2jzgte hx35

[robert.beltran91]

So I been trying to find more information on this set up and so far I haven't found too much on it other than people saying the holset hx40 is better, but I have a 2jzgte aristo that is in pieces i been reading around and been trying to find as much info as I can and everyone seems to perfer single turbo over the twins. I have a daily driver 300zx and want to have my '91 mkiii as a drift car. what does anyone know about the hx35 on the 2j. I found the turbo for $100 at a local shop with no shaft play. How much mods or work would i have to put in to get that set up? Is it worth it? What kinda numbers is that set up pulling

Thanks in advance

 

[destrux]

If you want to know about the Holset turbos punch this into google:

site:dsmtuners.com holset

Also check out this page on the same site, it has condensed info of that search: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/turbo-system-tech/362444-holset-turbos-faq.html

The DSM guys love those things. They have dug up more info than anyone about them and have been pushing their limits more than anyone. Just keep in mind some of those guys run a Bullseye Power turbine housing which is a lower a/r than the holset factory housing and lowers spool RPM by about 750 rpm. You can get a T3 version of that BEP housing that fits our stuff, but it costs $200 by itself. The original turbine housings are a massive a/r (between .89 and 1.26) and some of them spool like the titanic.

Personally, if I were building a drift car I'd use either an HX35W with a BEP .68 a/r housing or a HY35W (it comes with a T3 .65 a/r housing on it from holset, but it has a smaller turbine wheel so it doesn't support the same HP as the HX35 does). Both will cost you about the same, because used HY35W's cost about $350. I'm running an HY35W on my 1JZ, it spools a little slow, it would have awesome spool on a 2JZ though. An HX40 would have noticeable lag, fine for a drag car, not for a drift car.

 

[destrux]

Forgot this...

You'll also need a t3 manifold or a T4 manifold with an adapter. You need to run a 2005 dodge ram cummins turbo oil drain tube, because even though a garret T4 turbo drain will fit, it's too small inside and will lead to blown turbo seals. You need to figure out how to connect the end of that tube to the oil return on the block. You can do it however you want, but I used the original fitting, cut it, and welded a -12AN weld bung to it with a -12AN hose fitting on that, and used a piece of racing hose rated to 350 degrees to connect to the dodge accordion tube. That was the easiest way I could figure out.

You also need to run a -4AN feed line with a .100" restrictor. You can get that on ebay. It connects to the turbo with a banjo bolt, you can find what size threads you need on the bolt on that DSM site I linked to (I don't remember it offhand or I'd tell you).

Oh and you'll need to weld the internal wastegate flap shut if the turbo you're using has one, because it was designed for a diesel engine running at low RPM (below 3000) and it's too small to control boost on a high rpm engine (it will boost creep). The manifold you need should be setup for an external gate anyway, so this isn't a big deal.

I'm just realizing this is the 10th time I typed this all out. I really need to save some of my threads and link people to them. Mountain dew makes me type really fast though...

 

[robert.beltran91]

cool man i actually found out better how to navigate the site so i did get a bit more info on the whole set up but thanks you put a lot more info than what i found i'll take pix of the set up right now i'm just waiting for the turbo to be balanced shoulld be done by today i'll let you know how everything goes!

Forgot this...

You'll also need a t3 manifold or a T4 manifold with an adapter. You need to run a 2005 dodge ram cummins turbo oil drain tube, because even though a garret T4 turbo drain will fit, it's too small inside and will lead to blown turbo seals. You need to figure out how to connect the end of that tube to the oil return on the block. You can do it however you want, but I used the original fitting, cut it, and welded a -12AN weld bung to it with a -12AN hose fitting on that, and used a piece of racing hose rated to 350 degrees to connect to the dodge accordion tube. That was the easiest way I could figure out.

You also need to run a -4AN feed line with a .100" restrictor. You can get that on ebay. It connects to the turbo with a banjo bolt, you can find what size threads you need on the bolt on that DSM site I linked to (I don't remember it offhand or I'd tell you).

Oh and you'll need to weld the internal wastegate flap shut if the turbo you're using has one, because it was designed for a diesel engine running at low RPM (below 3000) and it's too small to control boost on a high rpm engine (it will boost creep). The manifold you need should be setup for an external gate anyway, so this isn't a big deal.

I'm just realizing this is the 10th time I typed this all out. I really need to save some of my threads and link people to them. Mountain dew makes me type really fast though...

 

[robert.beltran91]

i actually got the turbo from a dsm guy lol

If you want to know about the Holset turbos punch this into google:

site:dsmtuners.com holset

Also check out this page on the same site, it has condensed info of that search: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/turbo-system-tech/362444-holset-turbos-faq.html

The DSM guys love those things. They have dug up more info than anyone about them and have been pushing their limits more than anyone. Just keep in mind some of those guys run a Bullseye Power turbine housing which is a lower a/r than the holset factory housing and lowers spool RPM by about 750 rpm. You can get a T3 version of that BEP housing that fits our stuff, but it costs $200 by itself. The original turbine housings are a massive a/r (between .89 and 1.26) and some of them spool like the titanic.

Personally, if I were building a drift car I'd use either an HX35W with a BEP .68 a/r housing or a HY35W (it comes with a T3 .65 a/r housing on it from holset, but it has a smaller turbine wheel so it doesn't support the same HP as the HX35 does). Both will cost you about the same, because used HY35W's cost about $350. I'm running an HY35W on my 1JZ, it spools a little slow, it would have awesome spool on a 2JZ though. An HX40 would have noticeable lag, fine for a drag car, not for a drift car.