2JZ NA-T into MK3
- Thread starter jmcboost
- Start date
jmcboost;1441324 said:
damn that was scary!! why wasn't there any block stoppers infront and behind the front wheels? but it sounds and looks good!
Yes!!! I got the cams in a couple days ago!! WOHOOO!! So i need to order shims and then it's all back together. And I have to order 20 new shims...
that's about $140 just in shims. I'm taking a vacation and then it'll hopefully be back together in 2 weeks and running again!!
---------- Post added at 07:58 AM ---------- Previous post was at 07:53 AM ----------
Oh, and while this was all happening, I picked up a wrecked 1992 sc300 with 183K on the clock. The engine and everything ran perfect. I bought it to part out and keep the shortblock as a spare or sell later if I don't need it. The best part is it was only $400 for the whole car. And also the guy trailer ed it to my house for free!!!!! This is the best craiglist deal I've ever experienced. Not only have I made all of my money back, but I have a "free" block and head ready as a spare. Can you tell I'm excited about this??
that's about $140 just in shims. I'm taking a vacation and then it'll hopefully be back together in 2 weeks and running again!!
---------- Post added at 07:58 AM ---------- Previous post was at 07:53 AM ----------
Oh, and while this was all happening, I picked up a wrecked 1992 sc300 with 183K on the clock. The engine and everything ran perfect. I bought it to part out and keep the shortblock as a spare or sell later if I don't need it. The best part is it was only $400 for the whole car. And also the guy trailer ed it to my house for free!!!!! This is the best craiglist deal I've ever experienced. Not only have I made all of my money back, but I have a "free" block and head ready as a spare. Can you tell I'm excited about this??
Well, she's up and running again!! I have to finish up a few little things, but hopefully I will get a chance to do a little street tuning over the next couple weeks. I do have a a couple questions about the cams I'm using and tuning on them.
The cams are hardwelded regrinds from webcams with an advertised duration of 268. My question is, I've noticed that I'm not getting the vacuum like a used to at 700-800 rpms I think it's only like -10psi at those rpms. I know that as soon as I get over 1000 RPM's the vacuum jumps up quit a bit to like -18psi. So my question is, should I tune around the cams at where they are at for idle, or should I mess with my adjustable cam gears to dial in more vacuum and better idle?
Also, I dropped down from a 3mm MHG to a 1.8mm MHG. Anybody have advice on how this will affect my tune? Should I add more fuel before I start tuning on it or leave it where it is?
The cams are hardwelded regrinds from webcams with an advertised duration of 268. My question is, I've noticed that I'm not getting the vacuum like a used to at 700-800 rpms I think it's only like -10psi at those rpms. I know that as soon as I get over 1000 RPM's the vacuum jumps up quit a bit to like -18psi. So my question is, should I tune around the cams at where they are at for idle, or should I mess with my adjustable cam gears to dial in more vacuum and better idle?
Also, I dropped down from a 3mm MHG to a 1.8mm MHG. Anybody have advice on how this will affect my tune? Should I add more fuel before I start tuning on it or leave it where it is?
Assuming your valve clearances are in spec, I would degree in the cams per the instructions that came from webcams. I want to say my cams Idle'd surprisingly like stock once I got my clearances right. I can't recall my motor pulled 20 in/hg's, or if it was more like 18 in/hg at idle.
I left the cams zero'd out since I did not have adjustable cam gears. I knew it wasn't ideal, but I really just didn't want the layer of complexity.
As I recall, I didn't need to add much (if any) fuel at cruising. The AFR's went a little leaner, but there was no mifire so I left the part-throttle map alone. As far as the WOT, it will be completely different since your torque curve will change dramatically due to the cams. I started with a brand new fuel map in boost, made sure everything was level and smooth, and added about 5% more fuel on top of what was already there. It wasn't very difficult to get the AFR's dialed in from that point.
The thinner HG should not affect your AFR's, but your cams definitely will.
I left the cams zero'd out since I did not have adjustable cam gears. I knew it wasn't ideal, but I really just didn't want the layer of complexity.
