#3 valve cover, essential?

[rawmk3]

It would be HIGHLY unlikely a cracked plug insulator would allow oil in the cylinder.
#1 - It would have to extend past the metal base
#2 - the oil would have to be above the insulator
#3 - a crack like that would be very visible

Even with a missing plug washer, the threads on the plug would inhibit oil flowing down since it's not under pressure.

Might want to change the plugs, even though they are not that old. Or swap the #6 plug to another cylinder to see if it reoccurs.

A crack like that would be visable, if its not covered under OIL

 

[jdub]

Ok first off him stating the plug isnt firing at all means NO SPARK. Resistance in the wire or not, NO SPARK IS NO SPARK. You need to pay attention more.

No...you should pay attention. Here's his posts...no where does it say "no spark". It says misfire...as usual you have a reading comprehension problem. He's talking about another car (one he rebuilt) that can't get spark.

Is valve cover #3 essential and is there a way to keep oil out of the the spark plugs. I bought another 89 and changed the plugs' The next day it seemed like they were fouling. this 89 has the #3 valve cover which my other 89 does not. The latter is the one I rebuilt and cannot get spark. Can the oil get in to the comb. chamber past the plugs from the valve covers? Can anyone tell me the correct plug and gap for 7m-gte? The book says 31 but the ones I pulled out were gapped at 40 and it seemed to run ok. It had a slight miss at idle but now it misses terrible with the plugs app-5503 autolite. Those are the ones the store gave me. I gapped them at 35. I could really use a hand with this one. Thanks.

I pulled the plugs and regapped them at 31 thou. The #6 plugs insulator was discolored and the ground strap showed no sign of heat. Also it appeared to have oil on it. It fired up with a little effort and idled smooth for a few seconds and then started to miss. I ran a compression test a few days ago and all 6 were above 150. How else would oil get into the comb. chamber if its not the rings? I also installed new plug wires so I dont think they are shorting out in the plug galley or whatever its called. Thanks for the info about sealing the 14mm allen bolts. Do the lower ones on the head leak as well ir just the valve cover allens. I guess it couldnt hurt to seal them all huh?

Thanks for all the input guys, I ran it around the block and noticed, when it was still cold, some steam out the exaust. that went away as it warmed up. when I got back and checked the oil it was looking a littlt cloudy. blown head gasket I figure. No other way to get water in the oil is there, besides a cracked block. is that right? I guess iI will wait till morning to hear from you guys. Let me know if Ishould rip it apart. thanks

Next, if the ceramic insolation is cracked, and there is that much oil there, the vaccume on the intake stroke will SUCK OIL INTO THE ELECTRODE. Thus fouling out his plug. So my statement is possible especially with 3/4 of an inch to 1 inch of oil in the valley like it showed on his plug socket.

I'll say it once more...the odds of this are slim to none, especially since he pulled the plugs and re-gapped them. Yet, you cling to the "crack theory"...how about the coils and plug wires (like I said long ago) causing a misfire...could even be a bad plug. Instead you come in and sidetrack the guy with this line of BS.

The factory manual is based on factory procedures, and yet there are short cuts for everything. Perfect example, do you follow the factory recomendations for pulling your motor? Are you running all factory spec equipment? I'm willing to bet not. So evidently the factory ideals arent always accurate, and factory diagnostics does not normally apply to an average "home mechanic".

Put a mulitmeter on your wires, ok. That tells you if the wire has a crack and is arching (thus causing resistance) Try visually looking at the thing, that will tell you in most cases too. come after me all you want but the fact of the matter is, I can normally diagnose a problem without a multimeter, and its accurate when im dealing with my car.

You got to be shitting me..."factory diagnostics does not normally apply". Maybe that's why everything you have to say comes across as BS. Have you ever considered that you really, really need the ability to follow a diagnostic tree with a multimeter on an EFI car...that perhaps the majority of the questions on SM stem from a guy not being able to properly diagnose a problem. Maybe, just maybe for a guy to learn how to do this requires knowledge of the basics and the TSRM spells it out. Yes, I use it...saves me huge amounts of time and "part swapping".

And tell me, what does pulling a motor have to do with any of this? As usual, your analogies are out near the orbit of Pluto.

