i have an aristo 2jz turbo that im about to mate the harness to my body plugs for my 1991 supra turbo. i have the motor on the stand complete now and my question is should i mate the harnesses with the engine out or should i wait till i drop the motor in and see how much wire i need to ready the body plugs under the dash. My aristo harness is not extended either im going to fit inside the dash somehow which is why im asking this question. thanks
2jz to ma70 body plugs
- Thread starter jesse_rc1991
- Start date
i still have your number if its the same. Thats what i was thinking my only problem was i didnt want to make the body plugs to long. unwrap the aristo harness?? i hope not cause i already have everything assembled on the aristo motor. i was just going to solder the body plugs into the correct pins on the aristo harness and ecu. and if your talking about the stock harness on for my 7mgte i just cut the body plugs off saturday already.
Do it with engine on the stand. Just add 20" and be done... I would've suggested cutting the 7M harness with 20" on it and attaching the signals from the big block/connector from the Aristo harness, and extending the ECU connector by 20"... I just went 18" with my last one and is almost right, but I could still use another inch or two for some connectors.
You will have some slack, but I promise you will be fine with it. Much better than trying to make an exact fit of all the wires/connections, working at the dash.
You will have some slack, but I promise you will be fine with it. Much better than trying to make an exact fit of all the wires/connections, working at the dash.
20" seems kinda excessive doesnt it? i was planning on going this route look at post 18 how gurley does it with a 2in hole from post 3:
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?141394-Routing-Aristo-2jz-harness/page2
it seems to reach pretty good under the dash and to the glove box location. i was planning on doing that too just soldering the wires i need to from the aristo body plug and from the E-10 ecu plug seemed easy enough. and i did strip down b3 connector all the way to where it connects to the trannyfor the output speed and also the m1 plug for the reverse lights. so i figured that was a good way to go.
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?141394-Routing-Aristo-2jz-harness/page2
it seems to reach pretty good under the dash and to the glove box location. i was planning on doing that too just soldering the wires i need to from the aristo body plug and from the E-10 ecu plug seemed easy enough. and i did strip down b3 connector all the way to where it connects to the trannyfor the output speed and also the m1 plug for the reverse lights. so i figured that was a good way to go.
so did you extened your harness? the problem I see now is the abs lines are in the way. there is a small gap inbetween two lines right above the throttle pedal but only maybe for about a 1.5" hole did you come across this? also how did you guys route the alternator wiring and battery wire to alternator? not wire the thing just route it to the right sideSatan;1965487 said:
I extended my harness... This time, I used spare 2JZ ECU connectors (E9 & E10), with about 3 feet of wire (took from a junkyard Lexus). I repinned as needed for 2JZ-GTE ECU and cut at ~18", stripped/soldered/heatshrinked. For the dash connections, I also kept the entire 7M wire/circuits (for reverse lights, PPS, etc) that I integrated into the harness. I soldered each of the dash connectors to "near" the same length as the ECU. One reason I wanted the ECU wires longer, was because I thought about mounting the ECU on the floor (like in the MKIV).
now im thinking of just extending my harness...was it a lot easier going that route, besides soldering the harness? I can solder and have no problem doin that its just is it better going that route instead? plus the wireing also. the one I got at orielly the last time didn't have as much copper strands as the factory Toyota harness even though they were the same gauge. what would be a good place to get enough wire to extend it. also what gauge sizes would I need?
I extended once, using standard, off-the-shelf, wires. The harness ended up almost too thick, to pull into the cabin. Just get an old dash/engine harness and cut 20" of wire off of it. Just match the gauge and solder and you extend a handful of wires at a time. Don't cut too close to the connectors... I think I cut my Aristo E9/E10 wires at about 6". You will get in the rhythm... Select about 10 wires (different colors, so that you don't accidentally solder the wrong ones together) cut, add 2 pieces of heatshrink, strip/twist/flux/solder, then wipe the flux off and pull the heatshrink over and heat it. NOTE: Matching the colors from the donor harness is not necessary and a bit tedious.
In my latest harness, I used the E9/E10 from a Lexus GE and it had about 3 feet of wire on it. I repinned it to match my GTE pinouts and then cut at 20". I then cut/soldered to extend, but instead of 2 solder points with a routine extension, I only ended up with 1 solder point per wire (make sense?).
