, but it still looks like the entry price for a system to make reliable, small features (<1mm) is a few $k.

If nothing else though, it would be really neat to prototype quickly at home with your own printer.

 

[Enraged]

It's not really that expensive for small machines. Something like a Printrbot will get you going, and the parts you can make on those machines are pretty detailed. http://printrbot.com/

If you buy complete kits, it can be expensive, but if you do a lot of the legwork yourself on sourcing parts, you can save a bunch of money. Read up on Reprap, specifically the Prusa if you want to get into 3d printed fairly cheaply. Or maybe a delta printer like this: https://www.3dprintersonlinestore.com/flsun-3d-kossel-delta-diy-kit . With the flood of parts from China, costs have come down a lot. Of course, quality will vary.

But you can't really compare the desktop machines to something like Shapeways. They use high quality commercial machines with different processes than desktop machines. I like the idea of using a desktop machine to prototype parts, then once you know your design is good, get it printed on a commercial machine, or get the parts machined on a CNC mill.

 

[suprarx7nut]

Wow. Holy crap. I had no idea you could get a functional printer for $220. That's... incredible. I thought the Dremel printer for a little under a grand was cheap. Jeez. I wouldn't expect the quality to be worthwhile, but for that little it'd be great for simple prototyping. Although, for me a lot of the prototyping is me figuring out if I like .005" clearance between two parts or if I maybe like .008". For instance, in one part I make and sell I'm capturing a thin profile M2 nut. The walls need to be very consistent or it just doesn't work. I'd love to see how those handle some of my more detailed features like that. The SVM in my post above has some very thin walls as well, down to .030" so the .4mm nozzle size on that cheapy would be a problem.

Very neat though. That's almost like a harbor freight tool purchase at that point, haha.

I've been looking at the Markforged stuff for a while, but the entry level machine is still over $5k. I can get a desktop CNC for that kind of money... That being said, the markforged can do carbon fiber reinforced parts with strength near that of aluminum.

Thanks for the links, Enraged. That's really cool.

 

[woggin]

Wow, some good work there mate, gna sub to your youtube page, ive got a clone of a clone, CTC dual extruder thats been heavily modified over the years, have also printed out a few bits for previous cars and my current Aristo (jzs147 gs300), not anything fancy, but functional http://www.thingiverse.com/woggin/designs

the centre caps on my starlet gt by far my fave! (the airbox lower worked awesome)

I am currently working on replicating the 2.5 badges on the front of the supra becoz mine didnt have any.

ive only played with ABS, PLA and TPU/TPE, would love to use some nylon, but havent done much printing lately, more designing than printing! (ive got a few badges to go up to thingiverse too soon)

looking forward to your future products! wish i had the time/money for an expensive resin or laser printer, although, at 100 micron layer height the quality is pretty dam good if i keep it under 40mm/sec

 

[Enraged]

Those cheap machines are firmly in the hobby department (FDM - fused deposition modeling, printing primarily ABS and PLA) at the moment. With some tuning, they can get into pretty small features, but not as small as you mention. Markforged is definitely a commercial-type machine. Shapeways uses different types of machines, they can print more engineering materials, with high detail.

There are huge communities of people online working to make hobby-priced machines with the capability of the current commercial machines. Even 10 years ago, that $220 printer would cost $10k+. We had one in my engineering classes 10 years ago that cost $25k and can't do what my $500 machine can do now. The recent advances in cheap computing have really sped up development of these machines. There have been Kickstarters for machines that cure UV resin with laser or projected light. Those machines 10 years ago were $100k+, now you can get one for $2k.