You're right it doesn't eliminate fuel cut. Just raises it. Since ive done the 550/lex mod ive never hit fuel cut again. Even at 16psi.
300hp at the wheels on a budget.
- Thread starter 87witmoreboost
- Start date
Start with an SAFCII and boost controller along with a 2.5" or 3" exhaust. A good tuner can raise your fuel cut with the SAFC. If your stock engine and turbo are in good shape, you can get close to 300 rwhp. Several people have done it with no problem. This link will give you the best bang for the buck I've ever seen.
http://7mpower.com/john_lunsford.shtml
http://7mpower.com/john_lunsford.shtml
What is the best/most cost effective ways to go about 550's? Are there any companies to stay away from?
297
298
299 kaBOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOM
(sorry can't associate "budget" "300rwhp" and "7M" in the one thread)
298
299 kaBOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOM
(sorry can't associate "budget" "300rwhp" and "7M" in the one thread)
Did my IQ just drop?Yakuzastinger said:
And, I'm not trying to sound like an asshole here, but why does everyone want to do things "the cheap way"? At some point it needs to be understood that you need to spend money on shit. Maybe I just missed the change from QUALITY to QUANTITY.
I'd take a stock car that starts every day over a '300 hp budget car' that grenades itself once a week.
Best is to get them new. Most cost effective is to buy them used. They usually go for around $300, I think. Just make sure the seller has a flow chart to show you first.87witmoreboost said:
Stay away from Venom injectors!
EdgeSupra said:
I learned the hard way...
I finally had enough and went through and redid some stuff with all new parts from scratch myself...
If there is a weakest link, it WILL fail, and usually at the worst possible time...
Lots of rubbish here.
307 WHP 406 TQ.
on the stock turbo... now knowing what i know now i'd do the following
FCD
Walbro
12 volt mod
14 PSI
FPR 45PSI static pressure
3" turbo back (including elbow)
hardpipes (save your self lots of headache)
EBC
For more power set to 16-18 PSI however, you will need washers with the EBC to hold the boost to redline.
Expect 320-340 WHP if you hold 16-18 to redline.
If you stay around 15-16 PSI bump the timing to 15 base timing and you'll notice a nice increase in torque, anymore boost on pump/timing and you risk detonation. I'd leave it at 10 if i was aiming for 18 PSI.
My secret to my 307/406 run was i was running 15 base timing and 94 octane fuel.. Gotta say man the car was the most fun i ever had... I've been though 2 singles and 1 bigger twin setup and still stock trubo when it hit 406 tq at 3100 RPM was soooo damn fun, if it could only hold the power to redline, then it would have been amazing.
307 WHP 406 TQ.
on the stock turbo... now knowing what i know now i'd do the following
FCD
Walbro
12 volt mod
14 PSI
FPR 45PSI static pressure
3" turbo back (including elbow)
hardpipes (save your self lots of headache)
EBC
For more power set to 16-18 PSI however, you will need washers with the EBC to hold the boost to redline.
Expect 320-340 WHP if you hold 16-18 to redline.
If you stay around 15-16 PSI bump the timing to 15 base timing and you'll notice a nice increase in torque, anymore boost on pump/timing and you risk detonation. I'd leave it at 10 if i was aiming for 18 PSI.
My secret to my 307/406 run was i was running 15 base timing and 94 octane fuel.. Gotta say man the car was the most fun i ever had... I've been though 2 singles and 1 bigger twin setup and still stock trubo when it hit 406 tq at 3100 RPM was soooo damn fun, if it could only hold the power to redline, then it would have been amazing.
One good thing about doing it "cheap" and breaking shit is you learn a lot. Knowledge is just as important as speed for me.
I went the cheap route when I was in high school on my supra. I had tons of fun and learned TONS about my supra and cars in general. Not to mention I really pissed off all the domestic guys around my school when I would mop the floor with them
I went the cheap route when I was in high school on my supra. I had tons of fun and learned TONS about my supra and cars in general. Not to mention I really pissed off all the domestic guys around my school when I would mop the floor with them
its great to have a goal but why not just slowly add bits towards your goal, such as one month buy a intercooler and hardpipes, next month ebc,next month exhaust and downpipe, e.t.c rushing out spending money all at once and compromising on the quality will only make you kick your own ass down the track for buying it.Do the basics first like new plugs if needed and new filters the 7m goes okay if tuned correctly.
It's looking like that will happen at this point. From what I've got from this forum in general, it seems that if things aren't done right, it'll cost more than what it would've cost to do things right from the start. My car was officially put away for the winter today and I think I will begin doing one large buy/month and have a nice shelf of parts waiting for the spring. I'll start with the 'should-have' parts such as a turbo timer, air/fuel meter, boost gauge, pillar pod for the two of them, one piece downpipe (w/elbow), etc. Once the car is ready and has proved reliable as is, then I can consider more boost, more fuel, etc. Lucky for me, I have a daily driver and can take my time doing things right with the car.