2jz question...

[supra8903]

does this sound right:

2jz into a mk3

Need:
2jzgte long block
oil pan
bic mounts
1jz harness and ecu
single turbo kit
1jz bellhousing
1jz flywheel
custom intercooler piping
2j power steering line
custom dp






ok, about this what else is needed, and whats the deal with running the 2j on 1j electronics, any input will help.



joe

 

[againstdawall06]

I dont think you need BIC mounts for an 89. But the think 2jz will run the 1jz wiring harness. i believe most of the conectors will plug in except for a couple (like the 02) though you will need some kinda of fuel tuning cause the 1jz ecu is programed for the 1jz injectors(370?) and the JDM 2jz uses 440s. the 1jz wiring harness will only make it easier for wiring. you could wire in the 2jz ecu using the link at the top of this sub-forum section.

hope that helps a lil.

o and you need a 7m clutch.

 

[OneJoeZee]

I dont think you need BIC mounts for an 89.

He will if his car is an early 89.

 

[p5150]

go to www.clubna-t.com and read some of the stickies

 

[tlo86]

the mounts will help it clear it a lot better. to be honest it might help a TON if you get a turbo kit to go along with it that rear turbo does not like your firewall. or you could cut into your firewall

if you have traction control on the 2jz you might want to think about getting rid of the throttle body for it.

and you must be wanting to put in a R154? need that too

the 2jz ecu is doable but i think it isnt worth working out that wiring nightmare unless you have a lot of time on your hands and you have a lot of patience.

electric fans might help as well.

if its JDM dont forget USDM cams and inj's very cheap used

 

[7Mboost]

Since your going single turbo maybe you should go ahead and go Map or standalone?

 

[supra8903]

i really don't know what im gonna do.... im on the fence 1j or 2j...... i want a 400-500 rwhp, that i do not have to worry about......

 

[tturnpaw]

also the 88-92 corolla throttle cable if your going gte. Im shooting for 500-550whp with a 2jgte swap. Cake i know, but im not going to run any 7m wiring other than the body harness. I would suggest stand alone, preferably stinger, ems would be tough figuring out the wiring mess for a 2j. Have you thought about a 1.5jz? You could do a 1jz swap, then later swap shortblocks. Could make wiring a bit easier. They also say the 1j head is superior.

 

[mattjk]

They also say the 1j head is superior.

no

 

[OneJoeZee]

Have you thought about a 1.5jz? You could do a 1jz swap, then later swap shortblocks. Could make wiring a bit easier. They also say the 1j head is superior.

Why? If you plan to have a 3L down the road, no point trying to go through the hassle of a 1.5JZ. Toyota already made a readily available 3L JZ engine.

 

[tturnpaw]

ive heard wiring is easier. Well, considering i exclude the 2j on 7m wiring and a maf. I cant remember when i read it, it wasnt too far back but someone quoted the 1j head is better than the 2j in terms of flowing stock for stock. I was just giving him options, i plan to go the 2jgte route just to aviod the 2j na/t hassles and expenses, but noone questions that. I also prefer maps and a 12 point crank sensor

Why? If you plan to have a 3L down the road, no point trying to go through the hassle of a 1.5JZ. Toyota already made a readily available 3L JZ engine.

 

[tturnpaw]

he also never said he was serious about the 2j

Why? If you plan to have a 3L down the road, no point trying to go through the hassle of a 1.5JZ. Toyota already made a readily available 3L JZ engine.

 

[againstdawall06]

The "1j head flows better" mith has been put to rest a few times. If i wasnt so lazy i would link you to the sources. Just search for it if your intrested.

 

[tturnpaw]

well then its settled. Im still a noob no doubt, but im only on here for research. Whoever started the myth should be punished with the search feature.

 

[got_boosted]

Why? If you plan to have a 3L down the road, no point trying to go through the hassle of a 1.5JZ. Toyota already made a readily available 3L JZ engine.

And since this was incorrectly stated above, the 2JZ head DOES breathe better.

2JZ > 1JZ. More displacement, better head, more advanced and capable factory ECU. The wiring isn't that big of a deal either. Just find some pinouts, and sit down with a bunch of wire, solder and heatshrink tubing. You'll be using the body plugs from your original wiring harness and wiring those to the 2JZ engine harness to make it plug into the rest of the car. The 2JZ ecu is also a little larger than the factory ECU and will not fit the factory location to my knowledge. Keep this is mind and allow for relocating the ECU when doing the wiring. I put mine down under the carpet on the kickboard beneathe the glovebox.

