1JZ swap in progress
- Thread starter GN_Convert
- Start date
I just got the 1JZ in today. the driveshaft yoke does not fit in the new trans, so I have to get the yoke changed out. The vacuum canister had to go, I will probably relocate that if I need to keep it. Sorry about the crappy picture, my camera battery died and I used my phone.
I had to go back to work, so progress will be slower. I got the AC compressor and lines connected. I read somewhere that you have to take the head off the 7M AC compressor and grind the heck out of the power steering bracket to get the lines to fit. I still don't have my ECU, I got my engine from JDM Planet and they did not send the ignitor or the ECU, and the TPS spacer was broken. Hopefully in a few days they will send them to me.
Only had a few hours after work, but I got the power steering high pressure line, clutch line, 3" downpipe and the fan & shroud in. Driftmotion has proven to be a great source for parts.
Nice. Good to see another 1j being put to good use. I'm in the middle of my conversion, as well. Went from a 7m-ge to the 1jz, like you. I'm still having trouble figuring out where & how I'm going to mount my p/s reservoir, & ignitor. GL with the build.
actually, I just had the R154 yoke installed on my driveshaft, it fits perfectly. My stock exhaust is about an inch short of the driftmotion downpipe, so I will have to get new exhaust made.
I got the 2JZ throttle cable in, that just barely made it, and the round opening on the throttle pulley-type thing was too small, so I had to drill it out a little bit. Plus, the stock gas pedal was a little too thick for the 2JZ throttle cable, so I had to take a half millimeter off, but now it locks in place.
Also, I had to remove the AC auxiliary fans and take a dremel to the fan shroud so the intercooler piping will fit between the AC compressor and radiator. I will take pictures later of that.
---------- Post added at 08:09 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:05 PM ----------
it looks like I will be able to keep the PS reservoir in the factory location, just run new hose between the pump and reservoir. I should be tackling that this weekend. Also, the unused PS lines on the crossmember below the engine are going to go too.
I got the 2JZ throttle cable in, that just barely made it, and the round opening on the throttle pulley-type thing was too small, so I had to drill it out a little bit. Plus, the stock gas pedal was a little too thick for the 2JZ throttle cable, so I had to take a half millimeter off, but now it locks in place.
Also, I had to remove the AC auxiliary fans and take a dremel to the fan shroud so the intercooler piping will fit between the AC compressor and radiator. I will take pictures later of that.
---------- Post added at 08:09 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:05 PM ----------
it looks like I will be able to keep the PS reservoir in the factory location, just run new hose between the pump and reservoir. I should be tackling that this weekend. Also, the unused PS lines on the crossmember below the engine are going to go too.
Well, I got my intercooler mounted, and all the pipes installed for it. If you ever do that yourself, make sure you have an electric mitre saw. If you had to do that with a hacksaw, you would be really hating life.
Also, while I was connecting my heater hoses, I found that the hose I got was 5/8, but the fittings were slightly larger (metric, I guess), so they were a real pain in the ass to get on. I used a little KY jelly lube and that made the hoses go on easily. It was water based, so it should not cause any problems.
here are some shots of the intercooler piping.
Also, while I was connecting my heater hoses, I found that the hose I got was 5/8, but the fittings were slightly larger (metric, I guess), so they were a real pain in the ass to get on. I used a little KY jelly lube and that made the hoses go on easily. It was water based, so it should not cause any problems.
here are some shots of the intercooler piping.
It Runs! I got it started this morning, I am getting fault codes 21 (O2 sensor), 22 (water temp sensor), and 31 (air flow meter) Anyone have any idea about 31? I thought the 1JZ used a MAP, not a MAF sensor.
I don't remember where I found these, but these diagrams were 100% correct for wiring the 1JZ into the MA70. I am picking up a new O2 sensor this morning, the one that came with the engine only had 2 wires, but the harness is for a 3 wire.
I don't remember where I found these, but these diagrams were 100% correct for wiring the 1JZ into the MA70. I am picking up a new O2 sensor this morning, the one that came with the engine only had 2 wires, but the harness is for a 3 wire.
Just a picture of the lengthened harness. All wires were extended almost 3 feet, it made it a lot easier to get everything through the firewall that way.
I got a new O2 sensor, it had 4 wires. A little research online shows that the fourth wire is the sensor ground. It is grounded through the casing as well, so that fourth wire is not necessary. Just the two heater wires, which are non-polarized, and the sensor wire. Now all I have left is the MAP sensor which comes in on Tuesday. After that, I hope to be able to drive it finally.
Well, I have all the sensors finally, and the ECU is showing no error codes, but it won't start. It is getting fuel, I have not pulled a plug yet to see if they are just fouled up or what. That will have to wait until I get more time later in the week. I just want to drive it.
OK, I replaced all the plugs, they were had a little carbon on them. It still won't start. I pulled the coil packs for 5 & 6 to see if they were getting spark when I turn it over, and they were. It just turns over, not even a sputter, just making my garage smell like fuel. Plus, there are no error codes when I check. I don't get it. It idled last week with no O2, no MAP sensor, but now that I have them in, nothing. I even tried disconnecting them to see if I could get it to start up again. No luck there either.
When I turn on the ignition, even without the engine turning over, I can sometimes hear the injectors clicking away. I checked the engine, battery, and body grounds, all look and check good with my meter.
When I pulled # 3 spark plug, there was about 1/8 inch of fuel on top of the cylinder, I was able to get most of it out with a rag wrapped around a screwdriver.
Anyone have any ideas?
When I turn on the ignition, even without the engine turning over, I can sometimes hear the injectors clicking away. I checked the engine, battery, and body grounds, all look and check good with my meter.
When I pulled # 3 spark plug, there was about 1/8 inch of fuel on top of the cylinder, I was able to get most of it out with a rag wrapped around a screwdriver.
Anyone have any ideas?
driver005s;1711703 said:
It takes a bit of work, but well worth it. I just got mine on the road, it hauls ass now. There is a lot of good information regarding the swap and troubleshooting. FYI, I spent about $3800 total counting the engine & transmission. If you budget 4K, and have the ability to do it yourself, you should be fine.