1jz code 14 bad ecu?

Travis89turbo

Travis89turbo

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Sep 21, 2010
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Hey guys I was driving my car 89 targa with 1j swap with driftmotion 60-1 and it just shut off. It would start for half a second then shut off with code 14 I replaced the caps in the ecu. 3 were leaking. I didn't replace the 63v one tho cause I can't get it local but it was not leaking. Now when I start the car every once and a while it will stay idling really low with no check light. But if I touch the throttle it shuts off. So how can I find out if its an igniter or ecu?
 
JonoTurbo

JonoTurbo

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The igniter rarely goes bad, it probably is still the ECU. You should replace all the caps in it, even if you can't see the caps leaking they can still be bad. Also check the board around them carefully for damage. I had replaced all the caps in one ECU but it still didn't work because the acid from the cap had ruined a nearby connection.
 
Travis89turbo

Travis89turbo

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Ya that's what I'm leaning towards also. Do you kno anyone that has an ecu? I plan on goin with end stinger but just don't have the money right now
 
1

1jChris

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Oct 31, 2010
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The guys at driftmotion.com offer a cap replacement service, its like 60 bucks. check em out.
 
S

Satan

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Mar 31, 2005
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I had the same issue and it turned out that the thick black/orange wire (B1 connector) was not making a good connection, within the plastic connectors (I had already swapped ignitors, ECUs, etc, etc). I unpinned the wires from the plastic connector/housing and joined them together outside (taped up) and have not had an issue since.

GOOD LUCK! I know how frustrating this is.
 
nctexan

nctexan

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Nov 30, 2009
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I had the DM cap service done before examining my ECU, as a precautionary deal. I'm currently throwing a Code 14 as well on my 1J. I opened the ECU and it looks like caps were replaced as none are leaking, but it looks like there was a leaking one that caused some damage to my ECU. I know this pic isnt perfect but I'm thinking that this may be the cause of the code 14. Any thoughts, opinion?

p1695269_1.jpg


p1695269_2.jpg
 
Travis89turbo

Travis89turbo

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Mine has a little black stuff on that same cap. But its not as bad as yours I can see copper in the pic, and when that cap went out on mine the car would run it would just be hella rich. I ordered an igniter Jus to eliminate that as a possible problem. Should be here next couple days I'll let ya kno.
 
nctexan

nctexan

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Travis89turbo;1695479 said:
Mine has a little black stuff on that same cap. But its not as bad as yours I can see copper in the pic, and when that cap went out on mine the car would run it would just be hella rich. I ordered an igniter Jus to eliminate that as a possible problem. Should be here next couple days I'll let ya kno.
Click to expand...

Ok, sweet. I was going to send the ECU back to DM and see if they could do anything with it, I'm trying to find out if they test the ECU's they do the cap service on before they send them back to ya. My car runs very, very rich at idle and then if I give it gas it starts breaking up, of course I have the code 14 as well...
 
nctexan

nctexan

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JonoTurbo;1693531 said:
The igniter rarely goes bad, it probably is still the ECU. You should replace all the caps in it, even if you can't see the caps leaking they can still be bad. Also check the board around them carefully for damage. I had replaced all the caps in one ECU but it still didn't work because the acid from the cap had ruined a nearby connection.
Click to expand...

So you just tossed it and went with an EMS ECU or what?
 
JonoTurbo

JonoTurbo

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nctexan;1695535 said:
So you just tossed it and went with an EMS ECU or what?
Click to expand...

I was able to fix that one by redoing the connection with new solder. I've only run into one I couldn't fix so far, and that was because a good amount of the board had been destroyed.

As for the pic of your ECU, I would check the traces and the solder joints in that area. Also, I believe DM's service replaces all the caps in the ECU, but double check to make sure none of your caps are the original Nichicon ones.
 
nctexan

nctexan

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I work at a company that does downhole tracing and logging so we have a board shop in house. I gave my ECU to one of my techs and holy shit was it torn up under microscope, like, horrible. He did some serious soldering and used wires to jump over damaged sections. I plugged it back in and the car runs much, much leaner now at idle, more smoothly. But when I give it gas it still studders and breaks up, and I still get the Code 14. Do you have or know anybody who has an extra stock M/T 1J ECU lying around that I could use to troubleshoot with??

---------- Post added at 08:48 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:47 AM ----------
Travis89turbo;1695479 said:
Mine has a little black stuff on that same cap. But its not as bad as yours I can see copper in the pic, and when that cap went out on mine the car would run it would just be hella rich. I ordered an igniter Jus to eliminate that as a possible problem. Should be here next couple days I'll let ya kno.
Click to expand...

Get that ignitor in yet Travis?
 
Travis89turbo

Travis89turbo

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Sep 21, 2010
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That check connector looks like a factory part and 1j specific at that. Doubt u could find one. To check my Igf voltage I Jus cut a tiny hole in the insulation and check it with volt meter. Had 5v which is in limits. If you would like ill sell you the igniter I Jus bought for 65 shipped. That's really the only way to test them. I found a stock jz ecu for 300 I'm gonna see of that fixes it. If not ill te sale it also. But chances are that's where the problem lies.

As for the stand alone. I'm quite excited about that aem pnp. I was gonna go with the EMS stinger but for the price difference I think the aem will be a better ecu overall! But I'm not gonna go with a full standalone till I have supporting fuel mods so I only have to get dyno tuned once!
 
nctexan

nctexan

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It helps if your number 1 spark plug connector is actually connected :) Code disappeared immediately and it runs super smooth!! So now it's just the tachometer and the water pressure gauges I need to get working...
 
Travis89turbo

Travis89turbo

New Member
Sep 21, 2010
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Utah
nctexan;1698087 said:
It helps if your number 1 spark plug connector is actually connected :) Code disappeared immediately and it runs super smooth!! So now it's just the tachometer and the water pressure gauges I need to get working...
Click to expand...

It wasn't connected at all or just the clip was broken?
 
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