Some advice I can give is that if you want to keep the A/C, get a front clip and save the lines the connect to the 2JZ compressor so you can get custom lines made to connect the existing A/C system to the 2JZ compressor. This is much easier than mixing and matching compressors. The compressors that come with 2JZ's are also larger R134a compressors with are more efficient. I removed my A/C, but it's possible to keep it with a little extra work.

Collin

 

[tturnpaw]

Thanks for the a/c help! I was actually curious about what i was in store for.

 

[tturnpaw]

Heres one place where i read the 1j head "outflows" the 2j stock for stock as i said in my post.
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=39929&page=2

and i quote by "The Reaper"
'its just a far better platform...and after talking to HAMSmkiii 1.5JZ is a joke and it would be smarter to go full 2J rather than 1.5JZ

he said he dropped 3K into his 1J heads and he said it BARELY BARELY BARELY outflows a stock 2J head.'
(end quote)

Im on here for research, so whatever i read is what i believe because i do not have the time to experiment. So i speak from others.

 

[The Reaper]

when SF stops being retarded i will find the PM and post it...

this is what he told me. He said if he had to do it all over again he would do the full 2J swap cause the 1.5JZ just isn't worth thr trouble and it would've been WAY cheaper for him to do a singled 2JZ and put out as much if not MORE power than he's doing now.

believe me or dont believe me i dont care. you ask a question be prepared to get different answers and opinions

 

[OneJoeZee]

ive heard wiring is easier. Well, considering i exclude the 2j on 7m wiring and a maf. I cant remember when i read it, it wasnt too far back but someone quoted the 1j head is better than the 2j in terms of flowing stock for stock. I was just giving him options, i plan to go the 2jgte route just to aviod the 2j na/t hassles and expenses, but noone questions that. I also prefer maps and a 12 point crank sensor

You've heard this, you're heard that. Provide your sources.

I've posted this same thing in another thread about 1.5JZ...

It's not as cut and dry as just slapping a 2J block on a 1J head.

 

[OneJoeZee]

he also never said he was serious about the 2j

Well if he's not serious about a 2J, no way in hell is he serious about a 1.5J.

I wish I had went 2JZ looking back. Sure, I'm 1.5JZ now, but I've spent too much to get there. If I were going to start from scratch, knowing what I do now, I'd just get a 2JZ.

- Chris

LOL it's not that easy.

The waternecks are wrong. The 1JZ waterneck bypass is too short, the 2JZ waterneck sensor ports are wrong. The 2JZ bypass pipe is longer, but not long enough.

Something is different about the crank sprockets. I am using a 1JZ spocket and it set my timing belt back too far, cauusing it to shred last night... Thank god nothing bad happened.

The brackets that hold up the intake and exhaust manifolds won't work, they're too short. The dipstick tube is too short, it wont bolt up to the intake manifold like it should. You'll need to upgrade the injectors because the increased displacement will cause the car to run too lean on the 380's. You'll need 550's to make it right.

You'll need a 2JZ oil pump for sure, The front covers will not align anymore, so you can forget about putting them on.

Exhaust fitment and intercooler pipes will become a problem since anything attacing to the head will now sit 1.4" taller in the engine bay. I had to modify all my intercooler pipes and my exhaust to bolt up to my downpipe.

You will need a 2JZ timing belt, not a 1JZ.

Anyone who tells you that it is simply plug and play has never actually done the swap. It is NOT, trust me. It's nothing major, but these things all have to be addressed.

- Chris

I believe you whole heartedly, trust me.

I took the common word that the 1.5JZ is a plug n' play deal like most on the SF do.

Anyhow, I was just trying to dispell the myth here so you weren't led down a false path. If you do it, prepare to make adjustments and custom work.

Also, keep in mind that stock to stock, you'll only see a 25-30 hp difference in the displacement. If you plan to go nuts like I did, the difference can pay off, but a BPU wouldn't really see the difference.

If I were BPU, I wouldn't do it in retrospect.

Is that enough information for you?