2008 Supra MKIII - Project 1BYDFALT
- Thread starter Supraholics
- Start date
The new title for this build is:
The NO ETA Supra Build - Project "The BLACK"
So no more teasing about when is it gonna be done
The NO ETA Supra Build - Project "The BLACK"
So no more teasing about when is it gonna be done
Hey man, I've been meaning to ask if you have any more pictures of the new upper grills, and if theyre installed. You kinda left us hanging. What kind of grill is that, and where did you get it?
The 89+ two side grills as pictured:
I planned on using either the style mesh from the ZO6/CTS-V, or the kind you have. I dont know where I could find the former, and the latter shouldnt be tough I'm assuming.
I planned on using either the style mesh from the ZO6/CTS-V, or the kind you have. I dont know where I could find the former, and the latter shouldnt be tough I'm assuming.
Orion ZyGarian;1871001 said:
Ok, now I know what you're referring to. I'm not going with those grills anymore. You can find the honeycomb grill at any gaming PC site. Many other places as well. I'm not sure about the Z06/CTS-V though. I would think you could find something similar on eBay.
HELP!
I'm working on relocating my battery. I've done lots of research on everything I could think of from voltage drop and weight of the cables per feet, what kind of terminals to use, materials, to what kind of battery to use based on my goals, etc...
I've decided (which can always change lol) to locate my battery in between the rear strut towers as shown below. The concern I have is that in the event of a crash the battery would come loose. I've used the f=ma formula to calculate force based of the weight of the battery and I'm just not too sure that the plate can take the force.
I'm trying to avoid drilling any holes into the chassis, but will if I have to and will prep them with anti-rust. Now do you guys think if I mount a battery hold down bracket as shown below by a red rectangle, that the 5 little bolts shown with the red arrows would hold it in place in case of an accident?
I'm working on relocating my battery. I've done lots of research on everything I could think of from voltage drop and weight of the cables per feet, what kind of terminals to use, materials, to what kind of battery to use based on my goals, etc...
I've decided (which can always change lol) to locate my battery in between the rear strut towers as shown below. The concern I have is that in the event of a crash the battery would come loose. I've used the f=ma formula to calculate force based of the weight of the battery and I'm just not too sure that the plate can take the force.
I'm trying to avoid drilling any holes into the chassis, but will if I have to and will prep them with anti-rust. Now do you guys think if I mount a battery hold down bracket as shown below by a red rectangle, that the 5 little bolts shown with the red arrows would hold it in place in case of an accident?
Miguel,
Given the mass of the battery in that high-mount location, I'm thinking with enough force from an impact... anything is possible, including separation of the lead cell contents from the casing itself? Additionally, the force could be in a range of directions... making an assured securing without "peeling up" the mount substrate more difficult. Then again, with THAT level of impact, perhaps the battery dislodging is not the primary risk for damage and/or injury anymore?
Actually, I'm thinking about some rear mounting options myself! I'd be very interested to learn the specs on what you finally settle on and revel in someone else doing ALL the work on getting it right FOR me!:biglaugh:
(Be sure to post your results up! )
-crisp
Given the mass of the battery in that high-mount location, I'm thinking with enough force from an impact... anything is possible, including separation of the lead cell contents from the casing itself? Additionally, the force could be in a range of directions... making an assured securing without "peeling up" the mount substrate more difficult. Then again, with THAT level of impact, perhaps the battery dislodging is not the primary risk for damage and/or injury anymore?
Actually, I'm thinking about some rear mounting options myself!
I'd be very interested to learn the specs on what you finally settle on and revel in someone else doing ALL the work on getting it right FOR me!:biglaugh:(Be sure to post your results up!
)-crisp
How much lateral force does it take to shear off one bolt of that size?
According to this page: http://www.boltscience.com/pages/faq.htm#3
I'd use that and then pretend I only really have 2 or 3 bolts. (one way to provide a safety margin.)
I'm sure it would help to replace those with ARP hardware.
According to this page: http://www.boltscience.com/pages/faq.htm#3
I'd use that and then pretend I only really have 2 or 3 bolts. (one way to provide a safety margin.)
I'm sure it would help to replace those with ARP hardware.
crisp;1874412 said:Miguel,
Given the mass of the battery in that high-mount location, I'm thinking with enough force from an impact... anything is possible, including separation of the lead cell contents from the casing itself? Additionally, the force could be in a range of directions... making an assured securing without "peeling up" the mount substrate more difficult. Then again, with THAT level of impact, perhaps the battery dislodging is not the primary risk for damage and/or injury anymore?
