2jz gte intake on 2jz ge head

[sk6471]

SD2JZA70, Pm me an actual quote and I'll think about it.

Scott, Thank you for quickly and helpfully answering my questions.

As for the merits of doing a 2jz NA-T swap, most have already been discussed here, but I'll add three very good reasons for it.
1) It's relatively easy and almost completly plug and play.
2) There are lots of 2JZGEs in Lexus's and Supras in this country. The last 2JZGTEs sold in America are almost 10 years old and no 1JZs ever were sold here.
3) 2JZGTE twins won't fit and can't flow much and 1JZGTE twins just plain suck.

Do we know anyone running 2jzge-t that doesn’t have a standalone? I know of Rafael (GeneStarWind or whatever) running just straight 2jzge and he’s pig rich.

The only drawback about an NA-T is that w/o oil squirter you really shouldn't run pig rich. The extra fuel will wash the cylinder walls of all lubrication.

 

[hottscennessey]

Rafael's car is still a mystery.. We don't even know what size injectors were in it when it was running pig rich. All I know is they are not the 7MGE injectors as they should be (since he's running the 7MGE ECU).

 

[sk6471]

Hey Scott, I'm going to jack my own thread and ask you about your setup. What rear end are running and what gear ratio would you recomend for a 2jz?

 

[hottscennessey]

I'm running a 3.91 LSD. The car's really rev happy but I don't have too many traction issues now that I got some wider tires. If I broke this diff and could have any rear end.. I'd keep it the same. It seems to be working for it.

 

[Jaguar]

Whether or not anyone with an MK3 has used the stock manifold is irrelevant. You don't have to use an FFIM. The piping is very similar to a 7M and nobody said you had to pay BL 1200 for a piping kit. Get it made elsewhere for cheaper.

Okay. I'll give you that.

A standalone would be best choice for any swap, anyway. You say it like it's a negative of the process.

Sure it would but it negates the cost effectiveness of the 2jzge-t. A standalone is the way to go for any high performance application, that's a given. However, part of the appeal of the 2jzge-t is the affordability, but if nobody has done it on 7M electronics, and standalone seems to be the only way to go, add $1600 to the tab and maybe 2jzge-t doesn't look so good afterall.

Why worry about what has or hasn't been done before? Decide on something, and make it happen.

7m electronics on a 2jz would be a step backwards imho.

I agree it would be a step backward. I bring up what has and hasn't been done, because everyone says that you can run it on 7M electronics, and yet nobody has done it. I, as the average Supra owner, am not a wiring wizard, I don't have a shop, and I'm not rich. Until I see it happen, then 2jzge-t on 7M electronics running well and running fast will be right there with the Easter Bunny under fiction. Hell, Santa might as well drive it to deliver presents.

I would hate for someone to start this swap thinking 7M electronics only to find out halfway thru that they need $2000 more to go standalone. Take that same $2000 and put it to a 1jz where would you be? :naughty:

Has anyone done this in a MKIII without a standalone or without a FFIM? If so, link me.

Still waiting. :icon_conf

As for the merits of doing a 2jz NA-T swap, most have already been discussed here, but I'll add three very good reasons for it.
1) It's relatively easy and almost completely plug and play.
2) There are lots of 2JZGEs in Lexus's and Supras in this country. The last 2JZGTEs sold in America are almost 10 years old and no 1JZs ever were sold here.
3) 2JZGTE twins won't fit and can't flow much and 1JZGTE twins just plain suck.

1. False.
2. Very true.
3. :nono:

 

[OneJoeZee]

Sure it would but it negates the cost effectiveness of the 2jzge-t. A standalone is the way to go for any high performance application, that's a given. However, part of the appeal of the 2jzge-t is the affordability, but if nobody has done it on 7M electronics, and standalone seems to be the only way to go, add $1600 to the tab and maybe 2jzge-t doesn't look so good afterall.

When you say affordability, be specific. Affordability of what? Getting a running car as inexpensive as possible? Might as well stick to a basic stock 7M or 1J swap.

Affordability of power potential? 2J NA-T beats down GTE in affordability of making power. All the mods you do to the NA-T when you do the swap, you would do to a GTE anyway when making more power. The point of 2J NA-T is to make some nice power and do it for less money than a full GTE swap.

Reffering to SD's post

Quoted for the truth!
It is cheaper to go NA-T 2JZ because money saved in the initial engine cost is put towards performance parts that you would ultimately buy for the GTE. Standalone is the only way to go when building a high horsepower street car and would be needed for either engine when making big power.
I build IC pipe kits for less than half of that price and thats aluminum pipes tig welded,bead rolled with all clamps and couplers. Here is the 2JZGE manifold that I make. pricing is competitive with the other manifolds out there.