A simple test is to put that wire on another cylinder, and test that. If it works, its not your wire. Same with the coil, if you put the coil on another set of wires and swap it around and it works where previously it did not, then its not the coil. And if you swap it with a known good coil (ie his 3-4 coil) and the problem persists in the #6 then you know its between the coil and the combustion chamber somewhere. Normally a wire, or plug.

The wire is likely if the miss is intermittant because the wires move, and if the problem isnt consistant its probably arching off something. If the miss is consistant and the plug keeps fouling out as he stated, I would check to find out why the hell there is oil getting on the plug. Be it bad valve seals, or oil getting down the threads. Sometimes the least likely is the actual cause, so dont try and talk down to me and say its impossible that im right. Im not telling the guy to tear his shit down, its all simple things to check.

I did tell him to swap the plug to another cylinder. Maybe you should pay closer attention. I can say with just about 99% accuracy, oil on the plugs is not from oil in the plug wells. I don't have to talk down to you...you do a fine job making yourself look stupid all by yourself.

But thanks again for trying to make it like i know nothing about cars. I mean I guess im ignorant about the general physics of a friggin motor. I guess the 7m motor is a magic motor that does not apply to the same basic concepts every other engine in the world does. News flash, all motors are generally the same. There are things that are different yes, but the same physics apply to every engine. A DOHC motor with a ton of OIL in the plug valley is not a good think. EVER. It causes a ton of problems. But you already knew that.

You won't hear me argue that point.

And I never said oil in the plug wells is not a problem. I do know this, you come waltzing into these threads spouting off what amounts to a long line of BS. You hijack the thread with your rants and turn it into a pissing contest. It is very obvious you have little real knowledge about these cars...it shows just about every time you post. Since you choose to do this in the Tech Section, you get slapped and it's also obvious you do not like being corrected...I and the other Mods have had to do it way too many times. You have a choice...either learn the specifics on this motor or stop posting, period. It will no longer be tolerated...I AM NOT KIDDING.

Enough of this BS...if it continues, this thread will be closed. Raw, you are walking on thin ice...I've got ZERO tolerance for your crap.

 

[shaeff]

This thread makes me very happy.

 

[IJ.]

Raw: So you really think an engine can suck Oil through a cracked plug?

What happens during the Compression and Power strokes? :nono:

Seriously dude you don't need to reply with 500 barely coherent words/sentences you're just embarrassing yourself.

 

[jdub]

Raw: So you really think an engine can suck Oil through a cracked plug?

What happens during the Compression and Power strokes? :nono:

Seriously dude you don't need to reply with 500 barely coherent words/sentences you're just embarrassing yourself.

Exactly! Can't wait to hear the incoherent logic behind this one

 

[jetjock]

Lmao. I warned him but nooo, he has to learn the hard way....

 

[CHRIS EICHMAN]

Well I guess cloudy oil means blown head gasket. I must of missed somthing because I pulled the head and it doesnt look like it was leaking there but the turbo shaft has all kinds of play so i think the seals are probobly bad hence water in the oil. You guys sure said a lot but it was no help. I give up on this thread. Bye

 

[jetjock]

What you missed is that there are no seals in the turbo that can fail and allow water into the oil...

 

[jdub]

Well I guess cloudy oil means blown head gasket. I must of missed somthing because I pulled the head and it doesnt look like it was leaking there but the turbo shaft has all kinds of play so i think the seals are probobly bad hence water in the oil. You guys sure said a lot but it was no help. I give up on this thread. Bye

Now that it's getting cold, a bit of "steam" on start is normal. Same for some condensation in the motor, especially if you do a lot of short trips. Water is a by-product of combustion and when the engine does not get good and hot, it doesn't get vaporized so the PCV system can get rid of it.

A crappy PCV system will make it worse.

I'm not too sure why you pulled the head :icon_conf
And there is no way water can get into the oil from the turbo, unless the center section is cracked (not likely).

 

[IJ.]

Well I guess cloudy oil means blown head gasket. I must of missed somthing because I pulled the head and it doesnt look like it was leaking there but the turbo shaft has all kinds of play so i think the seals are probobly bad hence water in the oil. You guys sure said a lot but it was no help. I give up on this thread. Bye

I take this as a firm "fuck you" slap in the face and will NEVER try and help you from this day on.