As I recall, I didn't need to add much (if any) fuel at cruising. The AFR's went a little leaner, but there was no mifire so I left the part-throttle map alone. As far as the WOT, it will be completely different since your torque curve will change dramatically due to the cams. I started with a brand new fuel map in boost, made sure everything was level and smooth, and added about 5% more fuel on top of what was already there. It wasn't very difficult to get the AFR's dialed in from that point.
The thinner HG should not affect your AFR's, but your cams definitely will.
OK, thanks Scott!! I did have to replace all of my valve shims to get them into spec. After that there where two shims that where border line out of spec, but pretty much right within spec. The webcams are the same as cowboy beebops/TTC performance/ same as yours i think, so I did not have to degree them in. It idles fine at 800 to 900 rpms, it's just not pulling as much vacuum as it used to. I think I will check to see if my cams are timed up with TDC and see about maybe moving the intake cam a little to bring up some vacuum. Is that a good idea?
Well...... I can say that these new cams are fantastic!! It pulls so much harder in the higher RPMs now its a big deference. Also I'm thinking that the 1.8mm HG makes for a more responsive and happy revving engine over the 3mm HG. I'm only boosting 15 psi right now, but it feels like where it was at when it was 20psi with the 3mm HG. I should be able to make it to the dyno with in the next couple weeks and I'll have new numbers and videos too. WOHOOOO!
---------- Post added at 07:01 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:55 PM ----------
Oh, and a couple questions if anybody has some answers...
I'm showing 150psi across the board when I do a cylinder compression test, is that about right for a 2JZGE with a 1.8mm HG?
Also, it seems like my radiator doesn't like to be all the way full to the brim, cuz every time I top it off to the cap, it shoots out about a cup or so of it out of the overfill tank. If I don't fill it all the way up it doesn't shoot any out. I thought I did a pretty good job burping the air out of the system, but what else could be causing this?
---------- Post added at 07:01 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:55 PM ----------
Oh, and a couple questions if anybody has some answers...
I'm showing 150psi across the board when I do a cylinder compression test, is that about right for a 2JZGE with a 1.8mm HG?
Also, it seems like my radiator doesn't like to be all the way full to the brim, cuz every time I top it off to the cap, it shoots out about a cup or so of it out of the overfill tank. If I don't fill it all the way up it doesn't shoot any out. I thought I did a pretty good job burping the air out of the system, but what else could be causing this?
hey i just read your entire thread. great job on your build i will be doing allmost exactly the same in a couple months. im just reading everything i can right now. thanks for all the great info
erags1092;1596205 said:
Great, make sure you check out DOK33 and Hottscennessey's build threads too.
---------- Post added at 07:46 AM ---------- Previous post was at 07:45 AM ----------
Oh, and I figured out the coolant thing, I had my overfill tank lines hooked up wrong.... well it hasn't leaked out so far so I think that fixed it.
So, I have an awesome update to make....
First is that out of my own stupidity I never setup my static timing in the Stinger correctly. After doing so, I found out that my static timing was retarded by about 5 degrees. I will say that after fixing the issue, the car performs way better!!! WOHOOO!! Thanks Aaron at Driftmotion again for all the help!
I will also say to anybody running a stinger or standalone ecu, do this step! It is important and I'm kicking myself for not doing it right the first time!
The other update is that I will hopefully be on the dyno next Saturday. I will let you guys know how it goes with a few videos too.
First is that out of my own stupidity I never setup my static timing in the Stinger correctly. After doing so, I found out that my static timing was retarded by about 5 degrees. I will say that after fixing the issue, the car performs way better!!! WOHOOO!! Thanks Aaron at Driftmotion again for all the help!
I will also say to anybody running a stinger or standalone ecu, do this step! It is important and I'm kicking myself for not doing it right the first time!
The other update is that I will hopefully be on the dyno next Saturday. I will let you guys know how it goes with a few videos too.
OK, so dyno went pretty good. Put 533rwhp and 460 torque at 22psi. Its running great! I did run into a couple snags and I want some guys to give me their input. But I may be having some clutch issues or it could be tuning. Anyway I'm very pleased and will have videos up later.
