1JZGTE Swap Clarification

Murch240z

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Dec 14, 2009
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Pasadena, Tx
First off, hello all, nice to be a part of the forum.

I am getting my ducks all in a row for a coming 1JZGTE swap into my 1973 Datsun 240z, and while I'm pretty clear on what I'll be doing there's a couple points my research has been leaving me iffy about. Let me say up front that I'm new to the JZ family and for the most part I've spent my 4 years of S30 ownership focused on the original L6 engine family. But now that I'm close to having all of my engine money in one place I came to the realization that I was going to spend as much as I would on a 1JZ swap and end up with 60%-75% of the power (depending on how much $$$ I sank into a near-race quality head).

The mechanics of getting the engine/tranny installed won't be a problem, it's more of my newness to all of the electronic control coming from a 40 year old dual carb'd engine design. My plan A won't be a problem either, that's simply getting the bone stock 1JZ swapped in and running.

It's plan B(etter) that raises some questions. I think I've got it all figured, but it's always best to give the veterans the chance to look at a plan and see what they have to say. Plan B is to go ahead and get/install the Driftmotion 57-trim turbo since it's all but certain that I'll switch to a single turbo at some point anyways (whether by choosing my time or having the stock twins fail). My main uncertainty is about the supporting mods for the 57-trim turbo, i.e. the border of "it'll work with stock" and "such-and-such mod would be helpful, if not absolutely necessary". From what my limited knowledge has told me, the 400hp range that I'm desiring seems to be right smack in the middle of stock being good enough but certain mods allowing you to get more out of the setup.

From what I can tell, the BCC is a no-brainer, I'm pretty sure an SAFC would be a good buy for increased tuneability (unless I stumble upon a tuner around Houston that knows the engine and likes Megasquirt - in which case standalone becomes cost-effective for me), and I think I should go up a size in injectors which would be the 440's off of the USDM 2JZGTE (unless my brain just farted, which is always likely). Also, I figured I'd try and get my hands on a set of USDM 2JZGTE cams to have reground for the 1JZ (more from a "just because" angle than expecting a major difference; I'd like to free up the top end a little more but I don't think I'll be pushing enough power to justify the expense of a 264).

I'm not looking to create a monster; a fast-boosting 400hp or so will be plenty for me and my 2400lb S30. So, am I missing anything? I really want to try and do this right the first time and not get caught trying to figure out what piggyback/mod I missed once I have the 1JZ swapped in, my budget hollowed out, and a car that is not running right. I know I'm likely to need some money for "oops" and "oh...right" parts after the swap, I just want to avoid having a pricey piggyback or some other major purchase be the "oops" that jumps up and bites me in the ass.

Thanks in advance for any advice you might give
 

JonoTurbo

Going for broke
Mar 30, 2005
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400hp on 440's is doable, but personally I think it's pushing it. The 440's are on the JDM 2jz. I would suggest going with the US 2jz 550's instead, along with a good fuel pump and regulator. Otherwise, with a freeflowing intake and exhaust I expect 400hp would be no problem on that setup. I was able to get 300hp out of the 1jz on stock twins without too much work.
 

Murch240z

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Dec 14, 2009
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Pasadena, Tx
Ah, okay, the 550s are the USDM and there's a resistor or some-such needed for the signal, yes? That's exactly the kind of detail I was looking for, save myself from the potential discovery that the 440s didn't flow quite enough fuel for my application.

The fuel pump and regulator are already a requirement for me since I'm switching to a fuel cell in the 240z anyways (seems simpler than retrofitting an ancient gas tank for EFI or using an ancient EFI tank off of a later S30).

I actually misstated a little bit in the first post, Plan A is the 1JZ with the BPU done as a part of installation.
 

JonoTurbo

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Mar 30, 2005
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Yes, you will need a resistor pack wired in with the injectors to run the mk4 550's. You can use the stock pack that comes with either mk3 or mk4 supras.

Also, I noticed you didn't say anything about a boost controller. You're going to need a manual or electronic one to run the kind of boost you need for 400hp.

You may also want to consider something like an emanage over the s-afc for tuning. I know the s-afc will get you to 400hp no problem, but if you want a little more control (such as being able to modify the timing) the emanage blue doesn't usually cost much more and has been proven to work well with jz engines.
 

