2JZ Swap Starts Here(HopeFully!)

[IBoughtASupra]

Ok, guys, I bought a 1987 Toyota Supra Turbo Hardtop Shell for 1000. Just a shell with a few extras such as Tiens and leather seats redone.

My friend just finished his 7M and he only put in forged internals in it and that turbo spools so fast with his HKS intake exhuast and blow off, it is insane.

I am learning how to drive stick and my Supra is the first stick shift car that I am going to be driving. I sold my 300ZX Non Turbo today for $2,500, I bought it for $2,300 and needed to get rid of it so I can build the Supra.

I now have $3,000 dollars and need a engine and gearbox for my shell. The
7M is okay, but old. The 1Z is low on torque but the 2JZ....enough said. I don't want to do a 1.5JZ because I am on a budget.

I can get the engine, harness, igniter, map sensor and ECU for $1,800. I did my research and know I need the bellhousing and 1JZ flywheel.

Since this is my first stick shift car with a 2JZ, I know I will have to keep the boost low to drive it and get used to it but I have seen problems with people doing this swap. Problems suchs as the car not hitting full boost all the time, it is random,, or boosting and then shutting off. Is this caused by wiring problems?

How good is Dr Tweak because I believe I will let him do my harness for my 2JZ. Next, I have looked at people with 2JZ's in MKIII's and notice that the sensors on the left side are gone and the Map sensor is there, are they hidden or do most of them get eliminated? Thanks, Andy.

I AM SEARCHING AND READING THE 2JZ SWAP THREADS AS WELL. PLEASE DON'T FLAME, I AM NEW TO THE SURPA GAME.

 

[zSP3CTERz]

i heard the Dr. Tweak does really good harness conversions visit here..

http://www.phoenixtuning.com/

 

[IBoughtASupra]

Here I what I know I need so far..

1)2JZ-GTE Engine With ECU, Harness, Map Sensor and Igniter - Rear Sump, I heard the Chaser ones are harder to wire? Which is the best, Chaser, Aristo, or one from a Supra?

2)1JZ Bell Housing.
3)1JZ FlyWheel.
4)Mounts.
5)2JZ Throttle Cable.
5)7M GTE Cliutch Which I Have. (ClutchMaster's Stage 2....Any good?)
6)Do I need a oil pressure sender adapter?
7)1JZ Igniter if the engine did not come with one.

I know all the other little things such as getting the 7M wiring harness and 2JZ harness compiled together and the little things like a intercooler and exhuast and "Yes, I plan on doing the timing belt before dropping the engine in along with plugs."

One thing I must ask, what is the most common problem when doing these swaps?

I right now have $3,000 dollars saved, well, $2,992.43, LOL! I know I need about another one thousand more which I am save later for the last things to buy like the intercooler and exhuast.

Am I missing anything? Thanks, Andy.

 

[IBoughtASupra]

I am dreading using a Automatic 2JZ-GTE ECU. A mechanic told me a manual car will never get good performance out of a Automatic computer. Is this true?

 

[Dirgle]

Mine seems fine using the r154 with an auto ECU. I know with some cars it is a big deal, but the Aristo ecu doesn't seem to care.

And yes you will need the adapter for the oil pressure sending unit, you can pick one up from Driftmotion. You can pick up a lot of what you need from driftmotion.

 

[IBoughtASupra]

So you have a 2JZ in your MKIII, what was your main problems in doing the swap? Who did your wiring, Dr Tweak?

 

[Dirgle]

Yeah, I'm finishing up the swap. I did my own wiring because I enjoy a challange. It's part of the reason I picked the 2jz swap. But for everybody else I would recommend the Dr. Tweak harness.

There were a lot of little things. I'm at work right now but when I get home I'll list some of the issues I ran into.

 

[Dirgle]

Ok, now I'm home. First a couple questions.

Are you keeping the twins?

Are you keeping A/C?

 

[bishop40k]

To answer some of these questions for you. You will want one out of a Supra, that way you keep the mid sump aspect. Chasers and Aristos are front sumped 2jz (and I don't think Chasers ever got 2jzgte's). As far as wiring, you may be able to run it off the 7m electronics (not 100% on running 2jzgte on 7mgte electronics, I know you can do it on 2jzge-t's).