 

[hottscennessey]

Jag, when you say 2JZ running off of 7M electronics do you mean the 7M ECU too?

 

[Jaguar]

When you say affordability, be specific. Affordability of what? Getting a running car as inexpensive as possible? Might as well stick to a basic stock 7M or 1J swap.

Affordability of power potential? 2J NA-T beats down GTE in affordability of making power. All the mods you do to the NA-T when you do the swap, you would do to a GTE anyway when making more power. The point of 2J NA-T is to make some nice power and do it for less money than a full GTE swap.

I'll give you that. If a person has a 2jz-gte they will probably at some point go single, however, they will NOT always go standalone. You could make great power with an SAFC and AFPR on a 2jz-gte.

Also, when you swap GTE you don't need a head gasket, to tap the oil pan, or to pay $500-$900 for a FFIM or $1600 for a standalone. Single turbos and manifolds cost about the same ge-t or gte. The 2jz-gte is much more expensive sure, but intercooler, drivetrain aside with the goal of 500 horsepower, the list looks like this:

2jz-gte
Motor: $1600 (TigerJapanese)
XS Power turbo: $350
Oil Line: $150
Down Pipe: $150
SAFC: $250 (Ebay)
AFPR: $200

Total: $2700

vs.

2jz-ge
Motor: $200
XS Power turbo: $350
Oil Line: $150
Down Pipe: $150
FFIM: $750
Standalone: $1600 + tuning
Head Gasket: $150

Total: $3350

 

[Jaguar]

Jag, when you say 2JZ running off of 7M electronics do you mean the 7M ECU too?

Scott you know I love your car and we spent a while on AIM talking about the 2jzge-t swap. If I remember correctly, you said that you could run off a 7M harness and ECU, and you could ditch the distributor by adding 7M coil packs and using the 7M CPS.

 

[sk6471]

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jaguar
Has anyone done this in a MKIII without a standalone or without a FFIM? If so, link me.
Still waiting.

http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=38286

 

[Jaguar]

http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=38286

Still not running... :dunno: I've been following that build closely and there are lots of complicated custom "making it work" stuff happening, and no more 7M coil pack either. Just reading through that thread again makes extending a harness sound like a vacation.

 

[sk6471]

Still not running... :dunno: I've been following that build closely and there are lots of complicated custom "making it work" stuff happening, and no more 7M coil pack either. Just reading through that thread again makes extending a harness sound like a vacation.

That's why you use IS300 coil packs. Also this is a great swap for people who have already spent money upgrading their 7m as you can reuse alot of what you already have.

 

[Jaguar]

^^^ very true. If I had a bunch of 7M stuff lying around instead of 1j and 2jz-gte stuff lying around, I'd consider doing this. Well, this and driftmotion's CT-26 manifold.

 

[OneJoeZee]

I'll give you that. If a person has a 2jz-gte they will probably at some point go single, however, they will NOT always go standalone. You could make great power with an SAFC and AFPR on a 2jz-gte.

Also, when you swap GTE you don't need a head gasket, to tap the oil pan, or to pay $500-$900 for a FFIM or $1600 for a standalone. Single turbos and manifolds cost about the same ge-t or gte. The 2jz-gte is much more expensive sure, but intercooler, drivetrain aside with the goal of 500 horsepower, the list looks like this:

2jz-gte
Motor: $1600 (TigerJapanese)
XS Power turbo: $350
Oil Line: $150
Down Pipe: $150
SAFC: $250 (Ebay)
AFPR: $200

Total: $2700

vs.

2jz-ge
Motor: $200
XS Power turbo: $350
Oil Line: $150
Down Pipe: $150
FFIM: $750
Standalone: $1600 + tuning
Head Gasket: $150

Total: $3350

Both of those quotes are inaccurate as neither of them would produce a running car.


We've already been through this in a previous post... An expensive FFIM is in no way a requisite to an NA-T swap. Plenty 2J NA-Ts retain the stock manifold. What Standalone are quoting at 1600 + tuning?

 

[hottscennessey]

just for sake of argument, I broke even with my GE swap until I payed $1084 for the standalone.. then I tuned myself

EDIT: I forgot to mention.. I have an excell sheet of how much I spent on my entire swap I'll have to post it as soon as my home internet is working. When I say I broke "even" that was after I parted all my 7M parts (from 400+ WHP 7M).