1JZ Build..HKS...Greddy..ACT..Chrome..You Might Like It.Dont Hate :)

[IBoughtASupra]

Just placed my order at SP. Can't wait until it gets here. I forgot to polish my waterneck, so I will be doing that. Does anyone know the thread on an AEM Engine Temp Sensor? I want to get my water neck tapped for it and the bumps for the water return lines grinded down before polishing it.

 

[Enraged]

since AEM simply rebrands other sensors (and jacks the price), it will likely be 1/8" NPT like most water temp sensors.

also, are you grinding down/eliminating the turbo coolant lines? if so you may want to consider looping the line (like NAs) to keep the water pump from cavitating.

 

[IBoughtASupra]

The water pump and looping the lines issue is a problem on the 7Ms, it is why DriftMotion makes that line. The 2JZ and 1JZ run the return lines on top and the feed comes from the rear housing of the water pump, so you just block the lines up top however you want and that's it. The bottom you have to do the same.

I called Aaron and asked him and he said to pinch the outlet on the water pump and weld it shut and I can remove the lines on the top and weld them closed as well. I also looked Aaron on the forums and saw many high 2JZ build from Titan on SupraForums and they all are done that way. I know Aaron never gives anyone shit advice though.

Maybe IJ can chime in here. I am not ignoring what you are saying as it is no problem to weld an -AN fitting to the outlet on the water pump and the water neck and have a braided hose run to each, which will look extremely neat.

I also read the manual for the Engine Temperature gauge for the AEM and it is a 1/8 NPT thread sensor. Here is the link I was looking at:
http://www.lexusclub.co.uk/singleturbo.htm

I do believe I will be looping it just because it is easy and the issues of a cavitating water pump can cause...

 

[IJ.]

I'd have to see a flow diagram for the 1J before offering an opinion.

 

[IBoughtASupra]

Here you go Ian. Blocks are the same design except the 2JZ iw a half inch taller.

Coolant Flow
http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff47/todd_williams/dump/2jcooling.jpg


Here is the piece on the water pump we are talking about.
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l13/SW203SGTE/2008_08070014.jpg

 

[IJ.]

How did Toyota do the bypass on the NA Jz's?

 

[Nick M]

You can still see the factory crosshatch. The bore is in excellent shape, no ridge at the top either.

I have never seen a ridge on a Toyota. I have seen the cross hatch gone, but the engine also had over 200k on it.

 

[IBoughtASupra]

I have never seen a ridge on a Toyota. I have seen the cross hatch gone, but the engine also had over 200k on it.

Ever opened one after seeing someone using water in their engine's cooling system? You will definitely find a ridge then.

 

[IBoughtASupra]

I have no clue how they did the bypass on the NA's but don't the NA's use a different pump?

Here is the picture of the GE pump:

It does not have the port that the GTE Pump has.

 

[Nick M]

Ever opened one after seeing someone using water in their engine's cooling system? You will definitely find a ridge then.

The only reason to open them is very high miles or damage. Toyota uses low tension rings leading to the lack of ridges.

By the way, nice ride. It looks good so far.

 

[gurley0916]

On my 2j we eliminated the water ports on my neck and I also welded up the port coming off the pump. Haven't had any problems in 110 degree summers so I assuming that there is no cavitation with my system. Been that way for a good 8 months now.

 

[IBoughtASupra]

The only reason to open them is very high miles or damage. Toyota uses low tension rings leading to the lack of ridges.

By the way, nice ride. It looks good so far.

Thanks. This project just hit 12,000 with my order last night. Those parts that bring those costs are not pictured yet.....

 

[IBoughtASupra]

On my 2j we eliminated the water ports on my neck and I also welded up the port coming off the pump. Haven't had any problems in 110 degree summers so I assuming that there is no cavitation with my system. Been that way for a good 8 months now.

Hmm, sounds good. It doesn't get that hot in NY so it looks like I will be doing that. I will be welding the port shut as well since I am not a fan of the hose with a bolt stuck in it held in with a hose clamp thing.

 

[Nick M]

The only reason to open them is very high miles or damage. Toyota uses low tension rings leading to the lack of ridges.

That and the retarded hard Toyota engine blocks.