 

[IBoughtASupra]

Stock Twins and no A/C. So one from a Aristo will require a new oil pan, I read that the MKIII 2JZ FAQS. Dr Tweak has the wiring, I saw some of his work and it looks good. Forgetting thr intercooler and stuff like that, how much would a 2JZ and a R154 run me....including the flywheel and bell housing? I have a new clutch already.

 

[bishop40k]

Well due to the fact that you would have to put together a 2jz and a r154 (no car CAME with that config), you'd be looking at around $1200-1500 for the engine + 450-600 for flywheel and bellhousing + cost of tranny. Did your car COME 5spd or auto? If 5spd and it was an original turbo, you SHOULD already have a r154 (unless someone swapped it out for a w58). If it's a w58, it should handle the stock 2jzgte as long as you don't do too much retarded driving. If you haven't purchased a 2jzgte engine yet, you could always go with a 2jzge and then throw a turbo on it (may cost more in the long run, but you can peice it together), also alot of 2jzge's are less abused then the GTE's out there. You could use either a SC300 or Supra 2jzge as they are both sumped right (I'm about 95% positive SC's use the same sump as supras), and they are generally much cheaper than USDM 2jzgtes from Supras.

 

[IBoughtASupra]

I'll get the GTE and look for a R154.

 

[IBoughtASupra]

JDMEngineDepot.com, in New Jersey, has the whole setup for $1,799 but that is with a automatic tranny, if I call and ask without the tranny, how much is a good price? Thanks.

 

[bishop40k]

As I said, I have seen 2jzgte's from $1200-2500, also drastically depends on who has it, what car it's from, what year, condition of internals etc etc. I myself am doing a 2jzge swap into my 89 Cressida, and then as money allows I'll peice together my turbo setup and management.

You said you bought a turbo car, and it's a stick. Unless someone has done something, you already HAVE an r154, there's a couple ways to tell them apart, but I'm not that familiar with indentifying them. Easiest way is r154s are pull type clutches and w58s are push type. I think the r154 also uses extra braces to the engine, but don't know if that was ONLY for the r154s or what.

 

[Dirgle]

He said he only bought the shell, so he still needs to get the transmission. Also the extra bracing for the R154 is only on the 7M, the 2JZ has this bracing built into the oil pan.

Price of the motor really depends on mileage and if all the electronics are there. If you get a good low miles one with everything it will be in $2300+ range. Low miles being roughly 40,000 or less. The low mile engines are getting harder and harder to find. The more miles on the motor the faster the price drops. Just remember that on average the JDM engines are not maintained nearly as well as there USDM counterparts. Mainly due to the fact that the Japanese replace there cars after so many miles due to taxes that they don't see much reason in spending money on maintenance when they are going to spend even more money to buy a new car shortly. That said high mileage JDM motors can be really beat up.

You will also need a mid/rear sump oil pan if your going to drop an Aristo in there. That is the upper pan lower pan, baffle and oil pick up tube. All these can be gotten off of a MKIV 2JZ-GE for relatively cheap. You just need to drill and tap the oil return hole in to the oil pan. The 2JZ-GE pan is cast for it, it just hasn't been drilled. One of the things I do recommend is that you pick up a MKIV oil return Y-pipe. The one on the Aristo can be used but due to the change in it's location on the mid/rear sump oil pan, the angle is slightly off. So the Aristo one is place under a significant amount of stress, and should be replace with the MKIV one for reliability purposes.

Another thing is the water neck. The coolant return pipe on the Aristo sticks out farther than the on on the 7M or MKIV 2JZ.Due to this if you decide to you the mechanical fan(Which I did) then you need to use a different fan clutch. Contact Aaron over at driftmotion I believe he knows which one. You will also be needing the get the MKIV water pump.

Some other things.
For the intake side the BIC mounts interfere with the intake manifold support brace. The brace has to be removed and two vacuum hard lines are riveted to it, that have to be drilled free.

On the exhaust side, my 87 engine mount(Not the BIC metal half, but the square rubber) interfered with one bolt on the Y-pipe coming off the turbo.

