1JZ VVTi + R154 electrics/dash questions!

[special_ops9]

Thank you for reading,
I have an '87 non-turbo auto that I swapped a late model 1JZ into. Its running on a Haltech platinum sport 1000 on a custom harness which has caused issues of its own, but I believe these are now sorted out. My questions are regarding some of the ancillary components of the build and hopefully someone could help me shed some light on one or more of these issues.

• I have read that the 7M-GE tach requires a pulsed signal with 40V (negative?) peaks in order for it to function. My problem is I no longer have a place to connect to for this signal as I am now running COPs. Can I combine the output from the ignitor's three channels (with diodes to prevent interference) to make a usable signal to feed to the tachometer?
• My speedometer is cable driven however my R154 has only an electronic speed output. In my research it seems most r154s have a place to connect a manual speedometer cable however mine does not (perhaps because it is out of a jzx110 rather than an older car?). I have tried to adapt the speedometer wheel and sending unit to work with the r154 however it doesn't seem feasible (mounting is different, gear itself is smaller and different tooth pattern, angle in relation to the drive shaft is different). It seems the easiest way to fix this would to modify a modern electronic speedometer to fit into my cluster and utilize the electronic sending unit, can anyone give me any tips on this or other ideas?
• The coolant temp sending unit as far as I can tell is the same from 7M to the 1J. But since I am not using the stock ecu (or for that matter any stock wiring outside of headlights and turn signals) do I need to do anything special or just wire the sending unit directly to the combination meter?
• I have the 7M oil pressure sensor installed, and as with the coolant temp is there anything I need to put between the sending unit and the dash?

Thank you very much for any advice you my be able to offer,
Chris

 

[ifyouaint1sturlast]

Thank you for reading,
I have an '87 non-turbo auto that I swapped a late model 1JZ into. Its running on a Haltech platinum sport 1000 on a custom harness which is working well. My questions are regarding some of the ancillary components of the build and hopefully someone could help me shed some light on one or more of these issues.

• I have read that the 7M-GE tach requires a pulsed signal with 40V (negative?) peaks in order for it to function. My problem is I no longer have a place to connect to for this signal as I am now running COPs. Can I combine the output from the ignitor's three channels (with diodes to prevent interference) to make a usable signal to feed to the tachometer?
• My speedometer is cable driven however my R154 has only an electronic speed output. In my research it seems most r154s have a place to connect a manual speedometer cable however mine does not (perhaps because it is out of a jzx110 rather than an older car?). I have tried to adapt the speedometer wheel and sending unit to work with the r154 however it doesn't seem feasible (mounting is different, gear itself is smaller and different tooth pattern, angle in relation to the drive shaft is different). It seems the easiest way to fix this would to modify a modern electronic speedometer to fit into my cluster and utilize the electronic sending unit, can anyone give me any tips on this or other ideas?
• The coolant temp sending unit as far as I can tell is the same from 7M to the 1J. But since I am not using the stock ecu (or for that matter any stock wiring outside of headlights and turn signals) do I need to do anything special or just wire the sending unit directly to the combination meter?
• I have the 7M oil pressure sensor installed, and as with the coolant temp is there anything I need to put between the sending unit and the dash?

Thank you very much for any advice you my be able to offer,
Chris

Hey Chris,
1) I'm not so sure about the 7M-GE tach. Couldn't you do the conversion that people usually have to do to make it a GTE tach, then hook it up to your Igniter's tach output signal?

2) The speedometer can be remedied by finding a 90's Toyota Camry speedometer in the junkyard, and fitting it to your dash. I've done this with the MKIV Supra speedometer but I just got my hands on the Camry one and I'm in the process of it. The three signals on your speed sensor are power, ground, and signal.

3) I'd say the best way to tell about the temp sender is to run a wire to test and see if it works. There's not too much documentation on the 1JZ VVT-i that I could find.

4) The 7M oil pressure sender can be hooked directly to the wire coming from the body plug.


Hope that helps!

