2JZGTE MKIII Swap Info
- Thread starter eman2289
- Start date
Eman Awesome write up Thanks. Now for anyone who can answer I have a few question. I am really ready to start collecting parts for this swap, I just don't think I would be satisfied in the long run with anything else.
1 Will an Aristo 2jzgte work with your list?
2 What would be missing that I would need to make mine CA smog legal. I know what is take legal wise but what parts will I need to make the JDM legal.
3 I've recently learned the big failure on alot of CA swaps is the ECU serial number doesn't match the VIN, can this be changed somehow?
Any and All input would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks Rick
1 Will an Aristo 2jzgte work with your list?
2 What would be missing that I would need to make mine CA smog legal. I know what is take legal wise but what parts will I need to make the JDM legal.
3 I've recently learned the big failure on alot of CA swaps is the ECU serial number doesn't match the VIN, can this be changed somehow?
Any and All input would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks Rick
suprageezer;1071005 said:
The Aristo 2J is the one that I bought, which is why a new water pump and oil pans are needed.
For CA, I do not know much about the laws there, but I do know they are like Nazis with modifying cars. If you are worried about making everything legal, I would do nothing else but find out the information myself. This is just so you know that all of the information that you have is 100% true.
suprageezer;1071005 said:
Contrary to popular myth, making an engine swap legal in California is really not very complicated. Here's the parameters:
1. The engine your swapping in, must be the model year of the chassis your swapping it into or newer (i.e. no motors older than chassis it's going to be installed in).
2. It has to be a motor that was available for sale in the USDM. (1jz's...NOT LEGAL in California).
3. The motor must retain all smog equipment as it did when it was California smog approved.
4. It has to pass the smog check (held to the same standard as whatever model the swapped motor was originally in).
5. The B.A.R. must inspect and issue a certificate verifying all the conditions above have been met, as well as a visual safety inspection verifying the swap has not comprimised the integrity of the car it was performed on (in other words it's safe to drive).
Geezer, I never heard you mention you were interested in doing the 2jz swap.
I'd recommend you call the BAR and they'll fill you in. They gave me a pamphlet on swapping motors legally in Ca. when I had to go there to get my exhaust tested for loudness, due to a ticket from a highway patrolman (metermaids w/ guns). It easily passed.
Bad thanks for that input. So I would imagine First thing I would need to aquire is a CA dead 2jz to get the smog equipment like the egr, etc.? What about the computer, would the jdm computer that comes with a jdm 2jzgte work with the added CA equipmentor would it be best to look for a CD computer also?
Thanks
Thanks
First off, I know that a previous thread was already created for the pricing/location of JDM 2JZ engines, but I have a legitimate question so please mods don't delete this. (Just asking to be safe, I'm new on here)
Has anyone done business with Fast and Furious Motors for a 2JZGTTE and if so, are they reliable? (They're based out of Quebec, Canada.)
Their list price is $1850 (US) for the engine and a 4 speed auto trans.
Has anyone done business with Fast and Furious Motors for a 2JZGTTE and if so, are they reliable? (They're based out of Quebec, Canada.)
Their list price is $1850 (US) for the engine and a 4 speed auto trans.
Moy;1102710 said:
To be honest with you, since you are in the USA, I would go with a reputible company...like Kaizen or Driftmotion, and I would stick in the USA when looking...getting over the boarder shipping can have problems.
First off, I want to say thank you for putting this thread together 
I figure I might be the first person in Wyoming to have a 2j swap... soon. Oh well, it's not like I'd be driving the car much through the winter anyway haha.
I may have missed it, but do the BIC brackets allow you to keep stock twins without beating the firewall? I'm not overly concerned, as I'll likely go single anyway, I just wanna know what options I have.
Either way, I DO like using my hammer
I figure I might be the first person in Wyoming to have a 2j swap... soon. Oh well, it's not like I'd be driving the car much through the winter anyway haha.
I may have missed it, but do the BIC brackets allow you to keep stock twins without beating the firewall? I'm not overly concerned, as I'll likely go single anyway, I just wanna know what options I have.
Either way, I DO like using my hammer
te72;1126948 said:First off, I want to say thank you for putting this thread together
I figure I might be the first person in Wyoming to have a 2j swap... soon. Oh well, it's not like I'd be driving the car much through the winter anyway haha.
