1JZ Build..HKS...Greddy..ACT..Chrome..You Might Like It.Dont Hate :)
- Thread starter IBoughtASupra
- Start date
Yeah do what Ian says. I use a 45 off my turbo so it points right at the block "downhill".
Same way I ran dustins
---------- Post added at 05:11 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:10 PM ----------
Iill have Steven take a photo of it
Same way I ran dustins
---------- Post added at 05:11 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:10 PM ----------
Iill have Steven take a photo of it
LOL Steve. I will look into the 6262 once I get some funds.
I will do that, will see what Aaron says tomorrow about the turbo.
I will do that, will see what Aaron says tomorrow about the turbo.
FIX THE DRAIN FIRST....IBoughtASupra;1745835 said:
FUCK this is frustrating, there may be NOTHING wrong with the Turbo.. :nono:
IJ.;1745838 said:
Please don't use that kind of language here mister.
I ran the car with the turbo off, flipped the lines so the 45 degree would be off the turbo and lastly elevated it above the engine so the oil line was straight as possible.
When I started the car, it started to approach operating temperature and there was oil dripping from the rear of the cartridge.
That is why I am saying the turbo is no good. I went through everything before checking the turbo after PMing Albert last night.
Ian, Is that a good enough test or should I mount inside the turbine housing again to have exhaust fumes spinning the turbine wheel?
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Update,
So since my turbo went bad and started to leak, I returned it to DriftMotion and Aaron had it rebuilt. I installed it and fixed the line so now it does go downward.
I also had the brackets drilled to fit my Sparco Torino seats and they fit nicely in the car, a good height and the sliders are a really nice addition to help with comfort.
My fan clutch was bad so I went and got it changed. Installed it and it works now but I still have an old one, I rebuilt it with 20,000 weight oil, tried it again, and it was still bad, so that's going back to DriftMotion as well. I have a aftermarket one and it works for me.
I had a ticking noise on the clutch and it turns out the previous owner forgot two of the smallest washers on the hub. I installed it and did it wrong last night. This morning we dropped the gearbox again and then set it correctly. I also replaced the slave cylinder since the rubber got in the way when I was installing the old one and the ear broke on it. It's good now. Thanks Poodles, Ian and Dan.
I registered the car and drove it 80 miles today. Good and bad news.
Good news, it drove nicely, suspension, even for stock springs, right really nicely and smooth. The comfort of the Sparco Torino seats are really good.
Problem 1: the timing belt is whipping in the cover again! WTF!? This is the fourth time I will have to set this things. I have an HKS belt, HKS Cams, HKS cam gears and a new Tensioner. I lined up all the marks for the cam gears and crank, installed belt, made sure it was tight on the side WITHOUT the tensioner (Driver Side) and then I released the pin so the tensioner can move up the pulley and tension the belt. I don't know what else I should do and what can be the problem.
Maybe the "new tensioner" I got is bad? I still have the old timing belt that came off the motor and Tensioner. Maybe I should try that? I did verify the part number on the HKS Timing belt is a 1JZ belt number.
Problem 2: When I bought the car from Patrick, a SupraMania member here, he told me he changed the gear oil and used some "Ford Additive" in the oil. I had the car up on the lift after I bought it and the back tires were flat, no thread whatsoever. When I was on the highway, on the throttle you would hear and feel a vibration. I come off the throttle, vibration goes away. In gear off throttle, noise is not there. Out of gear, in neutral, no noise. Noise is present along with a vibration when you are accelerating and when you get on the throttle after cruising lightly.
I rebuilt the gearbox with all new bearings and synchros and also checked that the rear lock nut on the fifth gear was tighten properly. The vibration is more present in fourth gear. Transmission has oil since I refilled it today with Redline MT90 and the speedometer does shake up and down which is indicates low gear oil.
All lights, front and rear wipers and gadgets on the inside work well even my third brake light without any burnt LEDs.
So, it was a so so day. Any tips on the issues I have?
So since my turbo went bad and started to leak, I returned it to DriftMotion and Aaron had it rebuilt. I installed it and fixed the line so now it does go downward.
I also had the brackets drilled to fit my Sparco Torino seats and they fit nicely in the car, a good height and the sliders are a really nice addition to help with comfort.