Actually, I'm thinking about some rear mounting options myself!
(Be sure to post your results up!
-crisp
I'm also thinking the back seats would provide a bit of defense and work as a force reducer in the event a frontal crash is experienced. so that's a plus.
As far as needing info - Anything you need, just ask my friend!!!
miekedmr;1874426 said:How much lateral force does it take to shear off one bolt of that size?
According to this page: http://www.boltscience.com/pages/faq.htm#3
I'd use that and then pretend I only really have 2 or 3 bolts. (one way to provide a safety margin.)
I'm sure it would help to replace those with ARP hardware.
I'm not concerned about lateral G forces as this car would never see enough Gs while driving to rip the 5 bolts off. Now, you do bring a good point if I hit something sideways, then yes the force may break it loose. I don't think however that ARP makes bolts with screw type tread. I mean the pitch on these 5 bolts looks like below:
You do bring up a great point though. I may be able to drill bigger holes and install ARP bolts, however, I still need to look at the thickness of the metal and make sure that it would handle the force as well. No point in the bolts taking the force if the metal would just shear right off right? lol.
Sorry, I didn't mean lateral on the car, I mean lateral on the bolt. As in head-on collision, or side impact, or rear impact, with the way they are oriented.
And you're right; I didn't figure they had screw threads. But you could drill the holes out like you said.
If the sturdiness of the black piece isn't good enough, that leaves you with:
1) reinforcement -- makes sense since you would already have to do some fab to secure the battery to it.
2) the full 9 yards: build a custom piece to mount there (aluminum?) -- Probably a little bit of a pain to get right. It looks like there's a couple of screw holes that interior pieces attach to, in addition to the 5 mount points.
And you're right; I didn't figure they had screw threads. But you could drill the holes out like you said.
If the sturdiness of the black piece isn't good enough, that leaves you with:
1) reinforcement -- makes sense since you would already have to do some fab to secure the battery to it.
2) the full 9 yards: build a custom piece to mount there (aluminum?) -- Probably a little bit of a pain to get right. It looks like there's a couple of screw holes that interior pieces attach to, in addition to the 5 mount points.
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Maybe something like this?
Replacing the cut out section with thicker steel.
Or you could just weld plate right on top of it.. But you'd still want to find some way to attach the plate directly to the floor up top there, I think.
Replacing the cut out section with thicker steel.
Or you could just weld plate right on top of it.. But you'd still want to find some way to attach the plate directly to the floor up top there, I think.
^^^^ - That's not a bad idea! I'll have to think about that a little more.
So far I've figured the sheet metal should be strong enough to withstand the force, especially with the wrinkle areas. I think (not 100% sure) that the 5 bolts/screws should be able to hold it down as well, however I was thinking about adding 2 more screws at the bottom corners and a bolt to the top as shown below.
So far I've figured the sheet metal should be strong enough to withstand the force, especially with the wrinkle areas. I think (not 100% sure) that the 5 bolts/screws should be able to hold it down as well, however I was thinking about adding 2 more screws at the bottom corners and a bolt to the top as shown below.
Yeah, I'm willing to believe that'd be plenty strong with your added fasteners. Especially if you're going with a lighter dry cell or something. Good luck, look forward to seeing more of this car-porn project from you!
miekedmr;1874811 said:Yeah, I'm willing to believe that'd be plenty strong with your added fasteners. Especially if you're going with a lighter dry cell or something. Good luck, look forward to seeing more of this car-porn project from you!
thanks.
I've decided on my latest suggestion above. I stated running the wire. Pretty thick wire. I've attached a picture below with a sharpie as reference. It is thicker than the sharpie!
I made out a plate to mount the breaker. I was going to paint it flat black, but I liked the brushed alu look.
Mounted it to the chassis and ran the wires. I took every precaution I could think of to prevent the wires from getting caught on anything or getting punctured. I even put end caps on the screws so they wouldn't puncture the wires.
Here is the final product. Sorry if the panel is thirty, but I had to install and remove it a ton of times for proper measurement.
It WANTS to come out!!!
Mounted it to the chassis and ran the wires. I took every precaution I could think of to prevent the wires from getting caught on anything or getting punctured. I even put end caps on the screws so they wouldn't puncture the wires.
Here is the final product. Sorry if the panel is thirty, but I had to install and remove it a ton of times for proper measurement.
It WANTS to come out!!!