For the Aristo motor, when your change over to the rear/mid sump oil pan the oil stick has nowhere to bolt to, a custom bracket has to be manufactured.
There has been others but that is what I remember off the top of my head.

 

[tlo86]

fan clutch doesnt matter its the fan - you need a turbo fan not a non turbo fan. the waterneck sticks out more than a non turbo 2jz because they route to the front and go to the other side of the engine.

i didnt remove the brace i just unbolted it and moved it slightly heh. and my oil stick bolted to another spot on the intake manifold.

1jz pans bolt right up that was the easiest to source from what ive seen... find any mkii site plenty of people willing to trade cause they need the front sump

 

[bishop40k]

Damn, didn't see the "SHELL" word in the first post. Dirgle brings up some good points. When I initially looked at doing a 2jzgte swap into my Cressida, I was set to put aside around $5K to do everything, and that was just for STOCK 2jzgte. Whereas the actual swap would cost less than that, it is always a really good idea to set aside much more money than needed than getting close to the end of the build to realize that you're broke. I've got about $3K set aside for my 2jzge swap, and it'll take more to go turbo and such, since I'm completely rebuilding the GE engine to handle a decent amount of boost.

Best thing I can recommend is find a starting point, whether it's engine or transmission. Buy that point, and then start peicing together the rest. If you're not in a huge rush to get the car on the road, you can save a good chunk of money by shopping around and buying up other's shattered dreams.

 

[Dirgle]

fan clutch doesnt matter its the fan - you need a turbo fan not a non turbo fan. the waterneck sticks out more than a non turbo 2jz because they route to the front and go to the other side of the engine.

i didnt remove the brace i just unbolted it and moved it slightly heh. and my oil stick bolted to another spot on the intake manifold.

1jz pans bolt right up that was the easiest to source from what ive seen... find any mkii site plenty of people willing to trade cause they need the front sump

Strange, I used the turbo fan/clutch and it defiantly didn't work. I had to go source a different fan clutch through driftmotion. I still used my turbo fan, and bolted it to the new clutch. The Aristos water neck sticks out farther than the MKIV's 2JZ-GTE

As for the brace I'm not sure how you moved it? I was afraid if I tried it would place undo stress on the upper intake manifold, completely defeating the purpose of it being there.

And I couldn't find a bolt hole close enough to use the stock brace on the dip stick. It might be because you used the 1JZ pan. I had to use metal hole strap and connected it to a bolt 1 inch over and farther up the dip stick.

 

[tlo86]

Strange, I used the turbo fan/clutch and it defiantly didn't work. I had to go source a different fan clutch through driftmotion. I still used my turbo fan, and bolted it to the new clutch. The Aristos water neck sticks out farther than the MKIV's 2JZ-GTE

As for the brace I'm not sure how you moved it? I was afraid if I tried it would place undo stress on the upper intake manifold, completely defeating the purpose of it being there.

And I couldn't find a bolt hole close enough to use the stock brace on the dip stick. It might be because you used the 1JZ pan. I had to use metal hole strap and connected it to a bolt 1 inch over and farther up the dip stick.

they dont stick out more, the fan clutch is the same part # turbo or not only the fan is different (i did not check the 2jz part #'s from a n/a gs300 just supras and sc300's). i used the turbo fan and same part# fan clutch for every 2jz on a 93+ aristo engine and a pre 93' aristo engine and they worked fine. i also used a non turbo fan on a sc300 w/ spacers on the fan and it works too. im thinking you got the wrong fan because the non turbo fan is too close but the turbo one sits just right

without shroud

with shroud

either way you can see they are far from the water neck

just for good measure
the pre 93 aristo was exactly the same waterneck as this one

unbolted it and turn you can check my build thread you can somewhat see it in some pictures.

i mightve ended up using a cheap bracket alone with it cant remember i did it the day i sold it lol

 

[Dirgle]

All I know is that when I used the 7M-GTE fan and 1JZ fan clutch this is the problem I ran into.

To solve this I replaced the fan clutch with one from an LS400. I still used the 7M fan blade assy. This is the only combination that worked for me.

P.S. how were you getting a fan clutch assy. for an Aristo, they were Hydro?