I may have missed it, but do the BIC brackets allow you to keep stock twins without beating the firewall? I'm not overly concerned, as I'll likely go single anyway, I just wanna know what options I have.
Either way, I DO like using my hammer
No, you have to beat the firewall, and I will tell you now,(since I put the engine in 5 times before I had the right space...) a little bit of hammering isn't going to do it, you have to beat the living shit out of this thing.
tlo86;1127231 said::biglaugh:
on cars like the sc300 you dont need to though it fits nice
what did you do about the downpipe in the mkiii deadcell?
I got lucky and jose from kaizen sent me one
And I STILL CAN'T FIND A DAMN SHOP THAT DOES 3" FOR ME!!!! WTF!!!!!!!!
tlo86;1127236 said:
Yea, i thought that too, but apparently the car is to low, and they can't bend 3" 90degrees without it kinking.... ><
D34DC311;1127225 said:
Haha, awesome, I'll finally get an excuse to buy a bigger hammer, or a crowbar. Seemed to work for Freeman... :biglaugh:
In all seriousness though, I figure I'll go with a reasonable sized turbo, maybe the one that twisted my buddy's driveshaft, seeing as how his setup can't really take the power at the moment heh... just need to see if Vinny can make me a good manifold
eman2289;1130198 said:
As much as I love huge turbos and the tsunami of torque that they can create, I'm more the type to go for a balanced powerband. Something that spools early (enough), and spools hard. Something well matched to a stock (for now, mwahaha) head/bottom end. Any suggestions? I'm pretty familiar with the 7m world, this whole 2j business is (mostly) new to me
For reference, an old roommate/friend of mine has a t66 on his 1j, and all the supporting mods, and yet it doesn't even feel alive before 4500. Granted, it pulls like a mofo and feels awesome (and can supposedly support ~600whp), I was hoping for something that will be fully spooled by 3k or so...
te72;1130388 said:As much as I love huge turbos and the tsunami of torque that they can create, I'm more the type to go for a balanced powerband. Something that spools early (enough), and spools hard. Something well matched to a stock (for now, mwahaha) head/bottom end. Any suggestions? I'm pretty familiar with the 7m world, this whole 2j business is (mostly) new to me
For reference, an old roommate/friend of mine has a t66 on his 1j, and all the supporting mods, and yet it doesn't even feel alive before 4500. Granted, it pulls like a mofo and feels awesome (and can supposedly support ~600whp), I was hoping for something that will be fully spooled by 3k or so...
I am wrecking havoc on the twins :biglaugh: and if they go, I just go find another pair for $100 on here, cant beat that.
^Yea, until you gotta pull them off and put new ones on.
I got a t67 with a 68 hot side. I figured that best for all around use. If you are looking for something to be fully spooled by 3000, you are trying to find a pretty small turbo. If I remember correctly, the ct26 doesnt even start spooling on the 7m unitl just before 3000
I got a t67 with a 68 hot side. I figured that best for all around use. If you are looking for something to be fully spooled by 3000, you are trying to find a pretty small turbo. If I remember correctly, the ct26 doesnt even start spooling on the 7m unitl just before 3000
D34DC311;1127225 said:
False, very little has to be done to the firewall to fit the twins. I banged my firewall on freshly painted engine bay (forgot before sending to paint) and only a very minor crack in the paint as a result.
eman2289;1130543 said:
Mostly for the ease of clutter is why I like the singled setups.
And I forget where the stock ct would spool on my 7m, but the 57 trim was generating boost before 2k. Not much, and it wouldn't be hitting hard until around 3200 or so, but I had a 'bit' of headwork done on it
For reference, I was banging on fuel cut at around 4500rpm, and that was with a leaky wastegate. I actually hate to see that head go to waste, but I think I'll be happier with the 2j overall, so...
tissimo;1130875 said:False, very little has to be done to the firewall to fit the twins. I banged my firewall on freshly painted engine bay (forgot before sending to paint) and only a very minor crack in the paint as a result.
Is there a thread somewhere I can read up on how much/where you have to bang the firewall, or perhaps could you point it out on your picture? I can't even tell where you were hitting, to be honest.
Oh, and nice taste in cars man, TWO All-Tracs? You lucky bast...