Murch240z

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Dec 14, 2009
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Pasadena, Tx
Yeah, I was already figuring on a boost controller, both for tuning and so I can dial it back a bit for commuting days so I won't go through a set of tires every two months in stop and go traffic, heh.

I'll definitely check into the eManage as well, being able to access the timing will go further towards me convincing myself to pay for dyno tuning if I don't manage to stumble across a local tuner familiar enough with Megasquirt and the JZ's for me to feel comfortable going that route.
 

Murch240z

New Member
Dec 14, 2009
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Pasadena, Tx
Mk3runner;1471878 said:
id get it running first before you go wild on it.

Oh, for sure. Assuming I do manage to buy everything for the single turbo setup at the same time I order the engine/trans, at most I'll run it at very low boost to start off so I won't create a damaging lean situation and kind of inch up from there.

But, then again, if I manage to have the extra cash for the single setup I may very well have enough money to have a professional dyno tune it from the get go so I can keep my inexperience as far from the fine details as possible, hehe. If I do end up tuning it myself it'll be a long, careful process. Hell, just getting used to driving with double (or more) the power I am accustomed to will be a long, careful process.
 

honestabe

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Jan 15, 2006
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Why the 57 trim turbo? I think you'd be better off with the 60-1 twin scroll turbo with no larger than a .70 A/R (what I currently have, and did 400 RWHP on when running out of fuel). My turbo at 400 spooled really quickly and I think would satisfy your needs, along with giving you extra room if you want 500 RWHP (which this turbo is capable of). The 60-1 turbo kit is the same cost as the 57 trim turbo kit (both $1550).
 

Murch240z

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Dec 14, 2009
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Pasadena, Tx
I'm not totally set on the 57 trim, I picked it mainly because it's the fastest spooling option they have. Also, with my light S30 400hp gets me in the neighborhood of a 6lbs per HP weight/power ratio so I don't expect to be going for more than that in my daily driver.

Also, they list the 57 as having the optional "O Trim" exhaust wheel for faster spool, though admittedly I'm not certain as to just how much of a difference that actually makes. If I do manage to have the cash for the single turbo setup at the time of install I'll definitely have to hit the books and increase my knowledge of turbos before making a buy.

You do raise an excellent point, though, I'll have to try and do some research to compare how quickly the 57 and 60 trims spool. Do you happen to remember the ballpark RPM where your 60 trim tended to reach full boost? Er...and I guess how many PSI of boost you were running so I won't end up comparing apples to oranges when I go poking around looking for other people's results.

I'll be the first to admit that I have a LOT to learn about the 1JZ (not to mention turbos in general) over the next month or two before I start shelling out money. Really it just makes me wish I had not been so stubbornly attached to the idea of an race-prepped, naturally aspirated, numbers matching L6 in my 240z for the past few years. Spent too much time studying about modifying the original dual carbs, which head to choose, what do have done to it, cam designs, etc. Grew my automotive knowledge in a mainly linear fashion and now that I've lost my taste for the previous plan I find myself a novice all over again.
 

honestabe

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Jan 15, 2006
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wUuHjNrmkGQ

The dyno graph is at 36 seconds. Full spool of 15 PSI was around 5200 RPM, although if you look at my AFR's they were 10:1 since my stock ECU was freaking out at that boost level for some reason. Expect full spool to be around 4000-4500 RPM's when running properly. I'll have my Supra back on the dyno the first week of March, so expect a video then along with about 500 RWHP.
 

NewGen

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Apr 6, 2007
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JonoTurbo;1471294 said:
Yes, you will need a resistor pack wired in with the injectors to run the mk4 550's. You can use the stock pack that comes with either mk3 or mk4 supras.

See i've herd there a difference between running a MKIV resistor and running the stock MK III. The MK III resistor has 3 leads and I believe the MK IV has 6 correct? I was told it has something to do with the 7m being a sequential igntion setup and the 2jz being COP's. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.
 

foreverpsycotic

Back in the game!
Jul 16, 2006
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NewGen;1472700 said:
See i've herd there a difference between running a MKIV resistor and running the stock MK III. The MK III resistor has 3 leads and I believe the MK IV has 6 correct? I was told it has something to do with the 7m being a sequential igntion setup and the 2jz being COP's. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.

The 7m and 1jz are batch injection (1jz is sequential ignition), the JDM 2jz is sequential and I don't know about the USDM 2jz, but I assume it is sequential.