My fan clutch was bad so I went and got it changed. Installed it and it works now but I still have an old one, I rebuilt it with 20,000 weight oil, tried it again, and it was still bad, so that's going back to DriftMotion as well. I have a aftermarket one and it works for me.
I had a ticking noise on the clutch and it turns out the previous owner forgot two of the smallest washers on the hub. I installed it and did it wrong last night. This morning we dropped the gearbox again and then set it correctly. I also replaced the slave cylinder since the rubber got in the way when I was installing the old one and the ear broke on it. It's good now. Thanks Poodles, Ian and Dan.
I registered the car and drove it 80 miles today. Good and bad news.
Good news, it drove nicely, suspension, even for stock springs, right really nicely and smooth. The comfort of the Sparco Torino seats are really good.
Problem 1: the timing belt is whipping in the cover again! WTF!? This is the fourth time I will have to set this things. I have an HKS belt, HKS Cams, HKS cam gears and a new Tensioner. I lined up all the marks for the cam gears and crank, installed belt, made sure it was tight on the side WITHOUT the tensioner (Driver Side) and then I released the pin so the tensioner can move up the pulley and tension the belt. I don't know what else I should do and what can be the problem.
Maybe the "new tensioner" I got is bad? I still have the old timing belt that came off the motor and Tensioner. Maybe I should try that? I did verify the part number on the HKS Timing belt is a 1JZ belt number.
Problem 2: When I bought the car from Patrick, a SupraMania member here, he told me he changed the gear oil and used some "Ford Additive" in the oil. I had the car up on the lift after I bought it and the back tires were flat, no thread whatsoever. When I was on the highway, on the throttle you would hear and feel a vibration. I come off the throttle, vibration goes away. In gear off throttle, noise is not there. Out of gear, in neutral, no noise. Noise is present along with a vibration when you are accelerating and when you get on the throttle after cruising lightly.
I rebuilt the gearbox with all new bearings and synchros and also checked that the rear lock nut on the fifth gear was tighten properly. The vibration is more present in fourth gear. Transmission has oil since I refilled it today with Redline MT90 and the speedometer does shake up and down which is indicates low gear oil.
All lights, front and rear wipers and gadgets on the inside work well even my third brake light without any burnt LEDs.
So, it was a so so day. Any tips on the issues I have?
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yongai27;1757916 said:
I didn't say that was the problem, the tires were bald while the front had a lot of thread, looked new. So I am assuming someone liked burnouts and the diff went with it. Why would you add an additive, it should be fine without it.
The additive is required in a clutch style LSD unless you want chattering and premature wear.
Toyota used the same stupid crush sleeve on the pinion to apply preload to the bearings. While it's fast and easy to install at the factory, it very quickly loses the preload and eventually leads to full differential destruction (especially if you're abusing it with more power/torque). My old truck with 31" tires, 4.10 gears, and low range transfer case beat the snot out the of the diff. Funny, I never noticed there was damage until one of the broken teeth from the pinion got up between the 2 pinion bearings and was rubbing on the crush sleeve. Sheered off 3 or 4 teeth from the pinion and spun one of the pinion bearings in the housing enough that it wasn't rebuildable (ouch, no core refund for me )
Anyway, they make sold spacers with shims to get the preload correct and it stays correct when it's done. Diffs take a lot of abuse, they usually don't have their oil replaced, they might leak a little, and they don't hold a lot of oil to begin with. It's a wonder they last as long as they do...
Toyota used the same stupid crush sleeve on the pinion to apply preload to the bearings. While it's fast and easy to install at the factory, it very quickly loses the preload and eventually leads to full differential destruction (especially if you're abusing it with more power/torque). My old truck with 31" tires, 4.10 gears, and low range transfer case beat the snot out the of the diff. Funny, I never noticed there was damage until one of the broken teeth from the pinion got up between the 2 pinion bearings and was rubbing on the crush sleeve. Sheered off 3 or 4 teeth from the pinion and spun one of the pinion bearings in the housing enough that it wasn't rebuildable (ouch, no core refund for me
)Anyway, they make sold spacers with shims to get the preload correct and it stays correct when it's done. Diffs take a lot of abuse, they usually don't have their oil replaced, they might leak a little, and they don't hold a lot of oil to begin with. It's a wonder they last as long as they do...
