1jzgte 89 supra swap woes (Leaking FPR and no dash illumination)

[shipkiller]

Hello

I recently swapped a 1jz-gte from a jza70 into my 89 turbo.
I have two or three remaining issues.

First is that my fpr is leaking where it bolt into the steel block (with the fuel feed hose). I tried changing the crush-washers but it still leaked a bit. How can I fix it permanently

second is: When I pop my headlight and turn them on, I get no dash illumination... I don't know what to do with that one but I'd like to see my dash in the dark, I did the wiring by myself but I'd like to know which wires take care of that, on what plug.

Third is: I changed transmission because I destroyed my previous R154 but I have difficulties putting it in first gear... I hope this one is good (it's coming from a soarer). I'll try to adjust my clutch pedal but it seem to be alright

also I have weird clonk-clunk from the underside of the car, I'm betting it's the diff because it isn't when I'm going over bump, it isn't always when accelerating or cruising. I checked the tranny mount and engine mounts, it's all good

 

[f00g00]

First: Make sure the crush washers are the right size without slop and torque them with a torque wrench to tsrm specs and make sure the banjo bolt isn't scarred up where the crush washers seat. Might want to put a new one on just in case.

Second: dash lights are chassis, not swap wires. Make sure there aren't any blown fuzes and the rheostat isn't turned down. If the tail lights work then you can rule out the tail fuze and need further trouble shooting.

Third: Change the clutch fluid and bleed it good. Since you changed it there is probably air in the line.

Fourth: Sounds like the center bearing on the drive shaft is broken or not bolted down.

 

[shipkiller]

First: Make sure the crush washers are the right size without slop and torque them with a torque wrench to tsrm specs and make sure the banjo bolt isn't scarred up where the crush washers seat. Might want to put a new one on just in case.

Second: dash lights are chassis, not swap wires. Make sure there aren't any blown fuzes and the rheostat isn't turned down. If the tail lights work then you can rule out the tail fuze and need further trouble shooting.

Third: Change the clutch fluid and bleed it good. Since you changed it there is probably air in the line.

Fourth: Sounds like the center bearing on the drive shaft is broken or not bolted down.

I already tried the new crush washers but I'll do some further testing about it. That damn thing is only accessible from the underside of the car it isn't fun.

For the lights, I forgot to check the rheostats (that's the dimmer switch right?), would be great if it was just turned all the way down. Thanks

third: so everytime I remove the slave, air get in the line? (when dropping the trans or whatever). I'll try to bleed it (although I've never done that before).

fourth: I though of something through the night, maybe it is my intake pipe knocking on the strut tower... I'll check it all after work

Those are good suggestion f00g00, thank you. I'll look into it and come back to y'all

 

[shipkiller]

bled the clutch (slave) a few time.
Fixed the leaking FPR

but when I started the engine, it revved right up to 2500rpm before dropping to 1.8~ ish and then climbing back up again to 2.5 and it keep doing that...
Why is that, I checked all the stopscrews at the throttle bodies and I'm 100% positive it is closed shut, so the ISCV is wide open it seem, why is that?! is it a ECU probleme or what. (because now I can't pull the code, when I jump E1 and Te1 the CEL just stays on)

edit: yeah I get good vacuum at my gauge so it's probably not a vacuum leak (since it didn't to that problem 2 days ago)

 

[shipkiller]

I tested another ecu I had (that ecu refuse to start regardless of what 1jz it is plugged in but at least it record the code 14 everytime) and I could pull the code, so my wiring isn't fubar...

Looks like I need a new ecu to test.

 

[IBoughtASupra]

Hello

I recently swapped a 1jz-gte from a jza70 into my 89 turbo.
I have two or three remaining issues.

First is that my fpr is leaking where it bolt into the steel block (with the fuel feed hose). I tried changing the crush-washers but it still leaked a bit. How can I fix it permanently

second is: When I pop my headlight and turn them on, I get no dash illumination... I don't know what to do with that one but I'd like to see my dash in the dark, I did the wiring by myself but I'd like to know which wires take care of that, on what plug.

Third is: I changed transmission because I destroyed my previous R154 but I have difficulties putting it in first gear... I hope this one is good (it's coming from a soarer). I'll try to adjust my clutch pedal but it seem to be alright

also I have weird clonk-clunk from the underside of the car, I'm betting it's the diff because it isn't when I'm going over bump, it isn't always when accelerating or cruising. I checked the tranny mount and engine mounts, it's all good

1) That is the dampener. It should be tight. Are you sure the hoses are not leaking? Unbolt it and take a look at it. Maybe you aren't getting it tighten enough.

2) You have the rheostat on the left side of the dash. Make sure it is not turned down, that is what controls the brightness of the dash. The engine harness has nothing to do with it.

3) What oil are you using? MT-90 is what you should use. Is the free play correct, check it by using the 7M TSRM. The pedal should have about an inch or so of play before it starts to engage the slave.

4) The most common I have seen that causes this besides the center bearing or differntial is a rattling exhaust because of worn hangers.

EDIT: Whoops. Just saw it was answered.

The ECU issue is common. Try unplugging the ISCV and starting it and see what happens. How do you have the ISCV plumbed, is it stock or just open with a breather on it?

Checked the caps on the one that started?

We can't really trust the code from the other ECU as it won't even start the car so maybe it is messed up.

 

[shipkiller]

The other ecu just proove that my diagnostic box wiring is fine.
Caps are all fine, board are not toasted, I did some research and it seem that symptoms is typical of a dead 1jz ecu (not due to caps). I'll test a blitz 1jz ecu tonight and I'll see whats up.

Iscv routed stock, when unplugged the stepper motor doesn't get feedback so it just stays fully open.

I'll give update tonight

 

[shipkiller]

Plugged in another ecu:

vroooooom, smooth idle and it drives perfectly.

Looks like I'm finally done with the swap now I'll drive the shit out of it

 

[IBoughtASupra]

Save up for a standalone though. Trust me. The stock ECU on these JZ love to fight with every mod.

 

[BoostMonger]

Save up for a standalone though. Trust me. The stock ECU on these JZ love to fight with every mod.

I pimp slapped my ecu and it hasn't fussed with 550's since march lolz

Sent From My HTC One S using Tapatalk 2

 

[shipkiller]

Speaking of ecu

The blitz one I got seem to randomly shut off after 20min or so, I can't start the car unless I pull the efi fuse and start it again... It stop injecting fuel but I get spark, It is the same symptoms as before the repair (on that ecu) but the guy before the repair couldn't get his started after it let go.

so yeah I'm on to find a third ecu now.

but since we are really speaking of ecu:
How the f*** do you guys bolt it under the dash, the metal brackets make no sense at all
anybody got a picture or something?
thanks

 

[IBoughtASupra]

Use the 7M ones and then mix and match it. I used the 7M ones and then bent them to suit. If you don't have them, the JZ ones work, just a little more massaging.

I hate ECU's that are in the glovebox, unless the glovebox isn't used and they are mounted and not moving around.

 

[shipkiller]

I'll try again, but if one of you have a picture of how it's mounted, that would help me out a lot.
thanks