1jzgte Sputtering Backfireing, bogging down. Now it wont Start!

TripleC

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Hey fellas i have a 1jzgte motor with a PLX300 wideband stock twins, injectors and intake, 3 inch down, to 3 out. I have had issues with the car happen over the last 4 weeks.
I have not pulled codes. My buddy and I are going to do that tonight.
i ran out of gas 3 weeks ago. Filled it up with gas and The car started to sputter and loose power a few times the next day then went away . 2 fridays ago i almost ran out of gas again but found a station next to my office that only had 85 (dang) well it ran fine. then i let it sit over the weekend and didnt drive it. Well Monday morning last week i fill it up with 10 Gallons of 91 and less then a 100 yard driving after that my car begins to sputter and bog down.
well i make it to work with a minimal amount of this sputtering but it was similar to before when it sputered a week earlier. then i worked all day and drove it in the afternoon and it was bogging really bad and loosing power the AFC was reading 15 then 18 then 12 . then i could put it under load and it would leavel out then at about 4300 it would read at around 12 then jump to 15 when it would shutter bog or loose power.
satuday i swaped in a welded diff and tryed to run it in the gerage that night It backfired Sputtered and wouldnt stay on it would actually run at arounds 900 rpm then drop to about 75 prm then bounce back up. i think it would have stalled if i wasnt pushing down the pedal. I could ppush down and it would idle around 1500 then drop about to around 1300 and back fire about every 5 times it would reduce in RPM if i gassed it it wouldback fire.
so sunday morning i get it started and it ideling at 900 so i out some fuel injector cleaner in it and drive it to the Gas Station with minimal sputtering fill it up to the top with 91 so the Fuel injector cleanor has enough fuel to work properly and i dive it back and forth a few times on the road in front of my house it Sputters under load back fires , then hits perfect then i let off and then push back down and i loose power the AFC goes crazy and reads 12 then 15 then 12 then 15 so i nurse it home and in the gerage.
i put it on jack stands with the front lifted only and ran it for about 25 seconds while trying to hold my hand over the top intercooler pipe coming off the turbos to see if i had a boost leak, it didnt sound like i had one and there was plenty of suction but it still didnt stall out.
so i shut it off - hook back up the top pipe.
and try to start it again...................... nothing i tried 12 times and i have nothing it dosnt event read a single rpm on my tach.
Please help if you can. I have a drift event in exactly 13 days and i have ot get it ready. This is also my daily driver
 

supra90turbo

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Swap in a 1JZ... oh wait...

I'll do the best I can
TripleC;1559621 said:
Hey fellas i have a 1jzgte motor with a PLX300 wideband stock twins, injectors and intake, 3 inch down, to 3 out. I have had issues with the car happen over the last 4 weeks.
What size injectors?

TripleC;1559621 said:
I have not pulled codes. My buddy and I are going to do that tonight.
Why not do it now?

TripleC;1559621 said:
i ran out of gas 3 weeks ago. Filled it up with gas and The car started to sputter and loose power a few times the next day then went away . 2 fridays ago i almost ran out of gas again but found a station next to my office that only had 85 (dang) well it ran fine. then i let it sit over the weekend and didnt drive it. Well Monday morning last week i fill it up with 10 Gallons of 91 and less then a 100 yard driving after that my car begins to sputter and bog down.
So it started when you ran out of gas? Have you checked the fuel pressure?

TripleC;1559621 said:
well i make it to work with a minimal amount of this sputtering but it was similar to before when it sputered a week earlier. then i worked all day and drove it in the afternoon and it was bogging really bad and loosing power the AFC was reading 15 then 18 then 12 . then i could put it under load and it would leavel out then at about 4300 it would read at around 12 then jump to 15 when it would shutter bog or loose power.
What are the values you're speaking of? 15, 18, 12?

TripleC;1559621 said:
satuday i swaped in a welded diff and tryed to run it in the gerage that night It backfired Sputtered and wouldnt stay on it would actually run at arounds 900 rpm then drop to about 75 prm then bounce back up. i think it would have stalled if i wasnt pushing down the pedal. I could ppush down and it would idle around 1500 then drop about to around 1300 and back fire about every 5 times it would reduce in RPM if i gassed it it wouldback fire.
so sunday morning i get it started and it ideling at 900 so i out some fuel injector cleaner in it and drive it to the Gas Station with minimal sputtering fill it up to the top with 91 so the Fuel injector cleanor has enough fuel to work properly and i dive it back and forth a few times on the road in front of my house it Sputters under load back fires , then hits perfect then i let off and then push back down and i loose power the AFC goes crazy and reads 12 then 15 then 12 then 15 so i nurse it home and in the gerage.
i put it on jack stands with the front lifted only and ran it for about 25 seconds while trying to hold my hand over the top intercooler pipe coming off the turbos to see if i had a boost leak, it didnt sound like i had one and there was plenty of suction but it still didnt stall out.
so i shut it off - hook back up the top pipe.
and try to start it again...................... nothing i tried 12 times and i have nothing it dosnt event read a single rpm on my tach.
Please help if you can. I have a drift event in exactly 13 days and i have ot get it ready. This is also my daily driver

1: there's the 15,12,15 again?
2: there is NO WAY POSSIBLE that you can hear a boost leak at all, never mind with the car running. A boost leak wouldn't make a difference in the way the car ran since you're map based.
3: I would test the cam/crank sensors.
 