If anything, I have a bunch of harness/dash wire that I brought from TX. I can take a look and cut-off/send you a bunch. But, I'd recommend you go to the junkyard and get the GE connector and harness anyways. They usually cut it at the firewall and it provides a bit of extra wire to use. Even if you do not repin, you have an extra E9/E10 to use later or as a spare set.
In my latest harness, I used the E9/E10 from a Lexus GE and it had about 3 feet of wire on it. I repinned it to match my GTE pinouts and then cut at 20". I then cut/soldered to extend, but instead of 2 solder points with a routine extension, I only ended up with 1 solder point per wire (make sense?).
If anything, I have a bunch of harness/dash wire that I brought from TX. I can take a look and cut-off/send you a bunch. But, I'd recommend you go to the junkyard and get the GE connector and harness anyways. They usually cut it at the firewall and it provides a bit of extra wire to use. Even if you do not repin, you have an extra E9/E10 to use later or as a spare set.
if I do ill just get some better wire. did you stagger the solders when it was too thick? is there any special details to watch for with shielded wires? maybe cut far up where they are unshielded?
im in the process of extending my harness and am a bit confused on how to wire my starter. where im at right now is I have it wired on my wiring map that I drew out for B1 pin#10 to wire into body plug F pin#1 and that's all it would need to crank correct? well at least that's the way it looks to me on the diagrams.
aristo starter diagram
1991 7mgte starter diagram
aristo starter diagram
1991 7mgte starter diagram
Yes, stagger the solder points, so that the harness does have 1 big lump... I actually used different color heatshrink, so that I could tell which bundles to revisit (if I had an issue with 1 wire, etc).
For which signals, I tied to which connectors/pins, look here http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?466152-Wiring-Peer-Review-Aristo-ECU-Harness-in-91
The 1st post (wire map) hasn't been updated in awhile, so please verify your pin outs... My Supra has an "auto" chassis, so may be a bit different. There are various changes/updates throughout that thread.
For which signals, I tied to which connectors/pins, look here http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?466152-Wiring-Peer-Review-Aristo-ECU-Harness-in-91
The 1st post (wire map) hasn't been updated in awhile, so please verify your pin outs... My Supra has an "auto" chassis, so may be a bit different. There are various changes/updates throughout that thread.
was that a yes to my starter wire question or to the stagger solder points?? yea i staggered mine too but still got about 40 wires to go. im going with off the shelf wire instead of another ecu plug. and i think i used your wire map too. heres my layout. also for the body plugs would the same length as the ecu plugs be ok to reach the plugs under the dash or add a few more inches?
View attachment 2JZ MKIII Wire Map(jesse1).pdf
View attachment 2JZ MKIII Wire Map(jesse1).pdf
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exactly what I was thinking for the starter B1 pin10 to F1. now ive been frying my brain and double checking all the wiring now and ive got a few bugs I cant seem to figured out.
1.)
in my post #12 ,talking about the pin 76 and 77 (the NSW &STA wires) im just going to delete them from their body plugs E4 & E5. now my question is should I solder them together to a ground because I have heard of people saying that they cant rev past a certain RPM (4500 or 5500 or something) and they do this to solve their problem. So is it necessary to do this, or I just heat shrink them off separately?
2.)
also for the ac clutch to work would I just have to wire in the blue wire by the fuse box to the compressor and it should work when I try to kick it on with my climate control button or is their more to it?
1.)
in my post #12 ,talking about the pin 76 and 77 (the NSW &STA wires) im just going to delete them from their body plugs E4 & E5. now my question is should I solder them together to a ground because I have heard of people saying that they cant rev past a certain RPM (4500 or 5500 or something) and they do this to solve their problem. So is it necessary to do this, or I just heat shrink them off separately?
2.)
also for the ac clutch to work would I just have to wire in the blue wire by the fuse box to the compressor and it should work when I try to kick it on with my climate control button or is their more to it?
going over it again. I was thinking of connecting the NSW & STA wires to B1 pin #5, which is the + for the circuit opening relay. so they would be grounded when the key is in the ON position and have power going to them in the CRANK postion to get the motor started easier. Do the NSW & STA wires output any voltage that might feed the B1 pin#5, because looking at the 7mgte wiring diagram it also bites into B1 pin#10 which i will use to feed the starter, or are they just input signals?