2jz oil pan issue

[SMP142]

so my question is, will a 2jzgte (aristo) motor fit in the mkiii without swapping out the oil pan and sump? from what i read everyone changes it from a front pickup to a rear. i figure its not gonna fit but just thought i would ask before i go and try to find one.

 

[tig321]

No you need a rear sump pan/pickup, the cross member is in the way. There's alot of other info on what you need if you search. I don't really know much else on the subject since I went built 7m instead of 1j.

 

[jdmk3]

Yes, you need the rear sump JZ Series oil pan complete. There are a number of other things you will also need for the swap such as 2J high pressure power steering line, 2J throttle cable, JZ engine mounts, Custom extended wiring harness 2J-7M, 1J engine brackets, and 1J bellhousing if you're going 5 Speed R154 like i am (6 Speed Getrag tranny will require banging out your tranny walls to make it fit). Just search and make sure you know what it takes in order to do the swap. Good Luck!! I'll be posting pics of my 2JMK3 swap in the near future.....:icon_razz

 

[89supturbo]

so is it just the pan that has to be swapped on an aristo motor or do you have to mod the pickup as well?

 

[tig321]

I'm not sure:dunno: , but I would think the pickup's would be different for front vs. rear sump

 

[drunk_medic]

Regardless, buy a pickup. They are cheap. The parts you will need for the oil pan are [plus what I paid for mine from Elmhurst Toyota]:
Part #:12111-46052 UPPER PAN [$240.38]
Part #:12121-46030 PAN BAFFLE [$9.26]
Part #:12102-46031 LOWER PAN [$85.26]
Part #:15104-46030 STRAINER [$32.57]

 

[Satan]

When I replaced the pan in mine, I also replaced the pick-up and it looked like you could not use the same front sump pick-up, for the rear sump set up.

Been awhile, so I don't exactly remember why, but for about $35 it was an easy choice to make (having it on hand, just in case). Waiting for parts, while you're in the middle of work, sux.

 

[SMP142]

thanks guys. i figured i would have to swap out the oil pan and pickup. now as far as the harness goes, did you get the usdm harness? i am going standalone so i am in the situation where i have to.

 

[drunk_medic]

If you have money, buying a USDM harness could be to your advantage, however I might want to point out that you would still have to do a wiring job on it unless you are converting the 2JZ to US spec, at least at the connection to the MAP sensor. Also, some 2JZ wiring harnesses are different at the ECU; the ones we are all used to have a block of 40 pins, and two of these blocks together to form 80 pins. These connectors are the same size. The other connector I saw is a funky shape compared to the standard 40-pin's rectangle, and I do not have wiring data for it anywhere.
For this reason, I have already purchased a US spec 6-speed OBDI ECU, injectors, cams, MAF sensor, turbochargers and more; it just seems like it will make it more of a plug n' play affair. While I am extremely profficient at wiring and reading schematics, it doesn't mean that I want to re-wire if I don't have to. There is no guarantee that a JDM harness is not nicked, kinked or burned when it gets to you, and even a little bit of weather exposure can stack over time. I guess it just depends on what you want to do, and what resources you have at your disposal.
So, for my bit of advice I say this:
US spec? An easy road is to just buy a harness.
J-Spec? Extend your harness.

 

[foreverpsycotic]

couldnt you just run your harness through the speedo cable hole, like the 1j guys are doing?

 

[drunk_medic]

couldnt you just run your harness through the speedo cable hole, like the 1j guys are doing?

Keep in mind that the 2JZ harness is a bit thicker at the harness end. I believe over 80 of the 120 pins in the harness are used, and that's for the manual tranny; more would be used in an auto. As I recall from the 1JZ wiring diagram, not as many pins of the harness are used. The 2JZ connectors are also a bit bigger, and blockier; I don't think they will fit through the speedo hole. You could always mark each individual wire for it's location and release them from the connector [very easy with a small jeweler's flathead screwdriver, actually], feed the wires through the hole, and snap them back in place on the other side of the firewall.

If you are keeping it J-Spec, I think that feeding it through could be a viable solution, but it wouldn't be my cup of tea. To tell you the truth, I'd rather cut a hole on the driver's side of the firewall, rivet a few nutplates in place, then screw the harness environmental protection boot on and weather seal it.

 

[SMP142]

thats sounds like agood idea for the harness. i was planning on just cutting a hole and using the original seal. as far as a harness goes though. i am going standalone. most likely AEM since i can get a good deal on one and that seems to be the most popular with the 2jz. according to what guys tell me on SF, in order to use an AEM you you have to get the usdm harness. otherwise it will not work properly. as much as i dont want to do it. i will prob get a new harness. mine looks pretty rough and i dont really want to sit down and ohm the whole thing out.

 

[p5150]

or for your sump setup you could find a junk 2jzge motor and pull all of the stuff off of it.