TripleC

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supra90turbo;1559639 said:
Swap in a 1JZ... oh wait...

I'll do the best I can

What size injectors?

Why not do it now?

So it started when you ran out of gas? Have you checked the fuel pressure?

What are the values you're speaking of? 15, 18, 12?

1: there's the 15,12,15 again?
2: there is NO WAY POSSIBLE that you can hear a boost leak at all, never mind with the car running.
A boost leak wouldn't make a difference in the way the car ran since you're map based.
3: I would test the cam/crank sensors.



What size injectors?
370CC


Why not do it now?
I dont work at a shop!


So it started when you ran out of gas? Have you checked the fuel pressure?
Yes (atleast that is when it became frequant enough to notice ), I dont have a fuel pressure gauge

What are the values you're speaking of? 15, 18, 12?
So when i am driving my PLX300 tells me what the air to fuel is or atleast a read out of what is going on.
When my car runs good it stays around 14.00 to 15.00 on the readout screen when i am under boost It typically has a smooth read out from 14 to around 10.25 to 10.50 when at full boost or at wide open throttle.
When my car ran fine i let off the gas when decelerating to stop at a light my PLX300 read above 14 and increase to around 18 then read lean. than when stoped at the light it would steady itself quickly to around 15 to 14.
Like a stated the read out now is dead
but when i was trying to figure out the issue the read out was all over the place and the engine would backfire or sputter whenever that gauge jumped or spiked.
My Oil pressure is readign the same as always my boost gauge was all over the place cause of the detonation or fuel issue and inconsistansty with power getting out of the motor.


1: there's the 15,12,15 again?
2: there is NO WAY POSSIBLE that you can hear a boost leak at all, never mind with the car running.
"bull s*^^--- " the car will stay running if i plug the top intercooler pipecoming off the turbos and there is a boost leak between the turbos and intake. the air will get past where the hole is.. CAN YOU HEAR THAT. IF the car is running!!!!!! come on buddy.... The car stays running cause it gets air.. A boost leak wouldn't make a difference in the way the car ran since you're map based.
Another BS answer. It would loose timing higher in the RPM causeing it to loose power but keep spooling the turbos. This happened to me before. Boost leaks cause issues,
If i was at idel or just reving it up i can see that it wouldnt make a differance...


PS im not trying to be a dick, but remember that not everyone is a Dumb ass

3: I would test the cam/crank sensors.
WIll do, when i pull the codes tonight
 

suprahero

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TripleC;1559646 said:
Why not do it now?
I dont work at a shop!



PS im not trying to be a dick, but remember that not everyone is a Dumb ass

Nice attitude, good luck getting any more help. You also don't have to work at a shop to check the codes........even a dumb ass would know that.
 

TripleC

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suprahero;1559656 said:
Nice attitude, good luck getting any more help. You also don't have to work at a shop to check the codes........even a dumb ass would know that.
my bad When he asked why not pull codes now.
i replyed
i dont work at a shop (this means my car is at home in the gerage not with me so it is down right imposible for me to check them now) sorry for the poor explination but i think you mistook what i was trying to say. i am just frustrated with the car.
i wasnt sure if it was the same as the 7m to pull codes. I will check the te1 and e1 and see what i get for codes.
 

TripleC

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What about my Cam position sensor will that cause these issues as well. I know bad caps in the ECU a fuel pump / filter issue can cause this as well.
Supradupra.com;1559690 said:
The codes will give you the best insight when you grab them.

I know from experience a duff MAP sensor will cause the running issues you have.
 

supra90turbo

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::facepalm::

I guess since you said this car was your daily driver, I wrongfully assumed that the car was with you and that anyone with any mechanical intellect whatsoever could pull codes on an OBD1 car. Silly me.

Good luck.
 

TripleC

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supra90turbo;1559727 said:
::facepalm::

I guess since you said this car was your daily driver, I wrongfully assumed that the car was with you and that anyone with any mechanical intellect whatsoever could pull codes on an OBD1 car. Silly me.

Good luck.
sorry i didnt mean to piss anybody off just wanted a few pointers. I guess since i put it in the title that it wont start i figured people would read this and know i didnt have the car with me. if it dosnt start it dosnt take me to work.
I havnt had to pull any codes on it any time lately and didnt have the processed memorized. "i know how hard is it to remember te1 and e1 and count" well on a saturday May 1st it was. sunday i gave up the will after looking at the coilpacks.

S.A. supra;1559753 said:
Bad attitude. Your I know everything but still need help attitude is not gonna get you far. Check your coil packs.
I dont know everything that is whay i am asking questions. I dont assume to know everything either that is why i am on this forum. Right ... to get answers from those who know them.
I checked the coil packs for cracking and or any Differance looking into them but i saw nothing. I havnt pulled the plugs...YET.
I wanted to check the codes before i took them out.