---------- Post added at 01:53 AM ---------- Previous post was at 01:52 AM ----------

Thanks. This project just hit 12,000 with my order last night.

Is that including the shell?

 

[IBoughtASupra]

Yes, I know. It is why I like the iron blocks over the aluminum blocks.

I hope I get to fill the engine bay and seal up the little holes and prep it for the engine and then strip an reloom the engine harness.

 

[IBoughtASupra]

Today I got to clean the engine bay and grind down the welding, I also sanded it as well. Tomorrow I am going to put it in the shop and clean it with brake cleaner and start the filling, prime and paint.

I will also cut the hole to pass the harness through the firewall so it doesn't run along the firewall, thanks for the tip Gurley. I am also going to start removing the old stock 1JZ intercooler and the power steering cooler as well. I will be running a different power steering cooler on the driver side to eliminate those two lines on the passenger side chassis.

I will be relocating the battery to the trunk when I install a SIMPLE stereo system. I will be putting a distribution block for both ground and positive in the engine bay in a nice enclosed box.

 

[gurley0916]

Here is an awesome battery box that you can use. Is the same one I got and its a killer deal for the box with hardware included. Anything comparable was 90+ that I could find almost a year ago. Its tall but can be trimmed if you have a targa like I do.
http://www.overstock.com/Home-Garden/Single-Battery-Box/3465342/product.html

Also best place I found cheap wire is a
https://weldingsupply.securesites.com/cgi-bin/einstein.pl?Next::1:UNDEF:OR:terms:A#A2

I bought the #2 thinking it was 2 gauge but it is not its smaller so I would go with #1 or the 1/0 which will be close to a two gauge. Even though I don't have a problem with voltage at all in my car with the #2 and I have a system in the car, Probably cause its just connected only to the starter and Alternator. While my amp has a separate line from the battery. bought 30ft and did a positive and a ground run to the engine bay from the battery so that it has hardly any resistance. I would order at least 40ft as mine was very tight to do with that length. The wire is very thin strand and flexible and a hell of a lot cheaper than audio wire plus has a better coating.

 

[IBoughtASupra]

Here is an awesome battery box that you can use. Is the same one I got and its a killer deal for the box with hardware included. Anything comparable was 90+ that I could find almost a year ago. Its tall but can be trimmed if you have a targa like I do.
http://www.overstock.com/Home-Garden/Single-Battery-Box/3465342/product.html

Also best place I found cheap wire is a I bought the #2 thinking it was 2 gauge but it is not its smaller so I would go with #1 or the 1/0 which will be close to a two gauge. Even though I don't have a problem with voltage at all in my car with the #2 and I have a system in the car, Probably cause its just connected only to the starter and Alternator. While my amp has a separate line from the battery. bought 30ft and did a positive and a ground run to the engine bay from the battery so that it has hardly any resistance. I would order at least 40ft as mine was very tight to do with that length. The wire is very thin strand and flexible and a hell of a lot cheaper than audio wire plus has a better coating.

Nice. I am going to take a look at it.

 

[oldsking]

Looking good! Geez I wish i had cut the whole to run my harness through my firewall rather then across in the stock location...... There is always the next motor swap haha

 

[IBoughtASupra]

Looking good! Geez I wish i had cut the whole to run my harness through my firewall rather then across in the stock location...... There is always the next motor swap haha

Thanks, I will be cutting the hole for the harness to pass through tomorrow.

I am going to get 40ft of 1 Gauge wire and do both terminals to the engine bay running through the cabin under the carpet.

I want to make this car a street, show and reliable car all at the same time. Combining all of those takes time, money, greasy fingers, dirty clothes and cuts on your hands.

I am hoping to get the engine bay tomorrow. I will only fill the radiator support tomorrow because I don't want it to get scratched when the engine will be going in. If anyone is wondering, I don't put in the engine and gearbox at once. The slowest part of tomorrow will be the drying of the engine bay after I fill it, I won't have a lot of sanding since I did grind the spots super smooth. I prepped the bay with a grinder and used 180 grit sand paper to get all the burnt old paint off and rough the old paint to remove the clear coat. Someone who did this swap, did it neat and painted the engine bay before me but there are a few runs I saw, so I will be taking car of those too.

More packages are supposed to come this week and I will post more pictures of the intake, throttle body and valve covers that were polished.