210 - 230 F water temps:(
- Thread starter AlexSmith
- Start date
Is there any downside to having a 180 degree thermostat? I bought one yesterday, the lady at the counter said it was the stock opening temp and I couldn't remember if she was right (obviously she wasn't). I just installed a Koyo aluminum radiator.
Get a water temperature gauge, unless you want to guess based on the stock temperature gauge.ViR2 said:
The Toyota OEM stat operates at 190 deg. The only downside for a 180 deg stat is the time it will take to get above the 176 deg the ECU is expecting for a warm motor...it will take longer. During the summer (or in a climate like in Phoenix), this is minor...I use a 180 deg stat because getting the engine warm is never a problem and I want the radiator to get a jump on the high OATs here. Colder climates can be an issue though.
At 176 deg (80 C), the TCCS terminates warm-up enrichment...the time you stay below this temp, you are getting increased injector volume (through duration) and can run rich.
At 176 deg (80 C), the TCCS terminates warm-up enrichment...the time you stay below this temp, you are getting increased injector volume (through duration) and can run rich.
Thanks for the info. I'll stick with what I got then at least until I need to change it. Summer's coming up and then in January I'll be moving to Tucson.jdub said:
I had a feeling a 160 degree T-stat is bad if you have really good thermal capacity...the engine might not ever turn off warm-up enrichment...
I ran that way for awhile out of ignorance, but have since changed back to the factory temp rating. I upgraded to a Fluidyne radiator and new fan clutch. My car ran really rich with a 160 stat and usually stayed at 150-155. Fuel economy went to crap, too. Anyway, even with some recent 90-ish degree days, the stock temp, stock fan clutch, and a nice aluminum radiator are plenty to keep it cool!
So I am still confused. I mean everything is still stock, and there are no known defects with the radiator, so what could be the problem with it? it's not leaking and the coolant was flushed, so shouldn't the temps be normal?
On another note, I went to my local autozone to purchase a radiator cap, for shits and giggles, and the one for the turbo model would not fit my radiator. I had to purchase the NA radiator cap to fit. Is there a huge difference in size between the two if I am running the NA radiator?
On another note, I went to my local autozone to purchase a radiator cap, for shits and giggles, and the one for the turbo model would not fit my radiator. I had to purchase the NA radiator cap to fit. Is there a huge difference in size between the two if I am running the NA radiator?
Just because you flushed the radiator doesn't mean that some of the cooling channels inside aren't clogged up
As far as I know, the rad caps are the same for the Turbo & NA.
As far as I know, the rad caps are the same for the Turbo & NA.
That's the downside of having better instrumentation. You'll see things in detail that were always there even if they're normal. As dub said you could still have a cooling system issue. Do you have a fan shroud? Stuff unrelated to the cooling system will cause the engine to run hot too. Timing, lean mixtures, ect.
If you want to keep the radiator you have, get it checked to make sure it's not clogged in some passages, they tend to do that over the years. Try to keep the Toyota red coolant in the car if you can, and of course the fan shroud and undertray need to be in place.