 

[special_ops9]

Thanks! Ill try and find a GTE tach, I've been watching the junkyard but it seems only non-turbos turn up here I'll have to look else where. I've got a 04 Celica Speedo I pulled for this purpose, Ill look at a Camry unit and see which will work better. Would calibration then just be a matter of the correct resistor? Really appreciate the quick response and good answers!

 

[ifyouaint1sturlast]

I don't think you need the GTE tach. I've come across some things about adding in a resistor or something to the GE tach to make it work for the turbo swaps. Maybe just google it and see what happens.

As far as the speedo, I really have no idea how to calibrate, I have yet to retrofit my Camry one, so we're in the same boat!

Good luck man

 

[ifyouaint1sturlast]

http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?125640-NA-Tach-Conversion-to-7M-GTE

 

[soapra]

If you use a gte tach it will work. Also coolant temp sensor is the same. Just wire up the wire from the temp sensor to the gauge thru the body connector.

I've worked with haltechs before and they don't like waste spark. Main reason why the haltech folks tell you to use the LS coils. I've had this experience with a P2000. If you start having ignition related problems ditch the haltech and use an AEM. or use TT coils and a TR igniter.

 

[special_ops9]

Yeah I've run into a lot of problems I believe are ignition related. When you say the Haltechs don't like waste spark do you think this is a result of interfacing with the stock igniter or something else? I ask because I have 6 1NZ coils I was planning on using to set up a direct fire system but ditched the idea when I realized I don't have enough outputs to run them. Would there be a benefit in using the COPs wired up to work in waste spark, or am I best off using something different entirely?

Could this be related to experiencing detonation while under quite rich A/Fs? I started experiencing what felt like ignition cut above 10 psi with my wide-band reading <11 at all times under boost (newbie tuner and I thought this would be safer). I tried numerous things to correct the issue, couldn't find any leaks or mechanical issues, and modified about every setting trying to improve but nothing worked. Well after a while I tore the motor down and found this, http://imgur.com/a/GTUic#28 along with similar damage to the head on the intake side. Well I got everything machined and fully rebuilt the motor, I completely redid the wiring harness, hoping there was a bum signal ground or short at the heart of all this, while I found several issues they all seemed to be pre-existing (I bought the engine/ecu pre-wired). Although I did find a loose connection on the home signal (cam position sensor) which I have really been hoping was the issue. But the more I think about it the less any of it makes sense; I'm running semi-sequential injection and wasted spark - therefore cam position isn't even required for proper engine operation? My ignition timing was <40 through all my fiddling and my a/f stayed around 10-11. Unless my Innovate wb was lying to me I don't see how I was getting detonation (engine temps <190, intake temps 70-80 degrees). Well I'm 1500 into rebuilding this motor and frankly scared to plug it back in and fire it up just to cause the same damage again when I have no idea what caused it the first time.

The only two things I can think of that might have happened would be my wideband reading completely incorrectly, or somehow getting premature ignition a full 360 degrees advanced making my engine into a 2-stroke. Though I believe this would have burned up the exhaust side not the intake if it were even possible. Well I am completely lost here so really any suggestions anyone might have would be greatly appreciated. :icon_razz

Chris

 

[special_ops9]

Well I think I should post the background to all of this^^

Well I bought the motor with ecu pre-wired for MK3 chassis supposedly in full working order. First start up went well, ignition lock @ 10 degrees yielded 10 degrees on the timing light, a/f in range, so on. Came time for the first test drive, I drove around at low RPM for a few mins, went through gears @5% throttle et cetera. Then I decided to put the pedal down, started in second gear at 30mph hit boost and thought, "damn this is one bad Larry." Well the top of second came, shifted, then at about 5k I hit a brick wall: sudden ignition cut and bogging. limped back to the shop and found a blown out coupler going to the intake manifold. But once I fixed this all was not right, I was never able to get back into the power-band, to do anything but bog I had to use very light throttle and even then once I got into boost it would bog. Cue paragraph above.