So Poodles, you think it's the diff making the noise?
Ian said to check that the U joints are in phase and the carrier bearing so I will check all of those too.
Ian said to check that the U joints are in phase and the carrier bearing so I will check all of those too.
Poodles;1758330 said:It's possible, up to you to track the noise down
Cool. If it makes it any easier, I can feel it more in fourth.
Ok, so I changed out my HKS timing belt and went to a Gates Izusu timing belt which everyone uses and the noise went away....*Knock On Wood.*
Next problem, I have a serious vibration when the car is driven for a while. After a few miles, a vibration comes from the drivetrain. After putting the car on the lift and driving it in fourth gear, there was a noise coming from the diff when I was under the car. It was a noise that was repetitive as the car was in gear and sounded like when you are hitting two gears together. So I am guessing, too much backlash?
It never ends....
Next problem, I have a serious vibration when the car is driven for a while. After a few miles, a vibration comes from the drivetrain. After putting the car on the lift and driving it in fourth gear, there was a noise coming from the diff when I was under the car. It was a noise that was repetitive as the car was in gear and sounded like when you are hitting two gears together. So I am guessing, too much backlash?
It never ends....
Update...
The vibration problem was due to me having a wrong transmission bracket. I took the one that the car came with, tossed it aside and just picked up another one I had. It caused the transmission to be tilted to the side since you had to push the transmission to the side to line up the hole on the bracket to the body.
I changed out the mount AND bracket and that solved the noise.
Next I had the clutch cylinder loosing pressure, causing my shifts to be bad. I replaced it with a Centric unit and all seemed fine. I was driving yesterday and the pedal refused to go down more than half way. I pressed it harder with my foot and it went to the floor. Took it around the block and lost all pedal pressure!
Pulled out the cylinder and the piston came out but the spring and valve on its end were stuck in the cylinder and refuses to come out. Just great, defective parts.
Keep in mind, Centric has their performance division which is known as Stop Tech Brakes which are seen on a lot of MKIV, so they aren't some cheap EBay company.
I ordered a new Toyota cylinder and will warranty this old on and keep it as a spare.
I also hooked up my QSV valve and have it working just based off the wastegate spring pressure. I will add the MAC solenoid I have after I put the AEM in over the Winter but man, I have 9lbs on this 67MM by 3200RPM and that's with the QSV opening at 5PSI, not 9LBS, so I loose the full effect at 5lbs but jeez, it pulls.
I have to announce the death of my stock Toyota clutch.
Just because, Hopefully it becomes MKIVs one day....
The vibration problem was due to me having a wrong transmission bracket. I took the one that the car came with, tossed it aside and just picked up another one I had. It caused the transmission to be tilted to the side since you had to push the transmission to the side to line up the hole on the bracket to the body.
I changed out the mount AND bracket and that solved the noise.
Next I had the clutch cylinder loosing pressure, causing my shifts to be bad. I replaced it with a Centric unit and all seemed fine. I was driving yesterday and the pedal refused to go down more than half way. I pressed it harder with my foot and it went to the floor. Took it around the block and lost all pedal pressure!
Pulled out the cylinder and the piston came out but the spring and valve on its end were stuck in the cylinder and refuses to come out. Just great, defective parts.
Keep in mind, Centric has their performance division which is known as Stop Tech Brakes which are seen on a lot of MKIV, so they aren't some cheap EBay company.
I ordered a new Toyota cylinder and will warranty this old on and keep it as a spare.
I also hooked up my QSV valve and have it working just based off the wastegate spring pressure. I will add the MAC solenoid I have after I put the AEM in over the Winter but man, I have 9lbs on this 67MM by 3200RPM and that's with the QSV opening at 5PSI, not 9LBS, so I loose the full effect at 5lbs but jeez, it pulls.
I have to announce the death of my stock Toyota clutch.
Just because, Hopefully it becomes MKIVs one day....
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Albert;1773134 said:
No douche. It's called being smart so when I have to put the solenoid in, I can relocate it easily WITHOUT making new lines.
Pffff, where is your QSV?
